Day 14 - 17 (22-Dec-15 through 25-Dec-15) Inca Trail to Machu Picchu

Our pickup from the hotel was scheduled for 05:30 hrs and from the moment we got up at 04:45 hrs I was not feeling entirely well. However, as there was no possibility of postponing the hike, we completed packing of rucksacks, duffle bags and luggage to be left behind, and then sat eagerly awaiting the arrival of Ronny. Simon was equally eager to get going, although somewhat apprehensive about what was to come, being very aware of Quentin´s idea of "fun".

While driving through Cuzco to pick up our porters and cooks (9 in total), we began to wonder whether El Niño had finally caught up with us; nothing but grey skies and drizzle everywhere we went. After a drive of some 2.5 hrs we arrived at the trailhead near Piskacucho (km 82), where we were required to produce our passports for the formal registration process. Following some last minute adjustments to backpacks and boots, we took our first strides on the Trail at 08:00 hrs sharp. Today would be an easy 12 km hike to camp 1 at Wayllabamba, with a lunch stop at Llactapata around the 7 km point. Although I progressively felt worse as the morning wore on, I thoroughly enjoyed the walk and the various stops at Inca sites along the way. Around 12 o´clock we reached our appointed lunch stop, where the porters had already erected the mess tent and awaited us with hot water to wash hands and faces prior to tucking into the sumptuous feast they had prepared.

I remember taking off my shoes and washing my hands, and I recall taking some pills to try and stem the effects of what was now very evidently a case of food poisoning. Anything after that is pure speculation on my part as I sort of collapsed on the ground outside the tent, prior to being moved into a Bethlehem-like mud hut and wrapped in warm clothes inside a sleeping bag, complete with hot water bottle. 2 Hrs later and our temporary camp was packed up to allow the porters to transport our belongings to our overnight camp 5 km down the track. As I was still quite adamant that I could not, and should not, move, I was allowed to stay put, with my newfound friends - cats, kittens, dogs, chicks, ducks, flees and dead fish. My collapse prompted the boys to reevaluate the situation and consider possible options to get me to Camp 1 (one of which was tying me on a mule!), or organizing a medivac back to Cuzco for hospital treatment. At this point I was quite adamant that all these solutions were possible, but over my dead body - the burial of which Simon was already planning....

Once I´d finally managed to convince the boys and our guide Ronny that no further forward movement could be expected of me today, instructions were sent out to bring our poor porters back from Camp 1. The decision was made to instead spend the night at the half-way house to see if I could recover by early morning, or if not have two porters assigned to carry me out, accompanied by Quentin (something I still did not agree with). I realised I should at least attempt to drink some liquids, so made efforts to do so, but with little success of staying upright long enough to take more than a few sips. Around 6 o´clock, following yet another bullying session to make me imbibe liquids, my stomach stirred and I was compelled to heave my body out of the door into the pouring rain to vomit the noxious contents of my stomach - including the stomach lining it seemed - all over the farm yard. From that moment on I felt instantly better. If only I´d known projectile wretching would solve all ails........ 

With not only I, but also the boys, hugely relieved, dinner was served. For me this meant trying to sip a bowl of chicken soup, while the boys consumed the farmyard - ducklings included. However, Ronny was still very pessimistic of our chances of making up for lost time and ground, given Day 2 under normal circumstances is considered by far the hardest, involving a 1200m ascent at altitude, topping out at 4200m. We would now need to ascend 1600m, and cover 14 km to catch up with other trekkers on the trail. He confided to Simon and Quentin this would be a monumental achievement for people half our age, that were fully fit. For a `geriatric` to do so on an empty stomach seemed to him highly improbable. However, whilst wallowing in the mud hut, I resolved to prove Ronny that this rooster (literal translation of De Haan) was nonetheless no chicken, and show him the TRUE meaning of Dutch Courage.

The night´s sleep was relatively comfortable, despite the fact we were sleeping in a tent (which, as some of you may know, is not my preferred abode, given the cold claustrophobic conditions within). To make up for lost time we were awoken with hot Coca tea at the ungodly time of 04:30hrs, and were required to be "on the road" by 05:30hrs in order to reach Camp 1 and join the other trekkers before they headed off for the 4200m high pass at Warmy Wañusca. Feeling hugely improved following yesterday´s bout of food poisoning, but still somewhat delicate and unable to eat, breakfast for me was a rather modest affair - a single biscuit. I did see the boys, however, dig in to pancakes, breads and all sorts of other goodies that had been prepared by Justin our chef. Despite my lack of food, and thanks in part to the fact that Quentin carried nearly all my belongings and water from my backpack (and Simon took my poncho), we managed a slow but steady pace, reaching Camp 1 at 3000m by 06:30hrs, ascending 300m in the  process. The next stage to the camp site situated at Ayapata at 3300m was brutal, but we managed again to maintain a constant steady pace and kept up with other groups. Following a short break we proceeded onto the next intermediate stop at Llulluchapampa at 3750m. By this time the body was running on fumes, and so frequent, but short, recovery stops were required. Nonetheless, we arrived at Llulluchapampa in good time, with the sun beating down to warm us in the ever increasing rarified air. 

At this point Ronny started to believe we might actually complete the trek over to Paqaymayo, and eagerly paced the final push towards Warmy Wañusca, offering constant words of encouragement. On finally reaching the saddle I don´t know who was more elated, Ronny or us! We sat there for about 20 minutes basking in the sun and our achievement, and making a conscious effort to take in the glorious surroundings. We then headed off for the steep 600m descent to Paqaymayo and a warm cup of tea, arriving at the camp site by 15:00hrs. Tea and dinner was a much more relaxed affair, with everyone relishing the prospect of completing the hike to Machu Picchu together, and fulfilling a life-long dream.

The start to Day 3 was much less stressful, with hot Coca tea brought to our tents at 05:30hrs, with everything packed by 06:00hrs. Following a sumptuous breakfast we commenced hiking at 06:30hrs, heading for the first pass of the day at Qochapata (3900m), just 2km from the camp site. On route we stopped at another Inca site at Runkurakay, which was used as a relay station for Inca runners carrying messages from Cuzco to the corners of the empire. As runners reached the pass at Warmy Wanusca, they would alert the next runner resting at Runkurakay by blowing through a sea shell horn. On arrival at the relay station he would handover the message, encoded in knots on lengths of different coloured dyed wool, to the next runner, who would ferry the message along the Inca Trial to the next relay station. On reaching Qochapata we were afforded spectacular views of the next valley, and snow covered mountains in the far distance. Following a brief pit stop we headed downhill to vist the next Inca site, a well preserved town at Sayaqmarka (3600m), afterwhich we headed for morning break at Concha Marca (3530m). Some trekking groups chose to take an early lunch here, but we elected to continue hiking over the next pass at 3670m, with the Inca Trial passing through a manmade tunnel. The porters and chef had already passed us early in the day, and already had the mess tent erected and a 3-course meal waiting for us on arrival at Phuyupatamarka camp site (3600m). We shared the camp site with a number of llamas, and once the fogged cleared we were afforded a good view of Cerro Machu Picchu, the mountain shielding the famous Inca temple complex from outside eyes until 1911. We could also see the gazebo erected on the summit to shelter hikers that climb the mountain for aerial views of Machu Picchu on the far side of the mountain. 

The camp site at Phuyuptamarka also sits above another large Inca complex that features a long chain of Inca baths, as well as more concave terraces, affording Inca pilgrims the opportunity to cleanse the bodies before completing their journey to Macchu Pichu. We visited the site after lunch, and then continued on the Inca Trial, through pouring rain, to the last stop of the day at Winay Wayna, passing through more Inca manmade tunnels along the way. We also visited the famous Inca terraces at Inti Pata etched into the mountainside just above the final camp site. However, on arrival, we found ourselves completely fogged in, obscuring views of the Urubamba valley and river, nestled in a huge mountainous landscape in the background. Disheartened, we trudged into camp at 15:30hrs, soaked to the skin, and conscious of the fact that after three days of strenuous hiking, our bodies reeked! Once the tents were erected and contents of backpacks and duffle bags heaved inside Simon and I opted to take a nap. However, the fog had now cleared and so Quentin elected instead to hike back up to Inti Pata to capture photos of the breathtaking scenery unfolding before us. On his return he braved a wash standing in a sink filled with freezing glacial runoff - Burrrr.

Before tea at 17:30hrs Ronny took us on a short 10 minute excursion to the largest Inca complex we have yet seen. The immensity took us completely by surprise, with terraces extending over a wide arc across the steep mountain, and at least 500ft vertically, and connected via a number of very vertiginous stairways. What surprised us even more is the fact that this site was discovered purely by accident in 1942; fully 30 years after Hiram Bingham's discovery of Machu Picchu. But perhaps the greatest surprise is the realisation that this Inca complex, which many archaeologists believe was a vast agricultural laboratory  to bioengineer hardy varieties of fruit, cereals and root vegetables that could grow in the cold and rarefied climate at high elevations, has been only partially uncovered. The terraces in fact extend right down to the Rio Urubamba, some 1800ft below, allowing the Incas to conduct experiments in a wide range of microclimates.

Suitably impressed we retired to the mess tent, which Astrid had covered with Christmas decorations. She had also brought with her, all the way from Australia, presents for the porters to enjoy. Just before dinner we went back outside to witness an amazing and very rate sight - a full moon rising into a cloudless night, illuminating a snow-covered mountain landscape. Alas, a full moon coinciding with Christmas is not something that will happen again during our lifetimes, and so we continued to gaze upon the moonrise for a full half hour. Thankfully, we were able to capture some beautiful photos of this unique and special moment. We then sat down to a 4-course Xmas dinner, donning Santa hats to properly acknowledge and respect festive traditions. If only we had some wine!

The 4th and final day of the trek was a long one, starting with a rude awakening at 02:50hrs by the porters with the usual offering of Coca tea. It was also a miserable start, given it had been raining non-stop since about 22:00hrs the night before. The final leg of the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu is a short 4km only, with access to the trail barred by a gate that does not open until 05:30hrs. We nonetheless opted for a much earlier start in order to be at the front of the queue that typically starts to form at the gate from 03:30hrs onwards. Being first kept delays incurred while each trekker's paperwork is processed by park rangers manning the gate to a minimum, and also ensured our ensuing rush to reach the Sun Gate to witness sun rise over the Machu Picchu complex would not be hindered by mere 'pedestrians'. We therefore gulped down our tea, dressed suitably to cope with the torrential downpour, and rushed for the gate, arriving at 03:15hrs in 2nd place. We then spent the next 2.25hrs 'twiddling our thumbs' waiting for the park rangers to arrive. Thankfully, they did so on time, and we found ourselves almost running along the Inca Trail towards the Sun Gate by 05:35hrs, covering the last 4km over slippery rock, and in some places over very step terrain, in just over 50 mins, with only 4 trekkers out of the 200+ total reaching the site before us. And what a view!

From the Sun Gate it was not possible initially to look down on Machu Picchu, as the site and much of the valley below it was hidden below a sheet of low lying cloud, as if a table cloth had been suspended in mid air. However, within 10 minutes the cloud started to dissipate, slowly revealing the many temples, terraces, grain stores, water towers and houses erected across the mountain top plateau. During the many, many, months planning this trip, I had often wondered how I would react to the first sighting of Machu Picchu. Anticipation of this first encounter had also intensified greatly during the 4-day hike, almost dominating every thought, conscious and subconscious, and leading to much sleeplessness during the last two nights in particular. However, none of this prepared me for what actually happened, as I was almost overwhelmed with elation, and at the same time a great sense of relief that we were not to be denied this vista by inclement weather. We all simply sat there in silence, stunned by what we saw, and for a fleeting moment at least, were able to envisage the emotions that would have coursed through Hiram Bingham when he became the first non-Inca to view this marvel of the New World.

Suitably impressed (indelibly so), we slowly descended the 2km path from the Sun Gate to the main complex. During the descent the site was again engulfed in fog. On arrival however, the fog once again rolled back. We then spent the next 2 hours with our guide touring the sight and learning about its many secrets, rituals, engineering marvels, architectural layout and religious significance. At 09:40hrs Simon and Quentin headed for Cerro Machu Pichu, while I elected to stay behind to capture more photos of this vast complex. The boys reached the summit at 3062m by 11:05hrs, but found themselves engulfed in cloud and heavy rain, unable to see more than 15m; let alone the 632m back down to the temple complex. They hung around for nearly 30mins. waiting for the clouds to clear, but with no luck. However, as they started the long descent down to the bus stop 690m below, the skies suddenly cleared, and so from a narrow ledge just 15m below the summit they managed to gaze down on Machu Picchu almost immediately under them, capturing some of the best photos of the complex and surrounding mountains.

With missions accomplished we met at the bus stop shortly before 13:00hrs and caught the next bus down to Machu Picchu town at 2000m, arriving 13:30hrs. We then bade farewell to our guide Ronny, and headed to a local restaurant overlooking the mighty Rio Urubamba, which owing to the heavy rains of the past week, was a deafening roar as it raged over grade IV rapids alongside the town. With calorie expenditure far exceeding calorie intake during the 4-day hike to Machu Picchu we opted to 'carb up', gorging on pasta dishes. We then boarded the train at 15:20hrs for the scenic train journey back to Cuzco, arriving 19:00hrs, where we were again escorted by Carlos to the same Hotel. Following a necessarily long shower the three of us convened in the Hotel lobby at 20:30hrs for the short walk back to the Plaza de Armas and a burger dinner once again at Papacho's, washed down with a few beers. Then, over a bottle of wine, we reminisced about the amazing adventures we had managed to pack in since arriving in Peru just 17 days ago - what now seems a lifetime ago.

Day 13 (21-Dec-15) Sacred Valley

After yesterday´s giddy tour of Cuzco wonders I wasn´t sure what to expect from today´s 10 hr guided tour of the Sacred Valley. Carlos, our tour guide, collected us from the hotel at 07:15 hrs. Thankfully, the weather had cleared, with sunny skies dominating the journey out of Cuzco along a narrow road, with innumerable hairpin bends cut through stunning scenery to the beautiful Rio Urumbamba Valley, known as El Valle Sagrado (The Sacred Valley). Our first major stop was the lofty Inca citadel of Pisac, situated high above the modern-day town of the same name, on a triangular plateau. The most impressive feature is the agricultural terracing, which sweeps around the south and east flanks of the mountain in huge graceful curves. Instead of steps, the terracing is joined by diagonal flights of stairs made of flagstones set into the terrace walls; thus minimising soil erosion during flash floods.

Above the terraces are cliff hugging footpaths, well defended by massive stone doorways, steep stairs and a short tunnel carved out of the rock. Topping the terraces is the sites ceremonial centre, several working water channels (aquaducts) and some precision fitted masonry in the well preserved temples. Across the Kitamayo Gorge at the back of the complex are hundreds of holes honeycombing the cliff wall. These are Inca tombs that were plundered down the centuries and are now completely off limits. The vistas across the Urumbamba Valley are truly exceptional.

Following a delicious lunch at Chinchero we continued on to Ollantaytambo, which is dominated by 2 massive Inca ruins and is the staging point for the 4-day, 3-night hike along the world famous Inca Trail to the fabled temple complex of Machu Picchu. The huge steep terraces that guard Ollantaytambo´s spectacular Inca ruins are one of the few places where the Spaniards lost a major battle. Aside to being a highly effective fortress, it also served as a temple. A finely crafted ceremonial centre is at the top of the terracing. Precisely fitted stone walls were still under construction at the time of the conquest and were never completed. The walls incorporated the largest individual stone blocks found at any Inca site, some weighing more than 800 tons. The stone was quarried from a mountainside 6 km away, high above the opposite bank of the Rio Urumbamba. Transporting huge stone blocks to the temple complex was a stupendous feat that involved carting the blocks to the riverside, then diverting the entire river around them!!! Recent experiments have indicated that it would take 160 people to pull an 80 ton rock along a horizontal surface. No one has yet been able to determine how the Incas managed to pull rocks 10x that size up a steep mountain to the temple complex; particularly given the very confined space available.

We then embarked on the 2 hr journey back to Cuzco, completing the round trip by 17:30 hrs. On arrival we did some last minute shopping for the hike to Machu Picchu before then returning to the hotel for a briefing with our guide Ronny as to what to expect during the hike along the world famous Inca Trail. During the 1 hr long session, Ronny was pumped for information and we were assured the 7 kg weight limit we´d heard about only related to the luggage we´d each be able to offload on one of the porters. Any additional luggage would have to be carried by ourselves. With the El Niño looming large on the horizon and a distinct possibility of bursting forth any day now, we decided yet more shopping would be prudent. Therefore, following the briefing and prior to a very late dinner (especially considering our early rise the next morning) we again hit the shops for yet more shopping, prior to  sitting down to a sumptuous, but fateful, final wine and carbo-loading dinner at Papacho. Astrid´s decision to opt for a healthy side salad would prove ill conceived......

Day 12 (20-Dec-15) Cusco

Thankfully, after Astrid's 50th birthday bash yesterday on board the majestic Andean Explorer, for the journey across the equally majestic Altiplano plateau from Puno to Cuzco, we had the morning off to nurse nasty hangovers :-). As such, for the first time this holiday, we allowed ourselves to sleep in beyond 07:00hrs. Following a light breakfast we left the hotel at 08:00hrs for a leisurely stroll to the Plaza de Armas, intent on the most important task of the day - Starbucks coffee. On route we stopped off at a large market, which was already a hive of activity, to load up on high energy emergency rations for the forthcoming hike to Machu Picchu, and to buy a few souvenirs for family and friends back home. On arrival in the plaza we stopped to take a few pictures of the austere-looking cathedral and colonial-style buildings surrounding the plaza, before then indulging ourselves with Venti-sized dark cherry skinny mochas - divine!

To fill time until the afternoon tour of Cuzco's Inca and colonial sites we then jumped in a taxi and headed up into the hills to visit the statue of Christo Blanco (White Christ), which is a smaller version of the world famous statue of Corcovado (Christ The Redeemer), situated in Rio de Janerio in Brazil. From this high vantage point on the outskirts of the city it is possible to obtain a panoramic view of the many densely packed suburbs that have arisen in the hills surrounding the city, with many of the buildings perched precariously on very steep terrain, and very obviously poorly constructed. This made me wonder if they wouldn't simply tumble down on top of each other like dominoes during the next major earthquake, resulting in unimaginable devastation.

We then rode the taxi back to Plaza San Blas on the outskirts of the city, which is the centre of the crafts district. The narrow cobbled streets that connect this plaza with the main plaza are lined with textile, painting, jewellery and musical instrument workshops, making and selling an amazing variety of high quality indigenous artwork. After an hour viewing, haggling and buying yet more souvenirs, we returned to the Plaza de Armas for a spot of lunch, finding a restaurant with a balcony overlooking the plaza, and affording great views of the cathedral. We then crossed to the entrance of the cathedral to meet our guide Carlos at 13:40hrs for the start of the afternoon tour.

WOW! WOW! WOW! While the outside of La Catedral appears quite drab, the interior houses a colossal treasure trove of gold and silver religious artifacts devoted to the Virgin Mary and the unique fusion of Catholicism and Inca pagan rituals practiced in this part of the world. It is also one of the worlds greatest repositories of colonial art. As was (sadly) the custom of the day, it was built over the site of the main temple of worship for the vanquished, using building blocks pilfered from the exquisite walls of the nearby Inca site of Sacsaywaman (Sexy Woman). Construction took over 2 centuries in three distinct phases, and was plagued by poor architectural design that ignored the sophisticated techniques developed by the Incas to withstand earthquakes. Building of the main central church started in 1559 and was joined Iglesia del Triunfo to the right and Iglesia de Jesus Maria to the left. El Triunfo houses a vault containing the remains of the famous Inca chronicler Garcilaso de la Vega.

Most of the huge paintings on display originate from the famous Escuela Cuzqueña (Cuzco School), noted for its blend of classical European devotional painting style with the pastel hues and iconography of indigenous Andean artists. The oldest surviving painting depicts Cuzco during the massive earthquake of 1650, with inhabitants seen parading around the plaza with a crucifix, praying for the earthquake to stop. The crucifix, known as El Señor de los Temblores (Lord of the Earthquakes) is on display in an alcove to the right El Triunfo. The original wooden alter is at the very back of the cathedral, behind the present day solid silver one. Opposite both is the magnificent intricately carved cedar choir stalls, dating from the 17th century. The glitzy gold and silver artifacts are displayed in numerous side chapels, behind huge wooden gates that originate back to the construction of the cathedral, and are in complete contrast with the austere stonework.

Amazed, we then trotted a short distance to visit Qorikancha, at one time the richest temple in the Inca empire, and arguably the world. Ashamedly, the Spanish conquistadores saw fit to pull down this "work of the devil", melt down the vast collection of gold offerings to their Inca gods into mere coins and desecrate the site by using the foundations for the colonial church and convent of Santo Domingo. Sadly, all that remains today is the masterful megalithic stonework. In Inca times, Qorikancha was literally covered with gold. The temple walls were lined with some 700 solid gold sheets, each weighing about 2 kg. There were life sized gold and silver replicas of corn cobs and solid gold alters, llamas and even babies; all looted and melted down. Qorikancha was also a highly sophisticated celestial observatory; a remarkable feat for a civilisation that had yet to discover writing, and they were the only culture in the world to define constellations of darkness as well as stars. What remains are curved 6 m high walls, comprising interlocking blocks of stone precisely fitted to ensure their survival, completely intact, through every earthquake since their construction over 550 years ago - a feat unmatched by ANY of the colonial buildings. The octagonal fountain at the centre of the site was originally covered with 55 kg of gold. Inca chambers on all sides of the courtyard were temples to the moon and stars, covered in sheets of silver, and to thunder and the rainbow.

I could have stayed here all day, but we were whisked off by bus to visit Sacsaywaman situated in the hills surrounding Cuzco, and close to Cristo Blanco. I personally did not think it possible to be more impressed than the visits to La Catedral and Qorikancha, but the immensity of the Inca ruins at Sacsaywaman overwhelms the senses; especially the realization that what remains of this religious and military Inca complex is only about 20% of the original structure. As everywhere else in the Inca empire the demise and vandalism of this grand complex was the result of Spaniard wanton destruction. Much of what was pulled down was used to build a new colonial city. What remains are the largest and most impressive megalithic walls that formed the main battlements which were simply too big for any other purpose - one of the fitted stones weighs an incredible 300 tons. It was here that the Spaniards defeated the rebellion by the last Inca, Manco, with just 50 cavalry, slaying thousands of Quecha natives that attracted swarms of Andean condors in the days that followed. In total, there are 22 three-tiered zigzag fortifications that symbolised the teeth of the puma-shaped outline of Cuzco city envisaged by the 9th Inca, Patchacutec, with Sacsaywaman positioned as the head. On a hill opposite the zigzag ramparts are the foundations of huge towers, the largest being 22 m in diameter. These were used to store water, with the huge stones fitted so precisely that no mortar was required to prevent leaks.

While wandering this astonishing archeological site, the weather deteriorated quickly, with torrential rain, accompanied by severe thunder and lightening, chasing us back into the bus. We then proceeded to visit 2 other Inca sites in the downpour, but while interesting, they paled in comparison with Qorikancha and Sacsaywaman. On the journey back to Plaza de Armas we stopped off at a textile outlet selling exquisite handmade garments from Alpaca and Vacuña wool. At last, I was able to buy Astrid a 50th birthday present!

Day 11 (19-Dec-15) Puno - Cusco

OMG!!! It’s finally here…. Didn’t think I’d ever get there, and not too sure that my physical and mental state as a quinquagenarian is anything to write home about, but there you go! We were scheduled to be collected at 07:15 for the short transfer to the train station for the journey on the famous Andean Explorer across the Altiplano to Cusco, so alarms had been set for 06:00. Again, we did not succeed in sleeping through the night, so we were already “up and running” by 05:15hrs. HAPPY BIRTHDAY TO ME!!!

 

Quentin ended yesterday’s blog entry with a cliff-hanger – the poor boy was suffering from serious stomach pains, with fluids hurling from all orifices. This galvanised me into forcing some powerful medications down his throat (blocker & antibiotics). I’d also managed to force him to eat some chicken soup and dry toast late night. These remedies, and a little TLC, seemed to do their job, as Q woke up a lot fresher this morning (and I do mean fresher!), though very weak.

Following another breakfast with our baby alpaca and some last minute packing we set off on time for the train station. I wasn’t too sure what to expect during the train journey, and had no idea about the extent of luxury that would be feted upon us. However, from the moment we boarded our carriage, it felt like we had passed through a time warp and emerged as pampered aristocrats during days of the Raj! Not only was our carriage decorated throughout with cedar wood panelling, we were each assigned our own plush lounge chair around a table covered in full dining service sets, with a chandelier dangling overhead! Departure was at 08:00hrs sharp, with morning coffee and tea served shortly thereafter.

 

Of course, it didn’t take Simon long to introduce himself to our fellow travellers in the same carriage (and by the end of the train journey to all other passengers in all other carriages). At this point Quentin and I decided we must escape the carnage that was sure to follow these lively introductions. Fortunately, our seating arrangements were not merely limited to our lounge chairs but we also had access to a bar lounge in the next carriage, as well as a viewing deck in the last carriage, so the two of us quickly headed to the bar to catch up on e-mails and make some phone calls to loved ones back home.

 

The train ride took us through some of the most stunning scenery, with mountains rising on our left, right and centre. We also passed through a number of towns, with local markets encroaching right onto the railway line. Market vendors would simply retract their tarpaulin awnings just as the diesel locomotive reached them, and would then setup shop again after the last of the carriages passed by. Whilst Quentin and I stood in the viewing carriage to witness this close shave with mass carnage, the majority of our fellow travellers decided to join us, realising this refuge was the perfect retreat to escape Simon’s attentions. We were also entertained by a music troupe playing Andean music on traditional instruments, and treated to performances by a petite dancer in local costumes.

 

Lunch was served at 12 o’clock sharp and consisted of a gourmet three course meal, washed down with a bottle of local bubbles as part of the birthday celebrations. Shortly thereafter, we passed through La Raya, situated at 4313m; the highest point on the railway track to Cusco. Here the train stopped for 15 minutes to allow passengers to alight and confront the wave of street vendors and market stall holders that open just as the train arrives. Everywhere, we were greeted like royalty and not only did I feel like the birthday girl, I also felt like a queen.

 

On leaving La Raya the landscape changed dramatically, with the “plain” Altiplano disappearing behind as we descended into a lush, verdant and highly cultivated landscape. Interestingly, all rivers that we crossed on our way to La Raya flowed opposite to the direction of travel, while thereafter, rivers flowed in the same direction as the train. The weather also changed dramatically, from sunny and dry to cloudy and wet. Clearly the terrain at La Raya formed a physical barrier between weather dominated by the Pacific Ocean to the west and weather created by the mighty Amazon Basin to the east. During the descent into Cusco, we were entertained by another group of musicians and dancers, and were even introduced to the fine art of making Pisco Sours. At around 15:00 hrs I was also treated to a very public Andean rendition of “Happy Birthday”, and was presented with a potent cocktail mix that I was supposed to suck through a straw in one go while everyone sang! All I can remember was that it was a very sweet and thick concoction that, no matter how hard I tried, I simply could not suck down quickly. We continued our journey into Cusco and arrived at the station at around 18:30, on the way encountering heavy rain downpours. We then made our way to the hotel for a quick shower followed by a visit to the Limo Restaurant in the centre of town, right next door to the unassuming cathedral. The restaurant did not disappoint, and by the time we left the place to return to our hotel, after walking through yet more rain, we were all still truly full of the experiences of the day.

 

 

Day 10 (18-Dec-15) Lake Titicaca

When we first started to plan this latest adventure 18 months ago we were unsure whether to include an excursion to Lake Titicaca. This is because many of the reviews we researched were very negative. We were thus unsure what to expect ahead of today’s trip on to the lake. Now sitting back in the hotel reflecting on the day’s visits it beggars belief that anyone could have a negative view of the spectacular panoramas that materialise as you travel across the lake, or the various friendly, colourful and very proud indigenous communities that inhabit the many islands on the lake, including floating ones.

The day started at 06:30hrs with pickup at the hotel for the short transfer to the marina. We then boarded a speed boat for an 8-hr excursion to the Islas Uros and Isla Taquile. These islands are world famous for their peaceful traditions and agrarian culture, which date to pre-Colombian times. A visit to these islands should be considered a privilege as far as I’m concerned. Just 7km east of Puno, the Islas Uros are a marvel, as much for their unique foundation, as for Uros people way of life. These islands are man-made, environmentally friendly, and created entirely from natural resources sourced locally from the lake, in a sustainable manner; a model which our own society should consider adopting. These marvels of civil engineering also float on the lake surface, a feat made possible by using buoyant totora reeds that grow abundantly in the shallows of the lake. They foundations are created from the roots, which are cut into blocks about one foot per side. Stakes are then driven into each block, and multiple blocks are then tied together by looping rope around the stakes. Three staggered layers are assembled in this manner to form a floating foundation, which owes it buoyancy to methane gas that is slowly outgassed through biogenesis. Reeds are then cut and dried and laid down to create a thick soft mat on top of the foundation, which are constantly replenished from the top as they rot from the bottom. Each island sustains a single extended family, with the entire Uros nation spread across +/- 80 islands, each of which can last 25-30 years before having to be abandoned. Partially edible also, the reeds are used to construct homes on the islands, with many now equipped with electricity from solar panels. 

 

The Eros people all speak Aymara, which along with Quechua, are the only two remaining native languages in existence. They began their unusual floating existence centuries ago in an effort to isolate themselves from the aggressive Collas and Inca nations. As the (many) photos attest, their clothes are very distinctive and imbued with vivid colours. They are also a very insular people, fiercely protective of their customs and traditions, and yet very open and friendly. While their society is not sophisticated they are nonetheless entirely self-sufficient; which is not the case for the very great majority of people in the Western World. The highlight of the trip to the Uros island was Astrid being invited to don typical women garb.

Amazed by the experience, we then headed out to Isla Taquile, a further 33km into the lake Titicaca, which is 50km wide and extends over 150km in length, and at 3809m, is the highest navigable lake in the world. Inhabited for thousands of years, Isla Taquile is a tiny 7-sq-km island with a population of about 2200 people, and is covered with terraces first constructed by the Inca. Unlike terrace systems in the Far East, which are designed to contend with high rainfall, the terraces designed by the Inca contend with the arid conditions that dominate the Altiplano, using igneous methods to trap and retain moisture. A hike to the top of this island at 4150m affords superb views of the deep ochre-coloured soil filled terraces, the intense blue of the lake and the glistening backdrop of snow-covered Cordillera Blanco on the far side of the lake. The Quechua speaking inhabitants are distinct from most of the surrounding Aymara-speaking island communities and maintain a very strong sense of group identity. They rarely marry non-Taquile people; indeed, those that do are not allowed to return to the island. Taquile has a fascinating tradition of handicrafts, which are made in accordance with a strict code that indicates your marital status, position within the community and age, with tightly woven textiles (25 stitches per inch) made using the same the same type of wooden looms used during Inca times. Women wear eye-catching outfits comprising multi-layered skirts (six during visits to Puno) and delicately embroidered blouses. Men also knit garments, including their hats and decorative waistbands, using Alpaca wool. The textiles made by the people of Taquile are considered to be amongst the best in Peru.

 

During our stay on the island we were shown how they use a local plant to make a natural detergent, which they use to clean the wool, and were shown how the weave their textiles using the wooden looms. We also sat through a number of local dances and songs, with Simon even enticed to take part. This gave him the opportunity to demonstrate his unique interpretation of the ‘Funky Chicken’, infused with spasmodic movements from ‘Menajito’, and interjected with moments of rap ‘Gangham Style’. His 2 minutes on the dance floor have left dozens of poor Taquile women in need of foot transplants and underwhelming impressions of white 50-something Caucasians convinced of their dancing prowess. Thereafter, Simon was given a very wide berth, with women seen fleeing from the streets, skirts flailing.

Like the encounter with the Uros people, we were truly delighted with the visit to Taquile island, and was left even more bemused by the disparaging comments of previous visitors. However, the return journey to Puna was a misery, as by then my stomach had taken a turn for the worse, and cramping badly. Suffice to say the rest of the day and night was spent curled up in the foetal position within 5 feet of the toilet. Not a great way to prepare for Astrid’s 50th birthday………

 

Day 9 (17-Dec-15) Corporaque - Puno

Despite the fact that we’d agreed to embark on our 5.5hr drive to Puno after a 06:55 breakfast, we were all wide awake by 05:00 thanks to a group of Chinese who must have had an early start to their day and were obviously totally unaware of the other 15 billion people living on this planet who’d like to have a bit of a lie-in. Simon, like me, at one point toyed with the idea of simply opening the bedroom door and let them know (in his birthday suit), that they could stop knocking and banging on doors as we were all now awake!

Our anger however was tempered by one of the most beautiful dawns across the most stunning landscape I have ever seen – and these words are to be taken literally. Where else can you pull back the curtains and be faced with a vista that stretches +/- 80 miles before you to snow covered volcanoes, spewing steam into an Azul blue cloudless sky. Basking in the morning rays of the sun beaming down from behind, the foreground descends over 10,000ft through multiple habitats to terraced slopes abutting the hotel, with the morning chorus of myriad birds adding to this special moment in time. 

 

With breakfast out of the way and our bags packed and loaded, we were on our way by 07:45, first to drop off Christian in Chivay so he could take the bus back to Arequipa, leaving us in the capable hands of Julio for our onward journey to Puno. Quentin had intimated on several occasions that he’d like to see Andean fox and deer up close, and evidently one antelope in particular was intent on complying with this request ‘in extremus’ by colliding with our bus. Fortunately, it was a glancing blow with injury averted, and we were able to watch him run off into the hills surrounding Corporaque.

The rest of our road trip took us back via the beautifully scenic Alto Plano in the Salinas and Aguada Blanca national park, with some more views of Misty, Chachani and Pichu Pichu, and large herds of Lamas, Alcapas and wild Vacunas. We even chanced upon a **** (a type of chinchilla). Following a quick pit stop, we veered left onto what is hailed as the most-deadly road in Peru; the road to Puno and onwards to Bolivia. Julio did a fantastic job of navigating his way through traffic, and averting the many jack-knifed vehicles and other pile-ups. At 13:00 hrs we got our first glimpses of Lake Titicaca and it wasn’t long after when we checked in to our hotel with rooms affording views over the famous lake.

 

Lunch was rather meagre (and stale) fare, but also afforded us the first real opportunity in 3 days to log on to the interweb! The next two hours were spent feverishly tapping away on keyboards and staring intently into very small screens with squinting eyes. With lunch over and the backlog of e-mails, Facebook entries and other computer interactions taken care of, the boys are now off into town to find a place to exchange more money and hopefully find a decent restaurant, leaving me behind to nurse my exceedingly blocked nose and sinuses, and contemplate our adventures thus far behind closed eyes. Hopefully it’s just the very dusty air causing this temporary setback and that it won’t turn in to a fully blown Simonesque male flu……