Day 7 (03-Sep-2008) Passo di Valles - Passo Rollo

We arose at the customary early hour of 06:15hrs, and following fibre-filled breakfast, hit the trail for what turned out to be an arduous hike with more ups and downs than the Silurian Empire! Astrid had many trepidations, fearing the route to be too technical. We had thus decided the night before to follow the AV2 as far as the rifugio at Piso del Mulaz, which indeed was arduous and required much hauling on fixed wire rope.

After brief pit stop at the rifugio we opted to follow ‘escape route’ 710 off the Paledi San Martino massif to Passo Rollo, a small ski village, not knowing if the village was ‘open’ off season. The ‘escape’ proved to be more arduous still, with knees subjected to major hammering on the steep route down. The Gods then decided to extend our misery by steering the route up over another col at Passo Costazza, and subjecting us to strong cold headwinds and freezing rain.

Suffice to say, after plodding a total of over 7 hrs we were much relieved to find Passo Rollo open for business – which proved brisk that evening going by the large quantity of house wine consumed to placate the soul….

Day 6 (02-Sep-2008) Malga Ciapela - Passo di Valles

Having spent another night in very comfortable surroundings, and wanting to leave before breakfast, today seemed like the perfect day to finally eat the sausage and cheese we (Q) had been carrying around since starting this trip. Sausage extremely delicious, although somewhat spicy, cheese very cheesy and crackers, crackly. All in all a very hearty way to start the day.

Munching whilst packing, we left the hotel under cover of mist at around 07:45 hrs. Our path was meant to be an easy one, but bloody impossible to find, with the slow, tortuous 1050m ascent to the col at Forca Rossa achieved by means of a highly circuitous route that even now we are unable to find on the map!!!

The descent to Rifugio Fuchiade was through a very pleasant alpine meadow, with numerous sightings of Marmot to keep us busy, and with very handsome alpine horses intent on making our journey longer by blocking the pathway.

Following hearty lunch at the Rifugio, we plodded on down to Passo di San Pellegrino. We had intended initially to stay here the night, but Astrid had caught a 3rd wind, and so we continued up and over the next col at Forcella di Pradazzo, ending the day in Passo di Valles at 16:15 hrs. The rifugio here is a family-run affair and by far the most luxurious we had encountered to date. The food and beverage menu didn’t disappoint either…

Day 5 (01-Sep-2008) Passo Pordoi - Magla Ciapela

An easy day today in order to keep to our ‘climb high sleep low – and comfortable’ strategy. We departed 08:26 hrs (+ few secs.) in eager anticipation of our first sighting of the Marmolada, the largest massif in the Dolomites. Alas, our hopes were dashed as soon as we exited the Hotel into thick ‘Pea Soup’!!!

Unperturbed, we stepped forth towards the famous path known since time immemorial as the “Viel dal Pan”. This level stroll through alpine meadow, alive with butterflies and full of wild flowers, is simply delightful. We reached the halfway stage at Rifugio Viel dal Pan by 09:30 hrs, with the fog already beginning to lift its veil of vision. We (Q) thus decided to await its revelations over a Cappuccino before proceeding further. We were not disappointed as the entire northern face of the Marmolada unfolded before our (Q’s) very eyes. A more spectacular sight would be hard to come by, with glaciers draping its massive flanks.

Between photo shoots we continued on our way towards the southern shores of Lago di Fedaia. From there we found ourselves following a rather boring descent on the ski slopes to Malga Ciapela, our home for the night. We arrived not a moment too soon at 12:35 hrs, as Thor wielded his hammer mightily the rest of the afternoon, accompanied by rains of Biblical proportions

Day 4 (31-Aug-2008) Passo Gardena - Passo Pordoi

Up at 06:45 hrs to pack and in an attempt to be back on the road by 07:30. As breakfast wouldn’t start until 08:00, but with the first rifugio only be +/- 1.5 hrs from start of today’s trek (and because we were still digesting yesterday’s large dinner), we set off at 07:45 hrs.

Starting the day with the best intentions, the mountains decided to give it their all, with a rather steep ascent for the two hours, inclusive of final vertiginous 150m climb up our first proper Via Ferata to a plateau. Following a quick tea stop at Rifugio F. Cavazza al Pisciadu, and having somehow managed to negotiate our way up a 2nd Via Ferrata to a saddle at even higher altitude, we thought we had finally “knocked the bastard off”, only to be presented by another uphill scramble before reaching our lunch stop at Refugio Boe 4 hrs into our journey at 11:50 hrs.

After lunch, there would be another 45 minute hike to the cable car, which we’d sort of decided to exploit as the guide book mentioned a 1:2 gradient scree slope descending for some 700 m to Passo Pordoi. Now, always having been a big fan of this mode of transportation, and being rather fed up having to fight our way through the throngs of day trippers with dogs (and no backpacks), I had my mind firmly fixed on the finish line, which was visible after leaving our lunch stop.

On the way to the cable station Quentin decided to bag an extra peak, which had caught his eye. Having my goal firmly in sight, I kindly declined to join him in this little detour and agreed to meet him at the lift. Only 20 minutes after my arrival there I was joined by a rather more sweaty Q; couldn’t have been a very big hill then….

Time to buy our tickets for the lift down. One only please! Having had a quick peek over the side, Quentin decided it didn’t look too steep after all, so an Ibex-like descent was called for.

Having taken the lift down, I had the opportunity to book our hotel for the night. I did not really expect to see Q for at least another half hour, but thought it would be the wifely thing to do by waiting for him at the foot of the hill. However, within 10 minutes, an exceedingly disheveled and smelly person stood before me. The stupid grin on his face said it all – that was fun!!!

Showered, changed and after completing the rest of our post hike discipline we are now in rest mode, ready for our evening meal: Hunger!!!

Day 3 (30-Aug-2008) Rif. Genova - Passo Gardena

After a hearty Berg Steiger’s dinner night before, Astrid headed off to bed at 19:30 hrs for a major 10 hr sleep session. I was not long behind her, staying up only to photograph an amazing sunset.

I had set the alarm for 06:30 hrs, as did seemingly most other hikers, with therefore a terrible cacophony breaking the mountain serenity at the appointed time. Breakfast, ablutions and packing were completed with unseemly haste, with Astrid taking up Point by 07:55 hrs under perfect blue skies.

The first hour’s plodding was enjoyable enough, but we were unpleasantly surprised by a bloody awful ascent of a precipitous scree slope to the col at Forcella Della Roa. This was followed by another similar ascent on scree an hour later to the col at Forcella Forces Des Sieles. By this time Astrid was feeling very hot and bothered, and also badly weakened from the exertion involved. Fortunately, the remainder of the way to Rifugio Puez was much less challenging, with Astrid able to slowly gather her strength again.

Indeed, as had we reached the Refugio by 12:40hrs, our initial planned destination for the day, Astrid decided over lunch that we should push on. By then I was on my 3rd Weiß Bier, and had consumed vast quantities of food. However, being, as always, subservient to her wishes, we kitted up for an additional 7 km romp down to Passo Gardena, via 2 more nasty cols. Needless to say I felt somewhat ‘light-headed’ and my stomach was not enamored with the severe indigestion experienced along the way. However, the thought of finding accommodation in a decent Hotel for the night proved an irresistible lure. And so at 16:35 hrs we finally reached Passo Gardena and secured a room at Hotel Cir.

After soaking aches and pains and obligatory washing of smelly clothes, we at last could relax followed by a most sumptuous, although rather large 4 course meal.

Day 2 (29-Aug-2008) Brixen - Rif. Genova

After a good nights’ rest we arose at 06:00 hrs to determine how best to (unevenly) distribute loads. Resuming my role as Astrid’s Beast of Burden, I opted for the less painful taxi ride to St. Andrea followed by ski lift to St. Stubele. This in no way should be considered as cheating, as this alternative is fully endorsed in the official Alto Via 2 guidebook.

From St. Stubele we hiked to Refugio Plosse in 50 mins (an ascent of 400m), instigating flood warnings in the process as sweat pores kicked into overdrive. With the rifugio to ourselves we soaked in the sun while downing a few isotonics. With iPods activated we then embarked on the long gentle decent to Paso Rodella, in time for gargantuan lunch (fried egg, chips and bacon German style, oh and of course more Weiß Bier).

This turned out to be a big mistake as the afternoon’s hike to the col at Forcela de Putia was very arduous, with the sun beating down relentlessly in the confined gully leading to the pass. The thinner air at 2400 m also added to the drudgery. However, we soldiered on with true British stiff upper lip (let’s face it the Dutch have a quivering lower lip only) and sauntered into Rifugio Genova at 15:38 hrs.

I’m advised Weiß Bier can anesthetize parts of the human body that Ibuprofen cannot reach, so have ordered several litres in anticipation of the aches and pains to come!!!

Day 1 (28-Aug-2008) Dubai - India

Exactly one year ago today was the last day of our walk in Spain on the famous Campostela de Santiago and the day I was robbed of my backpack. To make up for this major injustice we had to go on another hike this year to make sure I could still carry my own backpack, and more…..

Yesterday started off really well with one of the infamous Dubai taxi drivers calling us at 06:15 hrs (taxi ordered for 06:30!) to notify us that he is waiting outside the house. NOT!!! By the time we were ready (06:25) there was no taxi to be found outside the house. Hence, Q goes for a quick lap around the block to make sure Mr Taxi is not waiting outside someone else’s house. NOT again. Call other taxi with squeezed buttocks as we really want to make our flight. 06:45 New taxi arrives just as Mr Taxi calls to inquire if we intend to appear or NOT!!! He should learn to read his map if he wants to pick up people from their house.

Anyway, things from then on only got better – for a while anyway…

Quentin’s lack of patience whilst traveling with me must have obviously preceded him as Emirates kindly offered to bump us up to Business Class. Suffice to say the champagne service was fully exploited – I could be a real Brit! Although we left Dubai ½ hr late, we still reached Milan on time. The connecting bus service to Milan Central and onward train to Bressanone (Brixen) left on time also, with the train journey taking us through some very majestic scenery. On arrival at journey’s end at 20:00 hrs we hiked the short journey to our hotel, with luggage unceremoniously dumped in the room while we went in search of some good Sud Tirol Wieß Bier and Italian delicacies.