Day 16 (12-Sep-2008) Pisa

Yesterday’s amazing gathering of notable works of art would be hard to beat. We therefore decided to follow an entirely different tack and take the train to Pisa for a quick look at its most famous monument: The Leaning Tower of Pisa.

With another train yet again running with military precision we reached Pisa by 11:00 hrs. Following a quick dash through a town that by all appearance has nothing special to offer, we reached our intended destination. Having decided to visit 2 of the other monuments located there and climb the Leaning One we were scheduled to make our way to the top by 12:40 hrs. The visits to the Cemetery and Basilica proved very interesting, with the later testament to the equal stature and prominence of Pisa during the Renaissance period. If anything the interior of the Basilica is more spectacular than any of its counterparts in Florence.

The hike up helical staircase in The Tower was interesting for a number of reasons, not least the bizarre sensation experienced during each circumnavigation of rising, then veering sideways, and finally falling downhill, even though the steps were of equal size and motion was inexorably upwards. The architecture is of no particular significance, but the inventive structural mechanics devised to halt and partially reverse the tower’s inclination is truly fascinating. A detailed expose on the decade-long restoration work was published in a recent issue of National Geographic. And of course the view from the top down on to the roof of the Basilica, Pisa town and surrounding countryside is worthy of the effort getting there.

Following return back down we slowly sauntered our way back through Piza, via quick stop at street café, to the train station. We arrived just in time to catch a train back to Florence, which deposited us hot and bothered back to town by 15:00hrs. Following first siesta in a week batteries were charged for one final gastronomic extravaganza….

Day 15 (11-Sep-2008) Florence

Up, dressed and standing at entrance to the Gallery of the Accademia for opening at 09:00 hrs. This museum houses famous paintings and sculptures from the Gothic to Baroque periods, including many by Michelangelo. It’s most prized piece is of course the statue ‘David’ by this same master craftsman, which defies any and all combinations of superlatives to adequately capture its perfection and pose. Equally interesting are his unfinished sculptures on display, which provide a fascinating insight to his amazing ability to visualize a 3D image superimposed on an amorphous lump of marble. Michelangelo’s 2D paintings are of course masterpieces in their own right, and his mastery of both canvas and stone qualified him as a master architect also, skills which were essential to completing his later and most famous work of all - the roof of the Sistine Chapel.

This is not to say his works fully eclipse the others on display at the Accadamia. Far from it. The two of us spent 3 hours viewing the total collection, many dating back 700 years or more, with the vast majority painstakingly restored in the past ten years to their former vivid brilliance, using a marriage of sophisticated scientific and artistic techniques. The gallery has also been able to put all of them into context by providing a detailed description and provenance for each, adding to the impression created.

Duly dazzled, we then headed over to the Uffizi Gallery, the most famous in Florence, and world renowned. A great many of the works housed here are the legacy left by the last of the Medici family. Alas, we had to queue for an hour just to get in! The works here encompass such famous artists as Cimabue, Giotto, Masaccio, Beato Angelico, Leonardo da Vinci, Botticelli, Michelangelo, Piero della Francesca, Raphael, Caravaggio, Rubens, Rembrandt, Durer, Goya and others. Again, many have been painstakingly restored in recent years to reveal their original exquisite quality, with each one accompanied by a small plaque describing the contents and provenance.

3 hours later we found ourselves at the exit suffering cultural overload and, having spent a total of 7 hours on our feet, quite exhausted. Undeterred, we then headed over to the Basilica of Santa Croce, not only famed for its ‘Crucifix’ (by Cimabue), frescoes (by Giotto) and alter, but also as the final resting place for several Italian legends, including Michelangelo, and one of my personal heroes, Galileo. The tombs and grandiose setting admirably project the inestimable contributions made by each to advance our modern civilization.

Finally, at 18:00 hrs, 9 hours after entering Accademia, we plodded back to the Hotel thoroughly knackered, but very privileged to have seen an important historical record plotting the rekindling of imagination and general enquiry from the stupefying ignorance that dominated The Dark Ages.

And more significantly a growing awareness of our empty stomachs! Man does not survive on thought alone…..

Day 14 (10-Sep-2008) Venice - Florence

Up at 07:00hrs to pack yet again and head off on foot to the railway station for our 08:43hrs train to Florence. The journey on route was very picturesque, passing eventually through the famous Tuscany hills that shaped the mind of the greatest Polymath of all time, Leonardo de Vince. Having seen models of some of his many ingenious inventions on display in Venice, we were keen to see some of his equally famous artistic masterpieces in Florence. And of course we would be following in the footsteps of other famous Renaissance painters and sculptures – many of whose works were bequeathed to public display by last of the Medici’s.

On arrival in Florence our immediate task was to find a hotel, which we finalized through the tourist office at the train station. 15 minutes later we were safely in our room. 10 minutes thereafter we were back out on the streets, chasing down our first prize of the day, the gothic cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore, famous as much for its 670 year old dome by Brunelleschi, the largest stone dome in the world, as it is for its marble façade. The views from the top of the dome across the city and hills beyond is magnificent.

Following rehydration stop, we plodded over to the Basilica of San Lorenzo, an austere structure with the vaults on each side however festooned with priceless artwork. First however we visited the Medici Chapel, home to the sarcophaguses of successive generations of leading family figures, with the church interior made entirely of marble in somber colours from across Italy and beyond; a truly majestic shrine to the most powerful dynasty of the Renaisance period.

And before we knew it the clock struck 17:00hrs, and so we returned to the hotel for a shower and short rest. At 19:30hrs we strolled down to the famous Ponte Vecchio bridge over the Arno river to watch the sunset. This was followed by a most sumptuous dinner in a quiet romantic setting. While returning to our hotel, we came across a most amazing flute player busking outside the famous Uffuzi Gallery. To our untrained ears he sounded everybit as capable as James Galway, and judging by the size of the audience crowding around him, others were equally impressed. Even the onlooking statues of famous Florentine artists seemed to come alive, stirred by his haunting rendition of classical and contemporary music.

To cap the day, as we entered the main high street on route back to our hotel, we found ourselves acosted by a very large religious procession, dedicated to The Virgin Mary, involving numerous monk and nun orders, missionary groups, charities, and an equally large number of ordinary folk at the rear, all singing hymns and chanting prayers to Santa Maria, Madre te Dio – a very solemn and moving affair.

Day 13 (09-Sep-2008) Venice

The Santa Croche, San Polo and Dorsoduro districts were the places to be traipsed through today. First off however we had to finalise plans for trip to Florence. After reviewing train, bus, car rental options we opted to buy train tickets – 2nd class.

After an extremely frugal breakfast (yoghurt only) we set off to further explore the city. With a large number of the museums of note already covered, we ended up visiting quite a number of churches. Church decor in this part of the world is considerably different from those found in Northern Spain, but is no less impressive, with marble, rather than wood or plaster, being the medium of choice.

Again, in order to avoid the ridiculous prices charged by restaurants and sandwich shops in some parts of the city, we proceeded to have lunch ‘on the go’, whilst walking from church to church. At about 15:00 hrs we decided enough was enough and tried to enter Harry’s Bar, famed as the birth place of the Belini. Having barely set foot in the establishment, that same foot was rapidly escorted to the exit again due to inappropriate attire! We instead sulked over a simple ice cream.

Following this quick but possibly not so light refreshment, we decided to take the water taxi over to Lido; Venice’s beach resort. After a quick crossing of the narrow island to view the Adriatic beyond, we returned back to “mainland” Venice and back along the Grande Canal to down some drinks on a terrace close to our B&B, where we at last found a Wi-Fi internet connection. During the 2 hrs it took to update our blogsite we managed to finish a bottle of Prosecco. After quick shower we headed back out onto the streets to help absorb the Prosecco with some fine dinning.

Day 12 (08-Sep-2008) Venice

Following yesterday’s late celebrations, which fortunately involved limited alcohol intake, we nonetheless managed to get up at the very acceptable time of 08:30 hrs. After a quick cup of coffee/tea and having decided to follow itinerary 1 from our newly acquired Venice book, we again set off for the Piazzo San Marco to visit the Basilica and various other historical sights.

By the time we reached the square, other of the innumerable tourists in Venice had already started queuing at the entrance to the Basilica of San Marco. Although the queue was rather long, our patience was rewarded soon enough with views of the most beautiful mosaics I have ever seen, all the more amazing when you realize how long ago these were first made. We were also completely stunned by the magnificent Pala d’Oro (golden altar screen), the most priceless work of art in all Christendom. The entire church, covered throughout with mosaics, frescos, freezes, paintings, marble statures and architectural masterpieces, stands as a testament to man’s artistic expression of religious devotion.

The bronze statues, taken as war booty to create the Four Horses Of The Apocalypse that stand above the main entrance, have through recent radioactive dating, been shown to originate from the 2nd century BC. Surely there is no more poignant symbol of the magnificent achievements of ancient human endeavour that were so tragically lost during the subsequent one thousand years of The Dark Ages.

After our extensive tour of the Basilica, we next paid a visit to the Doge’s Palace. Walking from room to room here too we were completely taken aback by the splendour of the artworks, in particular the ceiling fresco’s. With so much on display, our poor near-lifeless tummy’s were almost completely overlooked. However, considering the prices charged for even the simplest of refreshments (a large coke for € 5.50!) we almost elected to forego food entirely.

After a quick lunch “on the go” we joined the line of people for the Clock Tower, which since its most recent collapse in 1902, has fortunately been fitted with a lift that took us to an excellent viewing spot 60 m above the square.

Next stop: Correr Museum. Although not as impressive as the Doge’s Palace and probably due to the fact that we were slowly but surely reaching museum meltdown, we dragged our tiring legs through the extensive collection of artworks, etc. on display. Time for a refreshment.

Trying to meet up with Dave and Kerri proved to be impossible as the majority of their little group seemed to be distracted by the shops encountered on the way to our meeting point. Being forced to spend time with just each other we decided to slowly make our way back to our B&B, stopping off on the way for a quick drink (or two).

By the time we’d had our drinks and shower we decided to revisit the restaurant we had dinner at earlier in the week.

Day 11 (07-Sep-2008) Venice

Following yesterday’s moment of madness, and hopefully this holiday’s one-and-only faux pas, we still managed to get up at a reasonable hour, giving us ample time to do a full day to explore Venice. After our (not so hearty) breakfast, we set off on our first (book) guided walk, taking us past and into multiple churches along our route to San Marco Piazzo.

As we have every intention of making the most of our time in the city, we decided to purchase a special Venice Tourist ticket, which will grant us free access to public transport and some of the museums and churches, which Venice seems to have plenty of. So equipped, we embarked on a tour by water taxi around Venice and surrounding islands in the lagoon, ending up at Murano, famed for its glass. After obligatory viewing of Glass Blower in action, Astrid proceeded to buy up half the entire island’s stock of glassware, much to Visa’s consternation, who subsequently put a block on her card!

As it turned out, we couldn’t have picked a better day to be starting our Venice trip as today was the local annual Regatta. This meant the streets were rather packed and, as it turned out, the main waterways, especially the Grande Canal, were closed to normal traffic for most of the afternoon. Alas, not only were the city’s inhabitants confined to walking, it also meant that tourists intent on entering or leaving the city were forced to drag their luggage through the very congested Venetian alleyways – including therefore Dave and Kerri who had just arrived from Dubai to start their cruise holiday.

While we therefore enjoyed the Regatta from a prime viewing location close to the famous Rialto Bridge, Dave and Kerri spent an hour dragging their considerable luggage (and carcasses) to their B&B. After dumping their gear, we met up for a very pleasant dinner to finish the day – and what better way to do so than with a glass of Grappa, washed down with fine Lemoncello!!

Day 10 (06-Sep-2008) San Martino - Venice

With the bus to Venice not scheduled to depart Imer until 17:27hrs, we opted for a leisurely start to the day, with breakfast and packing of rucksacks delaying check-out from Hotel until 08:45hrs. And thence to the day’s hike along a fiendishly cunning route of my devising that in retrospect was all but impossible to follow. Starting on graded tracks, linked by ski runs, we then switched to marked hiking trails, bringing us rapidly above the tree line into Alpine country. We then followed boggy mule tracks in a slow traverse around the rear of the mountain chain, passing back over to the eastern side via the col at Forcella Scanaiol, involving a total ascent of 800m. From the summit, we were rewarded with a gentle long descent to a small lake, Lago di Calaita, where we had a frugal lunch.

We were then to cross another ridge, followed by a zig-zag descent to Imer. Alas, this last section did not go according to plan, with great difficulty encountered finding and keeping to the trail. Ultimately, with time running out, we had no option left but to take any trials we could find descending the mountain. This proved to be a somewhat hazardous strategy, with thighs, knees and feet subjected to severe hammering following goat trails. As much effort was expended on expletives as on trying to control our descent. Nonetheless, we emerged unscathed and precisely at the right location, with just 12 minutes to spare before the scheduled arrival of the bus – what happenstance!

Alas, after 8.5hrs of almost non-stop difficult walking, covering total distance of 25km, 1200m of ascent and 1500m descent, we were in no fit state to get on the bus, with clothes being very dirty, extremely sweaty and emitting a decidedly noxious odour – well mine anyway. I was thus ‘compelled’ by Astrid to change clothes quickly, which I had to do on the main street in Imer!

The bus journey to Venice was thankfully uneventful, with the two of us wandering the streets at 20:30hrs in search of our hotel – no mean feat given we had very imprecise directions. Eventually however, we did find our Manger and following check-in, spent LONG time in the shower. This was followed by well deserved dinner at a lovely restaurant nearby, watching Venetian life walk by.

Day 9 (05-Sep-2008) San Martino

Up again at 06:00hrs in order to pack for solo finish of Alto Via 2 and be at cable car for ride back up to Refugio Roesetta on Paledi San Martino massif. The weather, while not sunny, appeared at least calm from the cozy interior of the Hotel room. Alas, the same could not be said on disembarking from the cable car at 08:00hrs.

The weather at 2700m was very menacing, with fierce gusting winds, heavy rain and freezing temperatures. After battling the conditions for 30 mins. to reach the rifugio I was notified by Moutain Rangers that the route ahead to Rifugio Treviso had been closed, as some of the ridges are very exposed and narrow. With little prospect of conditions improving for the rest of the day I thus had no choice but to beat a slow retreat back up to the cable car and descend to town, knowing full well this meant having to abandon rest of Alto Via 2 for another time.

Though obviously disappointed, I was happy to be back with Astrid again, and we both immediately turned our attentions to preparations for ‘Plan B’. After reviewing all available maps, weather reports and following number of Internet searches on my Blackberry, we opted for one final long ‘sendentary’ hike tomorrow before catching a late afternoon bus to Venice for a 4-day cultural awareness program (the Dutch have so little to speak of). Having managed to also book Hotel accommodation in Venice we then set off for 3-hour wet afternoon stroll through the surrounding forest.

The associated expenditure of energy was considered just cause for another culinary extravagana to end the day.

Day 8 (04-Sep-2008) Passo Rollo - San Martino

Having checked in to our very luxurious hotel in San Martino after a stroll of a mere 2 hrs we hardly feel deserved of the lush surroundings we now find ourselves in. However, this did not stop us from having a rather delicious Paninni with a fine cup of Cappuccino. No beer for Quentin yet as even he felt undeserved of such gluttony following such little exertion.

Therefore it was unanimously decided to have a shortish (approx. 2 hr) traipse through the woods surrounding this pretty ski resort.

As Quentin will be resuming our intended path by himself tomorrow, we will be needing to stock up on some additional toiletries prior to sending him on his merry way. On our journeys through town we may bump in to an establishment that sells Weiß Bier….

Day 7 (03-Sep-2008) Passo di Valles - Passo Rollo

We arose at the customary early hour of 06:15hrs, and following fibre-filled breakfast, hit the trail for what turned out to be an arduous hike with more ups and downs than the Silurian Empire! Astrid had many trepidations, fearing the route to be too technical. We had thus decided the night before to follow the AV2 as far as the rifugio at Piso del Mulaz, which indeed was arduous and required much hauling on fixed wire rope.

After brief pit stop at the rifugio we opted to follow ‘escape route’ 710 off the Paledi San Martino massif to Passo Rollo, a small ski village, not knowing if the village was ‘open’ off season. The ‘escape’ proved to be more arduous still, with knees subjected to major hammering on the steep route down. The Gods then decided to extend our misery by steering the route up over another col at Passo Costazza, and subjecting us to strong cold headwinds and freezing rain.

Suffice to say, after plodding a total of over 7 hrs we were much relieved to find Passo Rollo open for business – which proved brisk that evening going by the large quantity of house wine consumed to placate the soul….

Day 6 (02-Sep-2008) Malga Ciapela - Passo di Valles

Having spent another night in very comfortable surroundings, and wanting to leave before breakfast, today seemed like the perfect day to finally eat the sausage and cheese we (Q) had been carrying around since starting this trip. Sausage extremely delicious, although somewhat spicy, cheese very cheesy and crackers, crackly. All in all a very hearty way to start the day.

Munching whilst packing, we left the hotel under cover of mist at around 07:45 hrs. Our path was meant to be an easy one, but bloody impossible to find, with the slow, tortuous 1050m ascent to the col at Forca Rossa achieved by means of a highly circuitous route that even now we are unable to find on the map!!!

The descent to Rifugio Fuchiade was through a very pleasant alpine meadow, with numerous sightings of Marmot to keep us busy, and with very handsome alpine horses intent on making our journey longer by blocking the pathway.

Following hearty lunch at the Rifugio, we plodded on down to Passo di San Pellegrino. We had intended initially to stay here the night, but Astrid had caught a 3rd wind, and so we continued up and over the next col at Forcella di Pradazzo, ending the day in Passo di Valles at 16:15 hrs. The rifugio here is a family-run affair and by far the most luxurious we had encountered to date. The food and beverage menu didn’t disappoint either…

Day 5 (01-Sep-2008) Passo Pordoi - Magla Ciapela

An easy day today in order to keep to our ‘climb high sleep low – and comfortable’ strategy. We departed 08:26 hrs (+ few secs.) in eager anticipation of our first sighting of the Marmolada, the largest massif in the Dolomites. Alas, our hopes were dashed as soon as we exited the Hotel into thick ‘Pea Soup’!!!

Unperturbed, we stepped forth towards the famous path known since time immemorial as the “Viel dal Pan”. This level stroll through alpine meadow, alive with butterflies and full of wild flowers, is simply delightful. We reached the halfway stage at Rifugio Viel dal Pan by 09:30 hrs, with the fog already beginning to lift its veil of vision. We (Q) thus decided to await its revelations over a Cappuccino before proceeding further. We were not disappointed as the entire northern face of the Marmolada unfolded before our (Q’s) very eyes. A more spectacular sight would be hard to come by, with glaciers draping its massive flanks.

Between photo shoots we continued on our way towards the southern shores of Lago di Fedaia. From there we found ourselves following a rather boring descent on the ski slopes to Malga Ciapela, our home for the night. We arrived not a moment too soon at 12:35 hrs, as Thor wielded his hammer mightily the rest of the afternoon, accompanied by rains of Biblical proportions

Day 4 (31-Aug-2008) Passo Gardena - Passo Pordoi

Up at 06:45 hrs to pack and in an attempt to be back on the road by 07:30. As breakfast wouldn’t start until 08:00, but with the first rifugio only be +/- 1.5 hrs from start of today’s trek (and because we were still digesting yesterday’s large dinner), we set off at 07:45 hrs.

Starting the day with the best intentions, the mountains decided to give it their all, with a rather steep ascent for the two hours, inclusive of final vertiginous 150m climb up our first proper Via Ferata to a plateau. Following a quick tea stop at Rifugio F. Cavazza al Pisciadu, and having somehow managed to negotiate our way up a 2nd Via Ferrata to a saddle at even higher altitude, we thought we had finally “knocked the bastard off”, only to be presented by another uphill scramble before reaching our lunch stop at Refugio Boe 4 hrs into our journey at 11:50 hrs.

After lunch, there would be another 45 minute hike to the cable car, which we’d sort of decided to exploit as the guide book mentioned a 1:2 gradient scree slope descending for some 700 m to Passo Pordoi. Now, always having been a big fan of this mode of transportation, and being rather fed up having to fight our way through the throngs of day trippers with dogs (and no backpacks), I had my mind firmly fixed on the finish line, which was visible after leaving our lunch stop.

On the way to the cable station Quentin decided to bag an extra peak, which had caught his eye. Having my goal firmly in sight, I kindly declined to join him in this little detour and agreed to meet him at the lift. Only 20 minutes after my arrival there I was joined by a rather more sweaty Q; couldn’t have been a very big hill then….

Time to buy our tickets for the lift down. One only please! Having had a quick peek over the side, Quentin decided it didn’t look too steep after all, so an Ibex-like descent was called for.

Having taken the lift down, I had the opportunity to book our hotel for the night. I did not really expect to see Q for at least another half hour, but thought it would be the wifely thing to do by waiting for him at the foot of the hill. However, within 10 minutes, an exceedingly disheveled and smelly person stood before me. The stupid grin on his face said it all – that was fun!!!

Showered, changed and after completing the rest of our post hike discipline we are now in rest mode, ready for our evening meal: Hunger!!!

Day 3 (30-Aug-2008) Rif. Genova - Passo Gardena

After a hearty Berg Steiger’s dinner night before, Astrid headed off to bed at 19:30 hrs for a major 10 hr sleep session. I was not long behind her, staying up only to photograph an amazing sunset.

I had set the alarm for 06:30 hrs, as did seemingly most other hikers, with therefore a terrible cacophony breaking the mountain serenity at the appointed time. Breakfast, ablutions and packing were completed with unseemly haste, with Astrid taking up Point by 07:55 hrs under perfect blue skies.

The first hour’s plodding was enjoyable enough, but we were unpleasantly surprised by a bloody awful ascent of a precipitous scree slope to the col at Forcella Della Roa. This was followed by another similar ascent on scree an hour later to the col at Forcella Forces Des Sieles. By this time Astrid was feeling very hot and bothered, and also badly weakened from the exertion involved. Fortunately, the remainder of the way to Rifugio Puez was much less challenging, with Astrid able to slowly gather her strength again.

Indeed, as had we reached the Refugio by 12:40hrs, our initial planned destination for the day, Astrid decided over lunch that we should push on. By then I was on my 3rd Weiß Bier, and had consumed vast quantities of food. However, being, as always, subservient to her wishes, we kitted up for an additional 7 km romp down to Passo Gardena, via 2 more nasty cols. Needless to say I felt somewhat ‘light-headed’ and my stomach was not enamored with the severe indigestion experienced along the way. However, the thought of finding accommodation in a decent Hotel for the night proved an irresistible lure. And so at 16:35 hrs we finally reached Passo Gardena and secured a room at Hotel Cir.

After soaking aches and pains and obligatory washing of smelly clothes, we at last could relax followed by a most sumptuous, although rather large 4 course meal.

Day 2 (29-Aug-2008) Brixen - Rif. Genova

After a good nights’ rest we arose at 06:00 hrs to determine how best to (unevenly) distribute loads. Resuming my role as Astrid’s Beast of Burden, I opted for the less painful taxi ride to St. Andrea followed by ski lift to St. Stubele. This in no way should be considered as cheating, as this alternative is fully endorsed in the official Alto Via 2 guidebook.

From St. Stubele we hiked to Refugio Plosse in 50 mins (an ascent of 400m), instigating flood warnings in the process as sweat pores kicked into overdrive. With the rifugio to ourselves we soaked in the sun while downing a few isotonics. With iPods activated we then embarked on the long gentle decent to Paso Rodella, in time for gargantuan lunch (fried egg, chips and bacon German style, oh and of course more Weiß Bier).

This turned out to be a big mistake as the afternoon’s hike to the col at Forcela de Putia was very arduous, with the sun beating down relentlessly in the confined gully leading to the pass. The thinner air at 2400 m also added to the drudgery. However, we soldiered on with true British stiff upper lip (let’s face it the Dutch have a quivering lower lip only) and sauntered into Rifugio Genova at 15:38 hrs.

I’m advised Weiß Bier can anesthetize parts of the human body that Ibuprofen cannot reach, so have ordered several litres in anticipation of the aches and pains to come!!!

Day 1 (28-Aug-2008) Dubai - India

Exactly one year ago today was the last day of our walk in Spain on the famous Campostela de Santiago and the day I was robbed of my backpack. To make up for this major injustice we had to go on another hike this year to make sure I could still carry my own backpack, and more…..

Yesterday started off really well with one of the infamous Dubai taxi drivers calling us at 06:15 hrs (taxi ordered for 06:30!) to notify us that he is waiting outside the house. NOT!!! By the time we were ready (06:25) there was no taxi to be found outside the house. Hence, Q goes for a quick lap around the block to make sure Mr Taxi is not waiting outside someone else’s house. NOT again. Call other taxi with squeezed buttocks as we really want to make our flight. 06:45 New taxi arrives just as Mr Taxi calls to inquire if we intend to appear or NOT!!! He should learn to read his map if he wants to pick up people from their house.

Anyway, things from then on only got better – for a while anyway…

Quentin’s lack of patience whilst traveling with me must have obviously preceded him as Emirates kindly offered to bump us up to Business Class. Suffice to say the champagne service was fully exploited – I could be a real Brit! Although we left Dubai ½ hr late, we still reached Milan on time. The connecting bus service to Milan Central and onward train to Bressanone (Brixen) left on time also, with the train journey taking us through some very majestic scenery. On arrival at journey’s end at 20:00 hrs we hiked the short journey to our hotel, with luggage unceremoniously dumped in the room while we went in search of some good Sud Tirol Wieß Bier and Italian delicacies.