Day 10 (31-Dec-12) - Adelaide (260 km)

Given the intense cold experienced the previous two days diving with a 5mm wet suit, the thought of entering the water with just a T-Shirt to go snorkling at Edithburgh was deemed less than desirable. Consequently, we elected instead for more overland adventures. Departing the hotel at 08:00hrs, we first drove to Lake Alexandrina, via Strathalbyn. This very large and shallow lake was named after Princess Alexandrina, niece and successor of King William IV, who of course ultimately became Queen Victoria. It is located to the east of Fleurieu Peninsula and drains the Murray River, with the lake emptying into the sea near Goolwa (the channel is known as the Murray Mouth), but when the river flow is low the entrance is often blocked by a sand-bar. Though connected to the ocean historically the fresh and salt water flows mixed very little, with the lake area remaining fresh over 95% of the time with normal river inflow. The lake is now maintained as fresh water by a series of barrages across the islands near the Murray Mouth. The lake is a haven for marshland and sea birds, with Astrid at one point able to capture pelicans, indigenous geese, ducks, shags, ibis, terns and Gulls - in the same photo!

We then headed to Mannum via Murray Bridge for views of the paddle steamers that still ply the Murray River, although these days they carry tourists rather than cargo. Captain Sturt sailed past the present site of Mannum in 1830 and proved on that trip that the Murray Darling system terminated at the sea.William Randell, who worked at his father's flourmill in Gumeracha, was the first to build a paddle steamer on the Murray. He, and his brother, Thomas, together with a carpenter, built the frame and transported it to their father's river property by bullock cart. There, they finished it in 1852 and named it the ‘Mary Ann' after their mother. Within a decade paddle steamers would trade goods along a 1000km stretch of the river, transforming the economy of South Australia, much as paddle steamers had transformed the economies of the states bordering the Mississippi in the USA.

 

Following brief pit stop we returned to Adelaide via Palmer, Mount Torrens, Lobethal, the Forest Range, Basket Range, Ashton and Magill, before finally reaching our intended destination - Adelaide Zoo. Though we have visited many safari parks and nature reserves over the years, this particular zoo is home to two very special animals, the only two in the whole of the southern hemisphere, and belonging to a species that is now synonymous with animal conservation - the Giant Panda :-). We had fully expected the Panda enclosure to be packed with visitors hoping for a glimpse of these cuddly critters. However, given the date, and with air temperatures hovering at a brutal 36C, the zoo was very quiet. Incredulously therefore, for the last half hour prior to closing, Astrid and I suddenly found ourselves alone with the two Pandas - what a way to end the year!!! During that half hour Astrid interacted and took photos of Wang Wang, while I took video of Funi. We were eventually 'evicted' from the zoo at 16:45hrs - the last two visitors to leave. We then drove the short distance back to the Hotel to reflect on an amazing day, a fabulous holiday and a hectic 2012.

Day 9 (30-Dec-12) - Victor Harbour - Adelaide (135 km)

Again an early start, with the alarm set for 05:45hrs. This enabled us to have a hearty breakfast (Drovers Platter) before packing up the car and heading off at 07:05hrs to West Beach, just west of Adelaide. We departed the motel under thick cloud, but once we reached the leeward side of the peninsula, we found ourselves bathed in glorious sunshine. We arrived at West Beach at 08:15hrs, with Kym already waiting for us with all our diving gear. Following usual diving brief we headed down to the jetty to board the inflatable speed boat that was to take us out to a dredger that had been intentionally sunk in the '80s to create an artificial reef. Alas, one of the twin 250hp outboard engines would not start, which meant having to abandon plans to dive the wreck. Instead, we headed out on one engine to a natural reef closer to shore.

Visibility was good, but out in the open and at depth the water was even colder than yesterday, with Astrid shivering badly once we exited the water 45 minutes later. Thankfully, we were partially compensated by close encounters with some very inquisitive and particularly colourful cuttle fish. We also drifted over a poisonous variety of star fish - not to be trifled with - schools of various cold water fish, and some more nuddibranchs. On re-entering the boat at the end of the dive, which involved manic fining to 'launch' oneself out of the water like an Emperor Penguin, we were informed that the second outboard engine had been fixed, so during the surface interval we headed out to the sunken dredger.

By now however Astrid's complexion had turned blue, and so she sensibly decided to fore go the second dive along the bottom, into, and over the sunken dredger. Kym and I thus paired up and dropped over the side of the boat and descended down the mooring line to the dredger 15m below. Within seconds we were greeted by blue devils, cuttle fish, groupers and host of other fish that had taken up residence at the wreck. Passage through the various open holds and interior cabins was a tight fit, and definitely not suitable for those suffering even the slightest claustrophobia. Fortunately, Kym kept me safe - although I did bump my head a few times as buoyancy control using his borrowed BCD proved difficult.

At the end of the allotted 45 minutes maximum diving time we headed back to the boat, by which time my feet felt like blocks of ice. Fortunately, my hands had not been effected by the cold, and so retained the dexterity needed to operate the underwater camera, allowing me to capture some great shots of various marine critters. The journey back to the jetty was quick, but with the wind now at 25 km/hr, I too was shivering by the time we reached Terra Firma. Thankfully, with no clouds in sight, we both warmed up very quickly, and found ourselves heading off in the car at 13:30hrs to Glenelg for a hot coffee and to study the locals relaxing on the beach. We then drove north to Outer Harbor at the tip of the peninsula for views over Gulf St Vincent before then heading back to the Mercure Hotel in Adelaide, arriving just after 16:30hrs. 

Day 8 (29-Dec-12) Adelaide - Victor Harbour (136 km)

Today was much anticipated, with the day's planned scuba diving at Rapid Bay, on the Fleurieu Peninsula, being the primary reason for driving all the way from Brisbane to Adelaide. The weather was warm and sunny, but the water a frigid 19C, necessitating use of 5mm wet suits - though Astrid used a 7mm wet suit, and still ending up shivering. Indeed, after just 40 minutes on the first dive, her hands were so cold she was no longer able to operate the underwater camera! The diving itself took place off the jetty, which is famed for being host to the world renowned Leafy Sea Dragon. This marine critter is generally regarded as having the most sophisticated camouflage techniques devised by Nature, comprising a stunning visual blending with the sea grasses that it consumes, combined with an intentional swaying motion that precisely matches the movement of the grasses. The effectiveness of these two 'optical illusions' is so complete that the creature has no known predators. 

While the highlight of the day was catching sight of these magnificent creatures, we also caught sight of an eagle ray, cuttle fish, squid, schools of trout, nuddibraches, exotic box fish, huge crabs, and menagerie of other cold water fish. With the dives taking place at shallow depths (< 9m) we were able to extend dive times to over an hour each, with no surface interval required. Getting into and out of the water at end the jetty was long and arduous, with the journey from Adelaide taking 1.25 hours also. As such, the diving ended around 15:00hrs, with further 0.5hrs needed to cleanup and dump everything back in the car. We thus did not complete the transfer to our Motel in Victor Harbour until around 16:15hrs. We then unpacked everything and sunk into a bottle of plonk to celebrate and reflect on the day's proceedings.

The photos provide a mere tantalizing glimpse of the amazing critters to be found in this part of the world. With more diving planned for tomorrow we will be happy if we get to see just half as much. We are in for a restless night.... 

Day 7 (28-Dec-12) Adelaide Hills (125 km)

For a change we did not have to ‘up anchor’ and move to a new location. As such, there was no manic start to the day. Instead, following a quick cuppa, we packed a day pack only and then headed off to Waterfall Gully for hike up to Mount Lofty. This 4km route proved to be more arduous than expected, though we were passed by a number of super fit athletes that ran to the summit. By the time we arrived at the summit the clouds that had appeared so threatening when we first awoke had all but disappeared, and we were rewarded with crystal clear views of the city.

Following a rapid descent back to the car we grabbed a quick cuppa before then heading off in the car for a scenic drive through the Adelaide Hills. The clockwise circuit took us up Gorge Road to Castambul and then along Torrens Valley Road to Birdwood. After stopping for quick lunch we continued through Mount Torrens along Mount Torrens Road to Hahndorf. Hahndorf has an interesting history. The town was settled by Lutheran migrants largely from in and around a small village then named Kay in Prussia, many of whom were aboard the Zebra arriving on 28 December 1838. The town is named after the Danish captain of the Zebra, Dirk Meinhertz Hahn. There is still a strong German flavour in Hahndorf, most evident in the small-goods outlets and German bakeries that line the bustling main street. Several boutique cellar doors have recently opened in the main street, and trendy eateries serve the freshest and best local produce.

We then drove to Warrawong Wildlife Sanctuary in Mylor, hoping to catch sight of a few Platypus. Alas, we were to be disappointed, though Astrid did catch sight of a Bandicoot, a very shy creature that is normally only seen at night. We also caught sight of a wild Koala, plus a variety of different wallabies. After an hour traipsing through the park we elected to head back to Adelaide, arriving back at the hotel at 16:15hrs.

Day 6 (27-Dec-12) Melbourne - Adelaide (749 km)

With stomachs still bloated from the excesses of the night before, and heads still a little sore from excess alcohol, we departed Melbourne at 07:15hrs for the LOONNGG drive to Adelaide. Thankfully, the route is very straightforward, the terrain flat, and the roads in good condition. The journey itself was uneventful, which, given our delicate condition, was a mercy. The scenery essentially comprised golden wheat fields stretching to the horizon, both sides of the road, right across South Australia, which is aptly named the ‘Bread Basket’ of Australia.

Following regular stops to revive and refuel we eventually arrived in Adelaide around 15:30hrs. We would have arrived an hour earlier, but for a short diversion to Murray Bridge to view the famous Murray river and then to Mount Lofty for spectacular views of the city and ocean beyond. Our subsequent journey into town to the Mercure hotel was marred by the fact that Emile was determined to lead us anywhere but the hotel! We thus had to resort to more traditional navigation techniques – maps, compass and iPod beacon.

 

After eventually reaching the hotel we then spent an hour frantically trying to locate records of the diving trips which Astrid booked in July, but forgot to bring with her. Astrid had sent an e-mail earlier in the day to the diving outfit that she thought we had booked, but on phoning them an hour later, they claimed to have no record of our booking, and furthermore told us they had changed name. We thus searched Visa statements online, called the Visa hotline, searched my WellDog e-mail folders and searched Astrid’s online Hotmail account – alas to no avail. Then, just as we were about to give up, I checked my latest e-mails, where, lo and behold, was a reply from the company Astrid had contacted earlier in the day, confirming our reservation – stupid b**tards.

Day 5 (26-Dec-12) Jindabyne - Melbourne (565 km)

Today was designated a ‘rest day’, involving a day of driving only. As such, the start to the day was very leisurely, though again early, with Jindabyne fast receding in our rear view mirror by 07:10hrs. The traverse west along the Alpine Way through Kosciuszko NP was stunning, with low clouds suddenly giving way to clear blue skies as we past Thredbo. The route along the narrow road was alas very tiring also, involving steep ascents and descents, around innumerable hairpin bends, extending for more than a 100km! However, by the time we reached the border with Victoria, the terrain was mercifully flat, at which point we looked forward to an uneventful, yet pleasant, drive west to our intended layover in Epsom. Alas, our plans soon lay in ruins…..

 

While travelling on the Hume Highway we noticed distance markers to Melbourne, observing that, compared to the distance already travelled from Brisbane, the city was ‘just down the road’ (300km). Thoughts naturally turned to Nick & Nikki (N&N), so Astrid sent a quick SMS to Nikki to let her know that we were in the ‘neighbourhood’ and to wish her happy Xmas. This triggered a flurry of SMS and phone calls, which, within the space of 5 minutes, culminated in a sudden and major course correction. Rather than continue west to Epsom for a mundane dinner of leftover pasta, we opted instead to drop south on a ‘slight diversion’ to Melbourne and a sumptuous feast with N&N J. This impromptu decision proved to be a highlight of the holiday, for what better way to spend Boxing Day, if not in the company of good friends, debating the major issues of the day (not least Australia’s response to the Sri Lankan collapse on Day 1 of the test at the MCG), washed down with great food and great wine!

Day 4 (25-Dec-12) Canberra - Jindabyne (270 km)

With only a short drive today we allowed ourselves two hours extra kip. Prior to leaving Canberra we walked around the outside of the National War Memorial – an imposing and austere shrine facing Parliament House across a long wide boulevard; its location designed to act as a very visual and sobering reminder to all politicians of the sacrifices having to be made in enacting their foreign policies. We then made a quick ascent of Mount Ainslee for panoramic views of the city and surrounding countryside, before then heading off in search of an open petrol station – a challenging task given the entire city seemed to have shutdown for Xmas. Following a fruitless search of the suburbs Astrid came up with the bright idea of going to the airport, as there are always petrol stations close to the car rental outlets.

 

Fully refuelled, we headed out of town under very cloudy skies towards Jindabyne, a ‘short transit’ of just 186km along the Monaro highway, with only five other vehicles encountered along the entire route! On the way I opened Xmas presents, which Astrid had sneaked into the car in Brisbane. While elated with my stash of goodies, I also felt very guilty, as I had not bothered buying any presents for Astrid :-(. 

On arriving at our cabin we offloaded all the food and clothes, and then immediately headed up the Alpine Way to Thredbo, with the aim of hiking to the summit of Mount Kosciuszko. Once there, however, the place appeared deserted, but after traipsing to the other side of town we found that the Express chair lift was indeed open. Given the cold, wet conditions Astrid elected to purchase a fleece jacket and hat before heading up into the mist. Unsure of whether the summit was also clouded in mist Astrid elected to stay at a restaurant at the top of the chair lift. So as not to keep her waiting too long I then ran to the summit and back, a round trip of 13km along a well-marked trail. Thankfully, the summit pyramid rose above the clouds, affording spectacular sunny views of other Snowy Mountain peaks poking through the cloud layer.

 

Following a (very) large beer to replenish lost fluids we then both descended the mountain via the Merritt Nature Trial, which traverses beautiful alpine, sub-alpine and forested terrain. We then headed back to our Cabin at Jindabyne, where Astrid prepared a sumptuous Xmas feast, replete with Xmas crackers and brightly lit snow man. Dinner was washed down with a bottle of Champagne, which we had brought with us from Brisbane just for this occasion. A great way to end a great day!

Day 3 (24-Dec-12) Pokolbin - Canberra (572 km)

Realising that today would be the longest of the holiday we set the alarm for 05:00hrs, and were on the road, roaring past Hunter Valley’s famous vineyards, by 06:05hrs. Again, we shied away from the main highways, electing instead to head south on State Route 69 through Wollemi NP. At 09:40hrs we arrived at Kentworth Falls in the Blue Mountains NP to make a traverse of the famous National Pass. This hiking route was literally hacked into the side of the escarpment overlooking the Blue Mountains by 4 ‘Navvies’, using pickaxes only, at the start of the last century. The trek is not for the faint of heart, given the vertiginous drop, and it is also physically demanding at the end. However, the views are worth every drop of sweat.

 

On reaching the Conservation Hut at the end of the traverse we stopped for a well-earned coffee break. With vital organs suitably rejuvenated we headed back to the car and drove to Katoomba to see The Three Sisters; three rock pinnacles on a rock buttress further along the escarpment. From there we then headed over to Evans Lookout in Blackheath for more stunning views of the Blue Mountains.

 

Fully gratified we then embarked on a long tortuous drive along a narrow windy road to see the famous Jenolan Caves at the edge of Kanangra-Boyd NP. On route we had a close, and nearly tragic, encounter with an Echidna! The wee fella was shuffling across the road just beyond the crest of a steep hill, which meant we did not see him until he was almost under our tyres! Not being fleet-of-foot he was unable to extricate himself from this very precarious situation, and were it not for Astrid’s lightening quick reactions, the outcome would have left us both very devastated. Mercifully, we were able instead to watch him waddle off into the grass on the far side of the road, where I followed him in hot pursuit with camera in hand to snatch a few photos of this very cute critter.

 

After taking our fill of stalagmites, stalactites, caverns, etc. at the caves we then continued south towards Canberra, skirting the edge of Gurnang and Mount Werong State Forests, and then passing through Taralga and Goulburn. On reaching National Route 23 inside Australian Capital Territory we suddenly found ourselves confronted by a massive weather front, with very menacing cloud formations stacked up into the upper troposphere and sheet lightening dancing across the entire horizon. With just 28kn to go we were hit with violent gusting winds and a heavy downpour, slowing our progress to a virtual crawl. Thankfully, we made it to the Mercure Hotel at the edge of the city across from the War Memorial in one piece by 19:38hrs. Following quick shower to cleanse smelly bodies we tucked into some pub grub before finally succumbing to sleep at 21:30hrs.

 

Day 2 (23-Dec-12) Glen Innes - Pokolbin (620 km)

I had set the alarm for 05:00hrs, but on being awoken at the appointed hour was surprised to see it was still dark. It then dawned on me (pardon the pun) that NSW is one hour ahead of Brisbane – what a dumbass! I thus used the time to catch up on some work before arousing Astrid at 06:00hrs. We eventually departed our cosy cabin at 07:05hrs, following a hearty breakfast, heading south on the New England Hwy under clearing skies.  At Guyra we headed South East and entered Guy Fawkes NP just before Ebor to glimpse the Ibor Falls. After a quick 2km hike to see both the upper and lower sections of the falls we drove to Cathedral Rock NP. There we hiked/scrambled up to the summit of Cathedral Rock for spectacular vistas over the park.

 

Following a quick descent back to the car we then headed over to Wollomombi Falls in Oxley Wild Rivers National Park. The volume of water tumbling over the falls was less than at Ibor Falls, but the setting is jaw dropping, with the water tumbling into a deep gorge. Following 5km route march over steep terrain to see the falls from various perspectives we jumped back in the car for the long, but very scenic, drive to Pokolbin, via Amidale, south through Tuggolo and Giro State Forests to Gloucester.

 

After taking on additional fuel and a few Red Bulls to keep tiredness at bay we followed a very cunning route devised by our Garmin Sat. Nav system (aka Emilie). In order to truly immerse ourselves in Australia’s famed rural back country, we had programmed Emilie to confine us to byways and county lanes. While this did achieve the desired results, the route we were forced to follow was extremely tiring, with more hairpin bends that I care to remember. We thus did not arrive in Pokolbin until 19:10hrs, fully 12 hours after departing Glenn Innes.

Needless to say we were exhausted by the day’s proceedings, but were revived somewhat by the very enchanting setting. Realising we would be leaving early the next morning I got back in the car in search of a petrol station while Astrid made dinner – a sumptuous pasta dish. With stomachs full, and body parts embalmed in wine, we rapidly succumbed to tiredness, and found ourselves in bed by 21:30hrs, barely able to keep eyelids open. 

Day 1 (22-Dec-12) Brisbane - Glen Innes (428 km)

Departed Brisbane 07:30hrs under thick cloud, with departure held up for two hours while Astrid fulfilled her matrimonial duties - cleaning the house J. The journey to Beaudesert was uneventful and unexpectedly quiet, suggesting most city residents were sleeping off major hangovers. We then headed south west on Mount Lindesay highway, crossing into NSW between Mount Barney NP and Mount Lindesay State Forest. At Woodenbong we then headed due south on scenic backcountry roads through the small hamlets of Urbenville, Capeen, and Bonalbo. The road ended at the intersection with Hwy 44, where we stopped to make a quick cuppa and a sandwich from our ‘carry-on’ self-catering provisions.

Refreshed, we then headed west on Hwy 44 for a few kilometres before then dropping south on Clarence Way, an unpaved track through spectacular landscapes. After 44km we then headed west on Carnham Road, a dirt track, littered with numerous bovine obstacles, that passed through Coombadjha and along the eastern edge of Washpool state forest. By the time we returned to solid tarmac on Gwydir Highway the car looked like a Dalmatian, with the dark spots being remnants of cow pats with a decidedly obnoxious odour!
Once on Gwydir Highway we headed up to the New England tablelands at top of the Gibraltar Range NP, afforded us fantastic views of the hilly country below. Following stops at various scenic lookouts we then continued onto Glen Innes, arriving 16:15 hours, where we checked into very spacious yet cheap caravan accommodation. After unloading the car we headed into town to purchase essential provisions – two bottles of wine – and took a leisurely stroll along the high street to ‘study the locals’. On return to the caravan we reflected on a great start to our National Lampoon Holiday over a few glasses of local plonk!

Day 9 (14-Oct-2012) Auckland

Yet another leisurely start to the day, this time greeted by milder but colder weather. Suitably wrapped up, we headed back to Mount Eden for better photos and video of the city skyline. We then drove over the Harbour Bridge to Davenport on the other side of Waitemata Harbour for different view of the CBD. Following quick stop for coffee we meandered our way up Mount Victoria to grab photos and video across the Rangitoto Channel.

 

We then elected to head across the Waitakere Range to Muriwai Beach, where there are three additional Gannet colonies. Here the viewing platforms are sited above the colonies, allowing us to capture photos and video looking down onto the many birds hovering over the colonies and gliding along the cliffs. With the winds again nearing gale force the birds simply had to spread their wings to take off, and stayed almost motionless as they held station over their perches – a truly amazing sight.

After taking our fill, and filling camera and camcorder memory cards in the process, we departed for Piha Beach, a beautiful secluded beach nestled into the western flanks of the Waitakere Range, which has been designated a national park.  Facing the Tasman Sea, this quaint village is accessible by a single windy road through the mountains. The black volcanic beach, sandwiched between steep sandstone cliffs, and buffeted by an angry emerald green sea below a blue sky, made for quite a photographic setting.
 

We then headed to Titirangi via the Arataki Visitor Centre, the start of the Hillary Trail, created by Edmund Hilary, who grew up in the Waitakere Range. The visitor centre also affords fabulous vistas over Manukau Harbour, houses an amazing collection of Maori art, in addition to numerous wildlife exhibits. By now the weather had broken and so we decided to drive over to Saint Heliers Bay, which offers views of Rangitoto Island across the Rangitoto Channel and also the CBD to the west. Before at last heading back to the hotel, we drove further around the coastline to Achilles Point for views across Tanaki Strait.

Day 8 (13-Oct-2012) Coromandel - Auckland

The hectic schedule of the past week finally took a toll on mind and body, with sleep sweeping over us as soon as we returned from dinner last night, until 07:30hrs this morning. When we did awaken, it was to the sound of heavy rain and howling winds – what a dramatic transformation from the sunny, still, conditions a mere 12 hours ago! Given the gloomy weather, the long journey originally planned to KeriKeri seemed unsavoury to say the least. Over a leisurely breakfast we therefore formulated an alternative plan, which essentially involved scrapping the lengthy detour via Auckland around Northland. Instead, we would stop in Auckland and spend an extra day there to visit the many sites on offer in and around the city.

We thus departed the caravan park shortly before 10:00hrs and slowly made our way to Auckland, meandering our way along the narrow windy road around the Firth of Thomas, through Thomas, and eventually into Auckland. As we entered the greater suburban area, the heavy rain ceased and the clouds gave way to patches of blue sky. The gale force wind continued unabated however.

After check-in formalities at the Hotel were completed we headed straight for the Auckland Museum. This magnificiant building comprises three floors, the first on Maori culture and history, the second on New Zealand flora and fauna, past and present, with the 3^rd floor dedicated to the country’s military actions and traditions. As in Australia, the people of New Zealand are rightly proud of their military history under ANZAC, and it is very evident not just in the museum, but in every town and village that we frequented. It is perhaps especially poignant, given 1 in 5 of the population fought on behalf of the British in WW1; a ratio higher than any other Allied nation.

2.5 hours later we emerged to even stronger winds – perfect weather for a visit to Mount Eden, an extinct volcano overlooking the city and surrounding harbour. And the views didn’t disappoint, even if we did have to lean 45 degrees into the wind in order to remain on our feet. After snatching obligatory photos and video of the spectacular panoramic views we dived for cover among the restaurant and bars on Parnell Road. We then went hunting for groceries so Astrid could cook another sumptuous dinner when we returned to the motel later. However, with a few hours daylight still remaining, we first drove to the summit of another volcanic peak in Conwall park. Situated to the south of Mount Eden it affords better views of Manukau Harbour. Finally, after yet another brusing by the wind, and decidedly red faced from wind burn, we retreated back to the Hotel to soak aches and pains and defrost with more local grape-based anti-freeze.

Day 7 (12-Oct-2012) Rotorua - Coromandel

We awoke 06:00hrs in pools of nervous sweat, for at 09:15hrs we were to embark on a white water rafting trip down the Kaituna river, with the highlight being a drop over a 7m waterfall! In order to keep minds occupied, we first embarked on a leisurely drive around Rotorua, stopping off to visit yet more mud pools and view the many birds that have taken up residence along the shores of Lake Rotarua. The highlight was a chance encounter with a whole family of trumpet swans, comprising mother and SIX cygnets. The mother clearly looked exhausted, though her Herculean efforts had enabled all six fledglings to grow to a very healthy size. We initially intended to feed mother + offspring just one piece of bread, but they made it clear this was wholly insufficient, and it was simply impossible to ignore their cute pleas. We thus ended up sacrificing half a loaf!

We then drove to Okere Falls to meet the staff from Kaituna Cascades that were going to run us down the rapids. From start to finish the entire adventure was both exciting and action packed; a real adrenalin rush, made more enjoyable by the fact that we were the only two passengers in the dinghy! It was very well organised, and the helmsman and support crew were clearly very experienced, helping to allay any fears of immanent doom. The course itself passed through a very narrow gorge, covered in dense vegetation on both sides that arched across to block out most sunlight. The shafts of sunlight that did manage to penetrate the canopy seemed to transform the landscape into a very eerie place. However, we had little time to dwell on this observation, given our total focus on trying to stay inside the dingy.
 

Alas, Astrid was not up to the task, and so suddenly found herself paddling air rather than water going over the 7m water fall. Seeing her being launched out of the dingy faster than a Minuteman missile was truly hilarious – as evidenced by the many photos of Yours Sincerely doubled over in laughter waiting for her to climb back on board at the bottom of the falls. Much to her chagrin it should be said. Clearly, nothing could happen to top this incident, and so the rest of the day, while very enjoyable, was indeed an anticlimax. Of course, I mercilessly exploited every opportune moment during the subsequent 297km drive to Coromandel to embellish Astrid’s ‘sterling achievement’ to anyone who would listenJ.
 

After returning to the car we then headed off to Devils Gate, our last tour of a geothermal park. While somewhat ‘overloaded’ with boiling caldrons, mud pools, geysers and fumaroles, this park contained a number of unique attractions that made the visit entirely worthwhile. Firstly, it is the most active thermal park in New Zealand. Secondly, it is home to the only hydrothermal waterfall (Kakahi Falls) in the southern hemisphere and the only mud volcano in New Zealand. It is also home to the hottest water pools in New Zealand, with the surface temperature a ‘warm’ 122C, rising to 145C just 1m below the surface.
 

We then programmed Emillie to direct us to Coromandel, via Hahei. At Hahei, we walked to the famous Cathedral Cove, so named for the fact that it is only accessible by a cathedral like ‘doorway’ in the face of a cliff jutting out to sea. The very tortuous drive to Hahei, the subsequent walk to the cove, and the tour of the cove itself, all under clear blue skies, was very enjoyable. Very evidently, this part of New Zealand has breathtaking scenery.
 

Once in Coromandel, we checked into our cosy villa situated in a caravan park and then marched off for our first restaurant meal since arriving in New Zealand. It was VERY delicious.

Day 6 (11-Oct-2012) Taupo - Rotorua

After another leisurely start to the day we departed the hotel at 08:30hrs for Orakei Korako, or Hidden Valley, 40 minutes from Taupo by car. This place was the setting for the BBC Nature series ‘Walking with the Dinosaurs’, and so has attained a higher profile since the series was first broadcast. However, the geothermal park is remote, and only accessible by boat, which departs only on request. It is thus still rarely visited, even though Lonely Planet rates it as ‘possibly the best thermal park in New Zealand and one of the finest in the world’. Within the park is Ruatapa Cave, or Sacred Hole, which is a 120ft deep cave extending down into the earth. One of only two geothermal caves in known existence, Ruatapa hides a remarkable thermal hot pool at its bottom.

After taking in the sights and smells at Orakei Korako, we drove to Waiotapu, or Scared Water, which is another geothermal park. It is arguably the most colourful of all such parks in New Zealand, with hot pools ranging in colour from turquoise blue, rich green and gold, to an almost olive/yellow. The array of colours is caused by mineral salts in the water, including arsenic, gold and silver. Some of the coloured pools are situated next to bright white silica terracing, with the spectacular Champagne Pool being one of the best examples of the vibrant colours caused by mineral and silicate interference.  Aside to the multiple coloured water pools, we also encountered more mud pools, fumaroles and craters.

Intrigued by what we found, we then drove further along the Thermal Explorer Highway to Waimangu, or Black Water, just 20 minutes south of Rotarua. It is the only hydrothermal system in the world, whose creation can be traced to the eruption of Mount Tarawera on 10^th June 1886. The volcano lies on the ever-threatening Pacific ‘Ring of Fire’. The devastating explosion of ash and lava literally ripped the mountain in two, creating 22 separate active volcanic vents, which in turn gouging a 17km rift into the landscape. When the separate eruptions eventually stopped, 15 of the craters were slowly swallowed up by Lake Rotomahana, which swelled to twenty times its original size. The remaining 7 craters make up the thermal park, which is the youngest on Earth. One of the craters, the turquoise coloured Inferno Crater Lake, is the largest geyser-like feature in the world. Within 30 years of the devastating eruptions, the once barren slopes and walls of the dormant craters were reclaimed by flaura and fauna. Today, there is no hint remaining of the apocalyptic event, except for the hot pools and springs, one of which is the largest in the world.

After traipsing all day around hot smelly water, mud pools, springs, geysers and fumaroles, in warm sunny weather, we were eager to rest up, and so headed into Rotorua. Our hotel bordered another geothermal park, with views from our bedroom of Pohutu, or Big Splash, which is the most famous geyser in New Zealand.

Day 5 (10-Oct-2012) Taupo

As we did not have to check out of the Hotel today breakfast was a leisurely affair, after which we packed ruck sacks for the day’s adventure in Tongariro National Park. We then departed for Whakapapa village, a ski resort at the base of Mt Ruapehu, just under 100km from Taupo. The route borders Lake Taupo until Turangi, almost halfway to the ski resort. Once we turned off onto Highway 47, the weather turned ever more ominous as we gained altitude. By the time we reached Whakapapa, the car was buffeted by strong winds and we could hardly hear each other over the din of driving rain. With the cloud base several hundred feet below us, visibility had also been reduced to just a few feet only.

Facing such dire circumstances, the idea of hiking 17km around the base of Mt. Ruapehu to the saddle with Mt. Ngauruhoe seemed absurd. And so it was entirely the right thing to do! Properly equipped, we thus put best feet forward, thinking of queens (Elizabeth and Beatrix), countries (England and Holland), conquest and glory; all under the gaze of a bewildered local populace.  However, within 15 minutes our resolve was already severely tested, with the driving rain proving irksome in the extreme. Undeterred, we plodded onwards and upwards, reaching the turn off with the Taranaki Falls in just 30 minutes; half the time stipulated in the guide book.

We then angled off to the right towards the lower of the two Tama Lakes. At this point the Gods seem to have taken pity on us; halting the rain and slowly elevating the cloud base above our heads. Buoyed by the respite, we continued on our trek, and were eventually rewarded with patches of blue sky and the odd ray of sun to warm our chilled bodies. Finally, not only did the wind acquiesce, it changed direction also, helping to propel us up the saddle to the rim of the first lake, rather than attempting to hurl us backwards towards oblivion. These changing circumstances allowed us to reach the lake in just over another hour from Taranaki Falls, 1.5hrs quicker than stated in the guide book.

After marvelling at the turquoise lake for a few minutes we continued onwards and upwards to the upper lake. This was to be no pushover however, with the gale force winds and associated wind chill at the higher altitudes making for difficult conditions on the steep scree slope up the crater rim at the back of the first lake. We nonetheless did reach the end of the trail above the second lake. Unfortunately, the thick fog almost completely obscured views of the lake; scant reward for our efforts I thought! Regardless, with mission half accomplished, and with Mt. Ruapehu slowly revealing herself as the cloud base continued to rise, we were happy with the outcome.

The journey back to the car was uneventful, though the detour around Taranaki Falls was very delightful. On returning to the car we hugged a hot cuppa before then slowly making our way back to Taupo, snatching some good photos of the entire volcanic chain as we left Tongariro National Park. After a warm shower we toasted the day's achievement with a 'few' glasses of wine.

Day 4 (09-Oct-2012) Napier - Taupo

On departing the caravan park our first port of call was Napier Port - Bluff Hill Lookout above the port, to be more precise. From here we could look out across all of Hawke Bay, from Cape Kidnappers in the southeast to Mahia Peninsula in the northeast. We then headed northwest on the famed Thermal Explorer Highway towards Taupo, arriving just after noon. The highway traverses many passes, presenting travellers with jaw-dropping views of the valleys either side of each pass.  The highway also veers past a stunning waterfall, which was just one of a number that we visited today.

After lunch break in Taupo we drove off to see the famous Huka Falls. The volume of water plunging over these falls from Lake Taupo is truly staggering – 200,000l/s – a feat matched only by the deafening roar as the water hits the base of the 9m falls. Indeed, the flow rate is so fast that no native fish or eels are able to swim upstream, with none therefore found in Lake Taupo. We then drove downstream to see the magnificent Aratiatia rapids – a Grade 5 system where the water literally seems to boil in anger.

Suitably impressed by Nature’s aquatic powers, we headed off to glimpse another weapon in her armoury - volcanism. While not able to see any molten lava, we did get to witness a tell-tale sign that lava was not far below our feet. For at Craters Of The Moon there are a large number of fumaroles, craters and mud pools, all emitting the familiar smell of rotten eggs. It was an impressive sight, and a fitting way to end the day’s sight-seeing.

We then retreated to town to visit the information centre for the latest weather conditions in Tongariro National Park, a World Heritage Site. Alas, the forecast was not good, with 35mph winds expected at 1000m and 70 mph gusts at 2000m. To make matters worse, snow was due to fall as low as 1400m, with heavy rain or hail at lower altitudes. Our hopes of trekking the famous Tongariro Alpine Crossing had already been dashed before we left Australia, as Mount Tongariro had started erupting again on 12-Aug-12 - the first time in more than a century, forcing closure of half the track. We had thus hoped to tackle the next most popular route instead, the 17km circuit around the Tama Lakes. The lower lake is situated at 1240m and the higher at 1440m. The omens were not looking good therefore!

Now slightly downbeat, we went off in search of our lodgings for the night, followed by a sumptuous dinner (pasta smothered in fresh asparagus and salmon), cooked by Astrid, and washed down with more NZ plonk. We then elected to work off the gargantuan portions consumed with a walk through town. We ended the day by watching the sun set over the lake.