Day 4 (09-Oct-2012) Napier - Taupo

On departing the caravan park our first port of call was Napier Port - Bluff Hill Lookout above the port, to be more precise. From here we could look out across all of Hawke Bay, from Cape Kidnappers in the southeast to Mahia Peninsula in the northeast. We then headed northwest on the famed Thermal Explorer Highway towards Taupo, arriving just after noon. The highway traverses many passes, presenting travellers with jaw-dropping views of the valleys either side of each pass.  The highway also veers past a stunning waterfall, which was just one of a number that we visited today.

After lunch break in Taupo we drove off to see the famous Huka Falls. The volume of water plunging over these falls from Lake Taupo is truly staggering – 200,000l/s – a feat matched only by the deafening roar as the water hits the base of the 9m falls. Indeed, the flow rate is so fast that no native fish or eels are able to swim upstream, with none therefore found in Lake Taupo. We then drove downstream to see the magnificent Aratiatia rapids – a Grade 5 system where the water literally seems to boil in anger.

Suitably impressed by Nature’s aquatic powers, we headed off to glimpse another weapon in her armoury - volcanism. While not able to see any molten lava, we did get to witness a tell-tale sign that lava was not far below our feet. For at Craters Of The Moon there are a large number of fumaroles, craters and mud pools, all emitting the familiar smell of rotten eggs. It was an impressive sight, and a fitting way to end the day’s sight-seeing.

We then retreated to town to visit the information centre for the latest weather conditions in Tongariro National Park, a World Heritage Site. Alas, the forecast was not good, with 35mph winds expected at 1000m and 70 mph gusts at 2000m. To make matters worse, snow was due to fall as low as 1400m, with heavy rain or hail at lower altitudes. Our hopes of trekking the famous Tongariro Alpine Crossing had already been dashed before we left Australia, as Mount Tongariro had started erupting again on 12-Aug-12 - the first time in more than a century, forcing closure of half the track. We had thus hoped to tackle the next most popular route instead, the 17km circuit around the Tama Lakes. The lower lake is situated at 1240m and the higher at 1440m. The omens were not looking good therefore!

Now slightly downbeat, we went off in search of our lodgings for the night, followed by a sumptuous dinner (pasta smothered in fresh asparagus and salmon), cooked by Astrid, and washed down with more NZ plonk. We then elected to work off the gargantuan portions consumed with a walk through town. We ended the day by watching the sun set over the lake.