Day 9 (14-Oct-2012) Auckland

Yet another leisurely start to the day, this time greeted by milder but colder weather. Suitably wrapped up, we headed back to Mount Eden for better photos and video of the city skyline. We then drove over the Harbour Bridge to Davenport on the other side of Waitemata Harbour for different view of the CBD. Following quick stop for coffee we meandered our way up Mount Victoria to grab photos and video across the Rangitoto Channel.

 

We then elected to head across the Waitakere Range to Muriwai Beach, where there are three additional Gannet colonies. Here the viewing platforms are sited above the colonies, allowing us to capture photos and video looking down onto the many birds hovering over the colonies and gliding along the cliffs. With the winds again nearing gale force the birds simply had to spread their wings to take off, and stayed almost motionless as they held station over their perches – a truly amazing sight.

After taking our fill, and filling camera and camcorder memory cards in the process, we departed for Piha Beach, a beautiful secluded beach nestled into the western flanks of the Waitakere Range, which has been designated a national park.  Facing the Tasman Sea, this quaint village is accessible by a single windy road through the mountains. The black volcanic beach, sandwiched between steep sandstone cliffs, and buffeted by an angry emerald green sea below a blue sky, made for quite a photographic setting.
 

We then headed to Titirangi via the Arataki Visitor Centre, the start of the Hillary Trail, created by Edmund Hilary, who grew up in the Waitakere Range. The visitor centre also affords fabulous vistas over Manukau Harbour, houses an amazing collection of Maori art, in addition to numerous wildlife exhibits. By now the weather had broken and so we decided to drive over to Saint Heliers Bay, which offers views of Rangitoto Island across the Rangitoto Channel and also the CBD to the west. Before at last heading back to the hotel, we drove further around the coastline to Achilles Point for views across Tanaki Strait.

Day 8 (13-Oct-2012) Coromandel - Auckland

The hectic schedule of the past week finally took a toll on mind and body, with sleep sweeping over us as soon as we returned from dinner last night, until 07:30hrs this morning. When we did awaken, it was to the sound of heavy rain and howling winds – what a dramatic transformation from the sunny, still, conditions a mere 12 hours ago! Given the gloomy weather, the long journey originally planned to KeriKeri seemed unsavoury to say the least. Over a leisurely breakfast we therefore formulated an alternative plan, which essentially involved scrapping the lengthy detour via Auckland around Northland. Instead, we would stop in Auckland and spend an extra day there to visit the many sites on offer in and around the city.

We thus departed the caravan park shortly before 10:00hrs and slowly made our way to Auckland, meandering our way along the narrow windy road around the Firth of Thomas, through Thomas, and eventually into Auckland. As we entered the greater suburban area, the heavy rain ceased and the clouds gave way to patches of blue sky. The gale force wind continued unabated however.

After check-in formalities at the Hotel were completed we headed straight for the Auckland Museum. This magnificiant building comprises three floors, the first on Maori culture and history, the second on New Zealand flora and fauna, past and present, with the 3^rd floor dedicated to the country’s military actions and traditions. As in Australia, the people of New Zealand are rightly proud of their military history under ANZAC, and it is very evident not just in the museum, but in every town and village that we frequented. It is perhaps especially poignant, given 1 in 5 of the population fought on behalf of the British in WW1; a ratio higher than any other Allied nation.

2.5 hours later we emerged to even stronger winds – perfect weather for a visit to Mount Eden, an extinct volcano overlooking the city and surrounding harbour. And the views didn’t disappoint, even if we did have to lean 45 degrees into the wind in order to remain on our feet. After snatching obligatory photos and video of the spectacular panoramic views we dived for cover among the restaurant and bars on Parnell Road. We then went hunting for groceries so Astrid could cook another sumptuous dinner when we returned to the motel later. However, with a few hours daylight still remaining, we first drove to the summit of another volcanic peak in Conwall park. Situated to the south of Mount Eden it affords better views of Manukau Harbour. Finally, after yet another brusing by the wind, and decidedly red faced from wind burn, we retreated back to the Hotel to soak aches and pains and defrost with more local grape-based anti-freeze.

Day 7 (12-Oct-2012) Rotorua - Coromandel

We awoke 06:00hrs in pools of nervous sweat, for at 09:15hrs we were to embark on a white water rafting trip down the Kaituna river, with the highlight being a drop over a 7m waterfall! In order to keep minds occupied, we first embarked on a leisurely drive around Rotorua, stopping off to visit yet more mud pools and view the many birds that have taken up residence along the shores of Lake Rotarua. The highlight was a chance encounter with a whole family of trumpet swans, comprising mother and SIX cygnets. The mother clearly looked exhausted, though her Herculean efforts had enabled all six fledglings to grow to a very healthy size. We initially intended to feed mother + offspring just one piece of bread, but they made it clear this was wholly insufficient, and it was simply impossible to ignore their cute pleas. We thus ended up sacrificing half a loaf!

We then drove to Okere Falls to meet the staff from Kaituna Cascades that were going to run us down the rapids. From start to finish the entire adventure was both exciting and action packed; a real adrenalin rush, made more enjoyable by the fact that we were the only two passengers in the dinghy! It was very well organised, and the helmsman and support crew were clearly very experienced, helping to allay any fears of immanent doom. The course itself passed through a very narrow gorge, covered in dense vegetation on both sides that arched across to block out most sunlight. The shafts of sunlight that did manage to penetrate the canopy seemed to transform the landscape into a very eerie place. However, we had little time to dwell on this observation, given our total focus on trying to stay inside the dingy.
 

Alas, Astrid was not up to the task, and so suddenly found herself paddling air rather than water going over the 7m water fall. Seeing her being launched out of the dingy faster than a Minuteman missile was truly hilarious – as evidenced by the many photos of Yours Sincerely doubled over in laughter waiting for her to climb back on board at the bottom of the falls. Much to her chagrin it should be said. Clearly, nothing could happen to top this incident, and so the rest of the day, while very enjoyable, was indeed an anticlimax. Of course, I mercilessly exploited every opportune moment during the subsequent 297km drive to Coromandel to embellish Astrid’s ‘sterling achievement’ to anyone who would listenJ.
 

After returning to the car we then headed off to Devils Gate, our last tour of a geothermal park. While somewhat ‘overloaded’ with boiling caldrons, mud pools, geysers and fumaroles, this park contained a number of unique attractions that made the visit entirely worthwhile. Firstly, it is the most active thermal park in New Zealand. Secondly, it is home to the only hydrothermal waterfall (Kakahi Falls) in the southern hemisphere and the only mud volcano in New Zealand. It is also home to the hottest water pools in New Zealand, with the surface temperature a ‘warm’ 122C, rising to 145C just 1m below the surface.
 

We then programmed Emillie to direct us to Coromandel, via Hahei. At Hahei, we walked to the famous Cathedral Cove, so named for the fact that it is only accessible by a cathedral like ‘doorway’ in the face of a cliff jutting out to sea. The very tortuous drive to Hahei, the subsequent walk to the cove, and the tour of the cove itself, all under clear blue skies, was very enjoyable. Very evidently, this part of New Zealand has breathtaking scenery.
 

Once in Coromandel, we checked into our cosy villa situated in a caravan park and then marched off for our first restaurant meal since arriving in New Zealand. It was VERY delicious.

Day 6 (11-Oct-2012) Taupo - Rotorua

After another leisurely start to the day we departed the hotel at 08:30hrs for Orakei Korako, or Hidden Valley, 40 minutes from Taupo by car. This place was the setting for the BBC Nature series ‘Walking with the Dinosaurs’, and so has attained a higher profile since the series was first broadcast. However, the geothermal park is remote, and only accessible by boat, which departs only on request. It is thus still rarely visited, even though Lonely Planet rates it as ‘possibly the best thermal park in New Zealand and one of the finest in the world’. Within the park is Ruatapa Cave, or Sacred Hole, which is a 120ft deep cave extending down into the earth. One of only two geothermal caves in known existence, Ruatapa hides a remarkable thermal hot pool at its bottom.

After taking in the sights and smells at Orakei Korako, we drove to Waiotapu, or Scared Water, which is another geothermal park. It is arguably the most colourful of all such parks in New Zealand, with hot pools ranging in colour from turquoise blue, rich green and gold, to an almost olive/yellow. The array of colours is caused by mineral salts in the water, including arsenic, gold and silver. Some of the coloured pools are situated next to bright white silica terracing, with the spectacular Champagne Pool being one of the best examples of the vibrant colours caused by mineral and silicate interference.  Aside to the multiple coloured water pools, we also encountered more mud pools, fumaroles and craters.

Intrigued by what we found, we then drove further along the Thermal Explorer Highway to Waimangu, or Black Water, just 20 minutes south of Rotarua. It is the only hydrothermal system in the world, whose creation can be traced to the eruption of Mount Tarawera on 10^th June 1886. The volcano lies on the ever-threatening Pacific ‘Ring of Fire’. The devastating explosion of ash and lava literally ripped the mountain in two, creating 22 separate active volcanic vents, which in turn gouging a 17km rift into the landscape. When the separate eruptions eventually stopped, 15 of the craters were slowly swallowed up by Lake Rotomahana, which swelled to twenty times its original size. The remaining 7 craters make up the thermal park, which is the youngest on Earth. One of the craters, the turquoise coloured Inferno Crater Lake, is the largest geyser-like feature in the world. Within 30 years of the devastating eruptions, the once barren slopes and walls of the dormant craters were reclaimed by flaura and fauna. Today, there is no hint remaining of the apocalyptic event, except for the hot pools and springs, one of which is the largest in the world.

After traipsing all day around hot smelly water, mud pools, springs, geysers and fumaroles, in warm sunny weather, we were eager to rest up, and so headed into Rotorua. Our hotel bordered another geothermal park, with views from our bedroom of Pohutu, or Big Splash, which is the most famous geyser in New Zealand.

Day 5 (10-Oct-2012) Taupo

As we did not have to check out of the Hotel today breakfast was a leisurely affair, after which we packed ruck sacks for the day’s adventure in Tongariro National Park. We then departed for Whakapapa village, a ski resort at the base of Mt Ruapehu, just under 100km from Taupo. The route borders Lake Taupo until Turangi, almost halfway to the ski resort. Once we turned off onto Highway 47, the weather turned ever more ominous as we gained altitude. By the time we reached Whakapapa, the car was buffeted by strong winds and we could hardly hear each other over the din of driving rain. With the cloud base several hundred feet below us, visibility had also been reduced to just a few feet only.

Facing such dire circumstances, the idea of hiking 17km around the base of Mt. Ruapehu to the saddle with Mt. Ngauruhoe seemed absurd. And so it was entirely the right thing to do! Properly equipped, we thus put best feet forward, thinking of queens (Elizabeth and Beatrix), countries (England and Holland), conquest and glory; all under the gaze of a bewildered local populace.  However, within 15 minutes our resolve was already severely tested, with the driving rain proving irksome in the extreme. Undeterred, we plodded onwards and upwards, reaching the turn off with the Taranaki Falls in just 30 minutes; half the time stipulated in the guide book.

We then angled off to the right towards the lower of the two Tama Lakes. At this point the Gods seem to have taken pity on us; halting the rain and slowly elevating the cloud base above our heads. Buoyed by the respite, we continued on our trek, and were eventually rewarded with patches of blue sky and the odd ray of sun to warm our chilled bodies. Finally, not only did the wind acquiesce, it changed direction also, helping to propel us up the saddle to the rim of the first lake, rather than attempting to hurl us backwards towards oblivion. These changing circumstances allowed us to reach the lake in just over another hour from Taranaki Falls, 1.5hrs quicker than stated in the guide book.

After marvelling at the turquoise lake for a few minutes we continued onwards and upwards to the upper lake. This was to be no pushover however, with the gale force winds and associated wind chill at the higher altitudes making for difficult conditions on the steep scree slope up the crater rim at the back of the first lake. We nonetheless did reach the end of the trail above the second lake. Unfortunately, the thick fog almost completely obscured views of the lake; scant reward for our efforts I thought! Regardless, with mission half accomplished, and with Mt. Ruapehu slowly revealing herself as the cloud base continued to rise, we were happy with the outcome.

The journey back to the car was uneventful, though the detour around Taranaki Falls was very delightful. On returning to the car we hugged a hot cuppa before then slowly making our way back to Taupo, snatching some good photos of the entire volcanic chain as we left Tongariro National Park. After a warm shower we toasted the day's achievement with a 'few' glasses of wine.

Day 4 (09-Oct-2012) Napier - Taupo

On departing the caravan park our first port of call was Napier Port - Bluff Hill Lookout above the port, to be more precise. From here we could look out across all of Hawke Bay, from Cape Kidnappers in the southeast to Mahia Peninsula in the northeast. We then headed northwest on the famed Thermal Explorer Highway towards Taupo, arriving just after noon. The highway traverses many passes, presenting travellers with jaw-dropping views of the valleys either side of each pass.  The highway also veers past a stunning waterfall, which was just one of a number that we visited today.

After lunch break in Taupo we drove off to see the famous Huka Falls. The volume of water plunging over these falls from Lake Taupo is truly staggering – 200,000l/s – a feat matched only by the deafening roar as the water hits the base of the 9m falls. Indeed, the flow rate is so fast that no native fish or eels are able to swim upstream, with none therefore found in Lake Taupo. We then drove downstream to see the magnificent Aratiatia rapids – a Grade 5 system where the water literally seems to boil in anger.

Suitably impressed by Nature’s aquatic powers, we headed off to glimpse another weapon in her armoury - volcanism. While not able to see any molten lava, we did get to witness a tell-tale sign that lava was not far below our feet. For at Craters Of The Moon there are a large number of fumaroles, craters and mud pools, all emitting the familiar smell of rotten eggs. It was an impressive sight, and a fitting way to end the day’s sight-seeing.

We then retreated to town to visit the information centre for the latest weather conditions in Tongariro National Park, a World Heritage Site. Alas, the forecast was not good, with 35mph winds expected at 1000m and 70 mph gusts at 2000m. To make matters worse, snow was due to fall as low as 1400m, with heavy rain or hail at lower altitudes. Our hopes of trekking the famous Tongariro Alpine Crossing had already been dashed before we left Australia, as Mount Tongariro had started erupting again on 12-Aug-12 - the first time in more than a century, forcing closure of half the track. We had thus hoped to tackle the next most popular route instead, the 17km circuit around the Tama Lakes. The lower lake is situated at 1240m and the higher at 1440m. The omens were not looking good therefore!

Now slightly downbeat, we went off in search of our lodgings for the night, followed by a sumptuous dinner (pasta smothered in fresh asparagus and salmon), cooked by Astrid, and washed down with more NZ plonk. We then elected to work off the gargantuan portions consumed with a walk through town. We ended the day by watching the sun set over the lake. 

Day 3 (08-Oct-2012) Wellington - Napier

In contrast to the sunny conditions experienced yesterday, dawn heralded arrival of thick clouds and downpours. Unperturbed, we departed 07:45hrs in the direction of Napier, via the stunning Hutt Valley. Mindful of the need to be in Te Awanga by 13:15hrs, we did not stop too often to film the ever changing landscapes. Suffice to say our spirits were lifted by clearing skies and stunning scenery, arriving just in time at Te Awanga for one of the most highly anticipated excursions of the holiday – a trip to see the world famous Gannet colonies at Cape Kidnappers!
 

This 4-hour excursion took us through very spectacular countryside that sits astride the Pacific and Indo-Australian tectonic plates. The bus actually stopped at the exact spot where the Pacific plate is being subducted below the Australasia plate – as evidenced by a sudden and dramatic discontinuity in the stratigraphy.  On 03-02-31 a 7.8 magnitude earthquake centered just 15km north of nearby Napier destroyed the city. Hundreds of more minor tremors occur every year in this region, acting as a constant reminder of the slow inexorable movement of these giant plates. This movement has also resulted in a very dramatic undulating topography, most of it unnavigable by any form of land transport.

And this is why the Gannet’s took up residence here, with the colonies positively thriving (growing at 2% per year). Indeed, new colonies had to be established to accommodate the growing population, with total of four colonies now situated at Cape Kidnappers. As the photos and video attest, they are beautiful birds, using their 2m wing span to master the skies. As with other large sea birds however, they have not mastered take-off or landing skills, resulting in some very comical collisions, summersaults, belly flops and bruised egos.

While we could have stayed hours watching these magnificent creatures, we had to be dragged away back to Te Awanga before dark. After picking up a few bottles of local grape to reflect on today’s proceedings we headed off to find our accommodation at a caravan park the other side of Napier. Once suitably imbibed, we headed into Napier to glimpse its famous Art Deco architecture. After the 1931 earthquake, the entire city centre was rebuilt in this style, which was popular at the time.

Day 2 (07-Oct-2012) New Plymouth - Wellington

We awoke fully refreshed at 06:00hrs and were back on the road shortly before 07:00hrs, eager to catch a glimpse of Mount Taranaki on route to Wellington before the clouds rolled in. Alas, after I dropped the key back inside the room via small gap in the window, Astrid asked if I had remembered to pick up the passports and her wallet from the sink drawer – OOPS! Since reception wasn’t open for at least another hour, we elected to (again) rush back to North Egmond visitor centre on Mount Taranaki for view of the summit in the interim. It soon became a race against the clouds, but despite putting our hairdryer-on-wheels into overdrive (boiling off most of the water in the radiator in the process) the clouds won; covering the summit in thick cloud just as we arrived. All in all not a great start to the day L.

We then headed back to the Hotel, only to find that reception was not open until 09:00hrs on a Sunday – bad karma had struck thrice! In a moment of inspiration however, Astrid suggested we might be able retrieve the keys using our hiking poles. After some perseverance we succeeded! With passports and wallets at last in hand we embarked on our intended journey to Wellington. As we passed through Egmond village (for the 4^th time in less than 24 hours), the clouds slowly parted to provide tantalising glimpses of Mount Taranaki’s snow covered summit cone. By the time we reached Inglewood the whole summit cone was visible, which has a striking resemblance to Cotapaxi in Colombia. And what a stunning imposing backdrop for the citizens of New Plymouth to wake up to each day.

As the hours passed the weather continued to improve, such that by the time we stopped to stretch limbs on the beach at Paraparaumu, there was not a cloud in sight. We eventually arrived at the hotel in Wellington shortly after 14:00hrs. After dumping ruck sacks in the room we immediately set off for tour of the city, stopping first at Mount Victoria for glorious vista of the city and the bay. We then headed to Owhiro bay for glimpse of the rugged coastline to the south. We then made our way to a wind farm on the hills above Happy Valley Road for further glorious views over Wellington and the coastline.

After quick pit stop back at the hotel we then drove over to the botanical gardens for yet more panoramic views of the city, before finally heading off for a night time guided walk through Zealandia, a pristine 500 acre habitat of native fauna and flora devoid of introduced species. Of course our big hope was to see little spotted kiwis in their native environment, and we were not to be disappointed!  During the 2.5hr excursion we came across two kiwis, along with menagerie of other exotic and rare critters. It was a fantastic way to end an enjoyable (and exhausting day).

Day 1 (06-Oct-2012) Brisbane - New Plymouth

Departed office mid-afternoon on Friday 05-Oct-12 to leave just enough time for quick shower before the taxi arrived to take us to the airport. Flight departed on time two hours later, arriving in Auckland just after mid-night. After passing through immigration/quarantine formalities we collected the rental car (an old Nissan Sunny which has already covered 130,547km!) and drove through the night to New Plymouth. The journey involved having to endure howling gales, torrential rain, and a highly tortuous route, leaving us feeling very tired as we pulled into our Hotel at 06:10hrs. We thus took a short nap in the car waiting for the motel to ‘wake up’ at 07:30hrs.

After dumping our bags in the room we then immediately drove to the visitor centre on the flanks of Mount Taranaki (Mt Egmond). Braving the elements (fierce winds, cold and sleet) we embarked on (hurried) hike around the Veronia Loop Track, hoping for grand views of the summit and surrounding countryside – alas we were to be sorely disappointedL. That said, the hike through the dense sub-tropical rainforest, draped in moss and lichens, was very rewarding.

We then beat a hasty retreat back to town to load up on provisions and revive exhausted batteries with a cuppa. This was followed by a visit to the beach for a view of the Tasman Sea, which had been whipped up into a frenzy by the strong winds. The emerald green colour also looked less than inviting. After being chilled to the bone we elected to take a climb up Pukekura Rock for a panoramic view of the bay and Mt. Taranaki – NOT! Crest fallen, we headed off to Brookland Park for a hike through ancient native sub-tropical rain forest, which was truly spectacular. On arrival at the park we first took a tour of the small zoo, which, contrary to expectations, homes very endangered species from other countries (including the Gold  Tamarin – which is very cute, yet clearly unimpressed by his cold alien surroundings).

We then headed back to the coast for hike along the New Plymouth Costal Walkway, in anticipation of a more hospitable experience, which it was. In actual fact, I did the hiking while Astrid snoozed in the car. Finally, at 16:30hrs, with minds dulled, we limped back to the motel to finalise preparations for the trip to Wellington and cook dinner. Needless to say heads hit the pillow early!