Day 6 (10-May-2009) Kokoda - Deniki

After reading so much about the Kokoda Campaign, and the significance of Kokoda itself, you couldn’t help but try to picture the place as it was 67 years ago, with the legendary ‘Chocos’ emerging from the jungle, first to defend Kokoda, then moving north to attack, then being forced to retreat back to Deniki, and finally being moved forward again to defend Kokoda – just 77 of them to fend off 1000+ elite Japanese troops. This was the back-drop for our morning visit to the Kokoda war memorial and accompanying museum; a solemn experience, as it should be.

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We were then introduced to the porters that would feed us (carry us if need be), plus some of our personal kit for the next 8 days to Owers’ Corner on the far side of the Owen Stanley Range. They carried only bare essentials for themselves, wore even less, with some clearly preferring bare feet to boots. We ‘Long Pig’ on the other hand emerged from our billets wearing the latest-and-greatest trekking fashion, plus whatever ‘cool’ accessories we could lay our hands on! Darren clearly was in his element, packing more gadgets than Inspector Gadget!

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And so under the smirking gaze of our Aboriginal brothers, we departed Kokoda around noon for Hoi village. The going was deceptively easy, only to then find the way forward blockaded by villagers, who felt very aggrieved by failure of government officials to fairly compensate them for allowing passage to trekkers through their lands. The exchanges were vociferous at times, but after 1.5hrs we were allowed through, with our gaze firmly fixed on the track for fear of exciting their ‘head-hunting’ proclivity. The route towards Deniki then rose sharply, with the heavens opening for the daily deluge at 14:30hrs. We eventually limped into Deniki around 16:00hrs, noticing a decided chill in the air. Washing of clothes and bodily parts, in torrential rain, under a very cold bamboo shower, was a far cry from the warm ocean dips enjoyed just two days before!!! However, this minor discomfort was more than compensated by the views across the Kokoda valley as the skies cleared and the sun set – bloody marvellous.

Day 5 (09-May-2009) Buna - Kokoda

Up, fed, ablutions done and packed by 09:00hrs, in anticipation of an early departure back to Popondetta – NOT! The truck eventually arrived after midday, with journey back to town every bit as uncomfortable as the one to Buna. After later lunch back in the open air museum we at last headed for Kokoda – another 2hr bone-crushing journey in the flatbed truck. The journey used to take less time, but a major cyclone slammed into PNG in 2007, with the subsequent floods knocking out all the river crossings. On arrival at the Kumusi River therefore, which was in full flood, this meant having to be ferried across raging rapids in large inflated inner tubes – much to Simon’s consternation given his limited swimming prowess. The onward journey to Kokoda itself by police 4x4 was uneventful, arriving just after dark.

Day 4 (07-May-2009) Buna

Following usual routine of ocean dip and frugal breakfast we clambered into a motor launch for a 1hr boat trip to Gona, a very much larger settlement, but equally picturesque. It too has been rebuilt after being totally destroyed during intense fighting to ouster Japanese forces (On 09-Dec-42 Gona was the first of the three coastal Japanese strongholds to fall, prompting Col. R. Honner to send his famous message ‘Gona’s Gone!’). No visible trace remains of the battlefields, with the obliterated, tree-less and cratered landscape, reminiscent of WWI carnage, reclaimed by the jungle.

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After strolling through some of the town’s attractions Simon managed to amuse pupils at a local school (and the rest of us) with his command of the 3 R’s. Sensing defeat we beat a hasty retreat by boat back to Buna for lunch. After another dip, we then headed back to old Buna via the beachhead rather than the interior route, hoping to make a few phone calls and, bowing to mental weakness, sink a few more beers. Alas, while we were successful at least getting out a few SMS messages, the town was completely dry! However, we were partially compensated by a most magnificent sunset on the way home – and that’s saying something having lived in the Tropics for 10 years.

Day 3 (06-May-2009) Buna

With no electricity for miles around the day began with a soothing dip in the ocean to ‘kill three birds with one stone’ – wash, and flushing of No. 1 & 2 tubes! Following fibre-filled breakfast we then strolled back to old Buna for the morning. Here we got to inspect relics leftover from WWII - all manner of personal and military pariphalanea – which still litters the surrounding jungle. We also visited number of imposing defensive fortifications erected by the Japanese, a still visible sobering testament to their deadly fire power and the resultant heavy casualties inflicted - 1522 Australian dead in a 9-week campaign.

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Following quick chat with the ‘native chaps’ at the local market we guzzled some of the local hooch before then sauntering back to our ‘Hotel’ for lunch. Following another ocean dip we then walked west along the coast to Sanananda. Like Buna the village was relocated after WWII, with the old site (scene of some of the most bitter fighting), lost to the jungle. If anything, the new site is more beautiful that at Buna, with modern amenities available also - showers and sit-down toilet, though no flush. We returned to Buna just before dark for another ocean dip, followed by a very unmemorable dinner, washed down with more banter.

Day 2 (05-May-2009) Port Moresby - Buna

After re-packing rucksacks for a 4th time the three of us plus our Australian guide Dave headed out to the airport for an early flight to Popondetta, a 40 minute hop over the Owen Stanley Range. We were accompanied by Thomas, who would be our head porter on the trek coming back in the opposite direction. Should anyone still doubt the labours that await you on this route the views of the sharply folded vertiginous terrain below will serve as compelling evidence.

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On arrival we immediately clambered onto a flatbed truck for the 30km trip to town, together with numerous other ‘passengers’. Once in Popondetta, the truck pulled into a supermarket to obtain more provisions. Meanwhile, the four of us visited a nearby open air museum recalling the brutal engagements that took place driving the Japanese from their beachheads at Gona, Sanananda and Buna in early 1943. There is little left however to conjure the scenes of unimaginable horror and depravity that greeted Australian forces, where out of desperation the Japanese had resorted to cannibalism.

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We then embarked on a 2-hour drive along a barely passable track to old Buna, arriving shortly after midday. Following a short hike along the coast we reached our final destination, new Buna, an idyllic settlement on the beach shore. Rest of the day was spent frequenting ourselves with our new home, followed by a short hike up the coast to stretch the legs and take in some of the beautiful scenery. On our return just before sunset the ‘Village People’ had turned out in local costume to perform for us – an entertaining affair, with Simon and Darren joining in with a disparaging version of ‘Do The Funky Chicken’. After obligatory photo shoot we sat down to dinner, washed down with some cerebral chit-chat.

Day 1 (04-May-2009) Singapore - Port Moresby

“Imagine an area of approximately 100 miles long, crumple and fold this into a series of ridges, each rising higher and higher until 7,000 feet is reached, then declining again to 3,000feet. Cover this thickly with jungle, short trees and tall trees tangled with great entwining savage vines; then through the oppression of this density cut a little native track two to three feet wide, up the ridges, over the spurs, around gorges and down across swiftly flowing happy mountain streams.
Where the track clambers up the mountainsides, cut steps – big steps, little steps, steep steps or clear the soil from the tree roots. Every few miles bring the track through a small patch of sunlit kunai grass, or an old deserted native garden, and every seven or ten miles build a group of dilapidated grass huts as staging shelters, generally set in a foul offensive clearing. Every now and then leave beside the track dumps of discarded putrefying food, and occasional dead bodies. In the morning flicker the sunlight through the tall trees, flutter green and blue and purple and white butterflies lazily through the air, and hide birds of deep-throated song or harsh cockatoos in the foliage.

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About midday and through the night, pour water over the forest, so that the steps become broken and a continual yellow stream flows downwards, and the few level areas become pools and puddles of putrid mud. In the high ridges about Myola, drip this water day and night softly over the track through a fetid forest grotesque with moss and growing phosphorescent fungi.”

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This is the Kokoda Track, where in June 1942 young, ill-equipped, Australian militia where propelled in front of a numerically superior, vastly more experienced, fanatical and well-disciplined Japanese army. It was a place where the pain of effort, the biting sweat, the hunger, the cheerless, shivering nights were made dim by exhaustion’s merciful embrace. Surely no war was ever fought under worse conditions than these. Surely no war has ever demanded more of a man in fortitude.

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But although this terrain would gain infamy as 'A Bastard of a Place', you would be wrong to think harshly of it. For though Kokoda Track claimed some of Australia's finest sons, it is the crucible that forged the spirit of a nation in peril and a witness to “Courage”, “Sacrifice”, “Mateship” and “Endurance” that against all odds led to the first defeat of Japanese land forces in the Pacific War.

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So this was the setting for a trek by three longtime friends across PNG, where they at least hoped to experience “Mateship” and a little of the “Endurance” on display 67 years before. And they also set themselves four simple goals:-
· To complete the trek
· To take nothing but photographs and leave nothing but footprints
· To ensure not one utterance of complaint passed their lips
· To ensure what was said on the track, stayed on the track!
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And so on 05-May-09 Darren & I travelled together from Singapore to Port Moresby, arriving following morning, with Simon joining us later that day via Brisbane. This first day was spent checking kit lists, buying food supplements for the trek ahead and touring the suburbs following a delicious lunch stop.

Life in Singapore

Dubai 22-Feb-2001 to 25-Oct-2008

Singapore 26-Oct-2008 to date