Day 13 (03-Jan-13) Bourke - Brisbane (912 km)

As the alarm failed to go off we did not awake until 07:20hrs. However, having become so practised at preparing breakfast, packing clothes and food, and loading up the car, we nonetheless found ourselves departing the motel at 07:50hrs. Even at this modest hour the mercury was off the scale, with air temperature climbing to over 40C by noon. Fortunately, travel eastward out of The Outback to Goondiwindi was 'a breeze', with very little traffic to contend with, and road conditions on the byways being surprisingly good. However, the excessive amount of road kill encountered on route completely sapped all pleasure, and would definitely dent tourism to the region.

 

Owing to the time zone change crossing into Queensland, we arrived in Goondiwindi at just after noon. With the town offering little by way of entertainment, and with both of us still feeling relatively fresh, we pondered whether to push through all the way to Brisbane, rather than prolong the holiday another day. Following 'consultations' with Emilie it soon became apparent that we could reach home long before dark, and possibly before the evening rush hour. We thus decided to forge ahead, maintaining strict adherence to a 2-hour driver changeover schedule that we had instigated on leaving Jindabyne. ('Stop, Revive, Survive').

 

Though the roads became ever more crowded the closer we approached Brisbane, we nonetheless managed to precisely match Emilie's ETA prediction of 16:32 hrs. On arrival our trusted steed had covered 912 km since leaving Bourke, with total distance travelled during our 'Mega Transect' of SE Australia, spanning 5 states, being just 7km short of 6,000km! While we could simply bask in such impressive statistics and reflect on the amazing experiences that we shared during the holiday, thoughts are already turning to our next great adventure. Where shall we go? What can we do? What new records can we set? Watch this space.....

Day 12 (02-Jan-13) Broken Hill - Bourke (633 km)

Today's drive through The Outback did not disappoint, living up to its reputation as being very HOT, and very BIG. We also managed to glimpse more live animals than dead ones to help break up the manotony. There is nothing else to add, except we arrived safely and without incident in Bourke, which if anything has decayed to a much greater extent than Broken Hill. It doesn't even have a pub!!!

HOT photos...

BIG photos...

ANIMAL photos...

 

Day 11 (01-Jan-13) Adelaide - Broken Hill (551 km)

For the first time in our adult lives we were unable to see in the New Year, with tiredness sweeping over us by 22:00hrs the evening before. Fortunately, we did nonetheless manage to witness a spectacular fireworks display in the centre of town. This is because for the past few years the city has arranged two separate displays, one at 21:00hrs for families with young children, and another at midnight. While very tired, we were alas denied a good nights sleep, as the hotel is situated close to the night club district! The peace and serenity of our hotel room was thus shattered by thumping music until just past 04:00hrs, with some revellers found still celebrating when we left the Hotel at 08:15hrs.

 

The journey to Broken Hill via the famous Barossa Valley and the mining community of Burra took place under clear blue skies and an inexorably increasing air temperature. The route was straightforward and the road surface surprisingly good, with cruise control set at 110 km/hr. Following a few pit stops to refuel, rejuvenate and take in the changing scenery, we arrived in Broken Hill at 15:15hrs, having managed to successfully avoid hitting any emus and kangaroos. We deemed this a major accomplishment, given the amount of road kill encountered. We also encountered a few dust devils, with one in particular being very spectacular.

 

On arrival in Broken Hill we at first thought we had arrived in a ghost town, for there was no traffic, all the shops and bars were shut, and we saw no people. We therefore elected to first check in to our bungalow at the edge of town before heading into the town centre for a little exploratory walk. With air temperatures hovering slightly above 38C we decided to take it slow, with the walk down the high street a decidedly sedentary affair. After capturing obligatory photos and video as evidence of our stay we headed up to the mine museum situated at the top of a giant slag heap that surrounds one side of the city. Alas, like the rest of the town, it was shut, but the views were spectacular.

Day 10 (31-Dec-12) - Adelaide (260 km)

Given the intense cold experienced the previous two days diving with a 5mm wet suit, the thought of entering the water with just a T-Shirt to go snorkling at Edithburgh was deemed less than desirable. Consequently, we elected instead for more overland adventures. Departing the hotel at 08:00hrs, we first drove to Lake Alexandrina, via Strathalbyn. This very large and shallow lake was named after Princess Alexandrina, niece and successor of King William IV, who of course ultimately became Queen Victoria. It is located to the east of Fleurieu Peninsula and drains the Murray River, with the lake emptying into the sea near Goolwa (the channel is known as the Murray Mouth), but when the river flow is low the entrance is often blocked by a sand-bar. Though connected to the ocean historically the fresh and salt water flows mixed very little, with the lake area remaining fresh over 95% of the time with normal river inflow. The lake is now maintained as fresh water by a series of barrages across the islands near the Murray Mouth. The lake is a haven for marshland and sea birds, with Astrid at one point able to capture pelicans, indigenous geese, ducks, shags, ibis, terns and Gulls - in the same photo!

We then headed to Mannum via Murray Bridge for views of the paddle steamers that still ply the Murray River, although these days they carry tourists rather than cargo. Captain Sturt sailed past the present site of Mannum in 1830 and proved on that trip that the Murray Darling system terminated at the sea.William Randell, who worked at his father's flourmill in Gumeracha, was the first to build a paddle steamer on the Murray. He, and his brother, Thomas, together with a carpenter, built the frame and transported it to their father's river property by bullock cart. There, they finished it in 1852 and named it the ‘Mary Ann' after their mother. Within a decade paddle steamers would trade goods along a 1000km stretch of the river, transforming the economy of South Australia, much as paddle steamers had transformed the economies of the states bordering the Mississippi in the USA.

 

Following brief pit stop we returned to Adelaide via Palmer, Mount Torrens, Lobethal, the Forest Range, Basket Range, Ashton and Magill, before finally reaching our intended destination - Adelaide Zoo. Though we have visited many safari parks and nature reserves over the years, this particular zoo is home to two very special animals, the only two in the whole of the southern hemisphere, and belonging to a species that is now synonymous with animal conservation - the Giant Panda :-). We had fully expected the Panda enclosure to be packed with visitors hoping for a glimpse of these cuddly critters. However, given the date, and with air temperatures hovering at a brutal 36C, the zoo was very quiet. Incredulously therefore, for the last half hour prior to closing, Astrid and I suddenly found ourselves alone with the two Pandas - what a way to end the year!!! During that half hour Astrid interacted and took photos of Wang Wang, while I took video of Funi. We were eventually 'evicted' from the zoo at 16:45hrs - the last two visitors to leave. We then drove the short distance back to the Hotel to reflect on an amazing day, a fabulous holiday and a hectic 2012.

Day 9 (30-Dec-12) - Victor Harbour - Adelaide (135 km)

Again an early start, with the alarm set for 05:45hrs. This enabled us to have a hearty breakfast (Drovers Platter) before packing up the car and heading off at 07:05hrs to West Beach, just west of Adelaide. We departed the motel under thick cloud, but once we reached the leeward side of the peninsula, we found ourselves bathed in glorious sunshine. We arrived at West Beach at 08:15hrs, with Kym already waiting for us with all our diving gear. Following usual diving brief we headed down to the jetty to board the inflatable speed boat that was to take us out to a dredger that had been intentionally sunk in the '80s to create an artificial reef. Alas, one of the twin 250hp outboard engines would not start, which meant having to abandon plans to dive the wreck. Instead, we headed out on one engine to a natural reef closer to shore.

Visibility was good, but out in the open and at depth the water was even colder than yesterday, with Astrid shivering badly once we exited the water 45 minutes later. Thankfully, we were partially compensated by close encounters with some very inquisitive and particularly colourful cuttle fish. We also drifted over a poisonous variety of star fish - not to be trifled with - schools of various cold water fish, and some more nuddibranchs. On re-entering the boat at the end of the dive, which involved manic fining to 'launch' oneself out of the water like an Emperor Penguin, we were informed that the second outboard engine had been fixed, so during the surface interval we headed out to the sunken dredger.

By now however Astrid's complexion had turned blue, and so she sensibly decided to fore go the second dive along the bottom, into, and over the sunken dredger. Kym and I thus paired up and dropped over the side of the boat and descended down the mooring line to the dredger 15m below. Within seconds we were greeted by blue devils, cuttle fish, groupers and host of other fish that had taken up residence at the wreck. Passage through the various open holds and interior cabins was a tight fit, and definitely not suitable for those suffering even the slightest claustrophobia. Fortunately, Kym kept me safe - although I did bump my head a few times as buoyancy control using his borrowed BCD proved difficult.

At the end of the allotted 45 minutes maximum diving time we headed back to the boat, by which time my feet felt like blocks of ice. Fortunately, my hands had not been effected by the cold, and so retained the dexterity needed to operate the underwater camera, allowing me to capture some great shots of various marine critters. The journey back to the jetty was quick, but with the wind now at 25 km/hr, I too was shivering by the time we reached Terra Firma. Thankfully, with no clouds in sight, we both warmed up very quickly, and found ourselves heading off in the car at 13:30hrs to Glenelg for a hot coffee and to study the locals relaxing on the beach. We then drove north to Outer Harbor at the tip of the peninsula for views over Gulf St Vincent before then heading back to the Mercure Hotel in Adelaide, arriving just after 16:30hrs. 

Day 8 (29-Dec-12) Adelaide - Victor Harbour (136 km)

Today was much anticipated, with the day's planned scuba diving at Rapid Bay, on the Fleurieu Peninsula, being the primary reason for driving all the way from Brisbane to Adelaide. The weather was warm and sunny, but the water a frigid 19C, necessitating use of 5mm wet suits - though Astrid used a 7mm wet suit, and still ending up shivering. Indeed, after just 40 minutes on the first dive, her hands were so cold she was no longer able to operate the underwater camera! The diving itself took place off the jetty, which is famed for being host to the world renowned Leafy Sea Dragon. This marine critter is generally regarded as having the most sophisticated camouflage techniques devised by Nature, comprising a stunning visual blending with the sea grasses that it consumes, combined with an intentional swaying motion that precisely matches the movement of the grasses. The effectiveness of these two 'optical illusions' is so complete that the creature has no known predators. 

While the highlight of the day was catching sight of these magnificent creatures, we also caught sight of an eagle ray, cuttle fish, squid, schools of trout, nuddibraches, exotic box fish, huge crabs, and menagerie of other cold water fish. With the dives taking place at shallow depths (< 9m) we were able to extend dive times to over an hour each, with no surface interval required. Getting into and out of the water at end the jetty was long and arduous, with the journey from Adelaide taking 1.25 hours also. As such, the diving ended around 15:00hrs, with further 0.5hrs needed to cleanup and dump everything back in the car. We thus did not complete the transfer to our Motel in Victor Harbour until around 16:15hrs. We then unpacked everything and sunk into a bottle of plonk to celebrate and reflect on the day's proceedings.

The photos provide a mere tantalizing glimpse of the amazing critters to be found in this part of the world. With more diving planned for tomorrow we will be happy if we get to see just half as much. We are in for a restless night.... 

Day 7 (28-Dec-12) Adelaide Hills (125 km)

For a change we did not have to ‘up anchor’ and move to a new location. As such, there was no manic start to the day. Instead, following a quick cuppa, we packed a day pack only and then headed off to Waterfall Gully for hike up to Mount Lofty. This 4km route proved to be more arduous than expected, though we were passed by a number of super fit athletes that ran to the summit. By the time we arrived at the summit the clouds that had appeared so threatening when we first awoke had all but disappeared, and we were rewarded with crystal clear views of the city.

Following a rapid descent back to the car we grabbed a quick cuppa before then heading off in the car for a scenic drive through the Adelaide Hills. The clockwise circuit took us up Gorge Road to Castambul and then along Torrens Valley Road to Birdwood. After stopping for quick lunch we continued through Mount Torrens along Mount Torrens Road to Hahndorf. Hahndorf has an interesting history. The town was settled by Lutheran migrants largely from in and around a small village then named Kay in Prussia, many of whom were aboard the Zebra arriving on 28 December 1838. The town is named after the Danish captain of the Zebra, Dirk Meinhertz Hahn. There is still a strong German flavour in Hahndorf, most evident in the small-goods outlets and German bakeries that line the bustling main street. Several boutique cellar doors have recently opened in the main street, and trendy eateries serve the freshest and best local produce.

We then drove to Warrawong Wildlife Sanctuary in Mylor, hoping to catch sight of a few Platypus. Alas, we were to be disappointed, though Astrid did catch sight of a Bandicoot, a very shy creature that is normally only seen at night. We also caught sight of a wild Koala, plus a variety of different wallabies. After an hour traipsing through the park we elected to head back to Adelaide, arriving back at the hotel at 16:15hrs.