1 Sept 2010

Day 1 (01-Sep-2010) Singapore - Ho Chi Minh City



The flight to Ho Chi Minh City, still known as Saigon to most, was due to depart Singapore airport at 08:25 hrs. Reveille was thus at 04:45 hrs in time for our taxi pickup of 05:15 hrs. Bryan Hughes (a.k.a Energiser Bunny), one of our partners in crime on the recent kayaking trip to the Ningaloo Reef, had decided to opt for the Perth, Singapore, Ho Chi Minh route and so stayed at Castle Q&A the night before. He too therefore had the questionable pleasure of getting up early to join us on our trip to the airport.

Fortunately, our Dubai days are nothing but a distant memory, with the taxi turning up in plenty of time and with a driver who actually knew where he was taking us. Bliss! During check-in we met up with Donna and Alex. Alas, the ranks had been decimated in recent days and weeks through mental and physical injury, with just 5 of the original 9 team members from Singapore making in on the flight to Ho Chi Minh City.

Despite the high attrition rate, moral remained high, unphased by the daunting task awaiting us in Vietnam. And so following check-in and a quick breakfast we were on our way.

A short 2 hours later we disembarked at our initial destination and, although first off the plane, we were last through immigration due to time required to obtain entry visas on arrival. In Bryan’s case, this means now being allowed to enter Vietnam multiple times, thanks to an over efficient PA.

Tico, our guide from Spiceroads, and the person who will be cycling with us during our 4 days in Vietnam, was waiting for us at the other end and, following a short bus ride through the city, dropped us off at our first hotel for the trip - the Sofitel. During the brief trip to our destination, we witnessed a unique spectacle. This city of 10 million people has 11 million mopeds coursing its veins. Despite the obvious chaos this number of motorists creates, nearly everybody seems to be able to anticipate the unpredictable and wayward riding habits of everybody else. This collective conscience manifests in a living example of ‘organised chaos’.

Fortunately, the hotel allowed us to check in early and following quick ablutions, we regrouped for a quick (2nd) breakfast on the 18th floor, prior to having our first look around town. First we past the American Embassy, scene of final panicked evacuations at end of the Vietnam War so famously caught on newsreel. Next we visited the central post office, now housed in a recently renovated 19th century French colonial building, making it one of the most ornate post offices we’ve ever seen. Opposite is the Notre Dame Cathedral, a ‘mini me’ Romanesque version of the original in Paris, complete with 40m high twin towers, and built entirely from red brick. We then sauntered down old colonial tree-lined streets past the new (or recently renovated) Opera House and over to the Ben Thanh market. Two things standout as you navigate this route; 1) the maze of overhead telephone cables; 2) the dangers faced crossing the road, as each junction is treated as the starting line for the Assen TT - in all directions simultaneously!

Having navigated the hot and sweaty narrow pathways through the enclosed Ben Thanh market we beat a retreat back towards the Hotel, stopping off to visit a few art galleries on route, with Donna maxing out a few credit cards to buy the best on offer. The route home took us past the Saigon River, with Bryan awarded Medal of Valour for crossing the highway in both directions while managing to exude a truly stoic and phlegmatic disregard for life and limb.

After short snooze back at the Hotel we met Simon and the rest of the team over copious quantities of wine. We also gave Simon an early birthday present, a Canon G11 camera, complete with ‘self-timer’ feature which we expect will be Simon’s favourite. We then ended the day with a sumptuous feast at the Vietnam House restaurant next door to the gallery which Donna had visited earlier in the day - and now empty of paintings as a result.

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