Ho Chi Minh City to Angkor Wat

Having traversed the Kokoda Track on foot and Ningaloo Reef via Kayak it seemed entirely appropriate that we choose another mode of transport for our next adventure holiday. This holiday however has special significance, with Simon reaching his Half Century after a difficult innings plagued by a receding hairline, miniature extremities, and a 6-pack buried deep below a thick subcutaneous exoskeleton. However, through an overly developed sense of self, Simon is the embodiment of ‘Mind over Matter’, living proof that life can be lived to the fullest despite a panoply of physical and mental deficiencies.

And so after much research, it was decided that on this auspicious occasion we should undertake a physical challenge immersed in Culture rather than Nature. There is no shortage of either in Asia Pacific, with decision quickly arrived at to cycle from Ho Chi Minh City (formally Saigon) to Angkor Wat. Along the way we hope to visit number of historical sites and sample many of the culinary delights, with the climax being a visit to the world famous Angkor Temple complex. The highlight however will be celebrating Simon’s birthday at the Raffles Grand Hotel in Siem Reap (note to self – take socks).

Day 21 (07-Jan-2010) Kaikora - Christchurch - 205km

The final day proper in NZ and as we’ve still not seen any Kiwi’s, seeing one is top priority. We had to do some planning on how to secure a sighting of one of these rare birds at this late stage in the game. Night creatures as they are and preferring a forestry-like undergrowth to rummage around in, having to drive back during the day and to a major city on major roads at that, didn’t bode well for spotting one of these rare creatures in the wild. What to do?

Well, it sounds obvious: a stop would have to be made at the Willowbanks Reserve.

Breakfast, load the car and on our way. Initially, we’d toyed with the idea of making a bit of a detour via Hanmer Springs but whilst en route, we decided against this idea and make straight for the Willowbanks Reserve in Christchurch, just to make sure we’d have all the time in the world we’d need to find this illusive Kiwi.

Shortly before 12 we reached our intended destination and we can now confirm having sighted Kiwis. Sad that we had to got to this extreme to spot them, but well worth it. What cuteness wrapped up in a little bundle of fluff, eh..... feathers. The little scurrying balls of sweetness! Honestly, to see them running around in their particular style really brings a big smile to your face.

So, after the Kiwi’s we could give the hotel check-in a bash. Success! A quick snooze until 15:30 hrs followed by a march into town in search of some very hard needed NZ ornaments for the house. Success again! Miracles never cease....

Back to the hotel to ensure the bags were packed for tomorrows return flight to Singapore. With that done and dusted it was back into town for our final supper. We yet again succeeded in securing a good feed and bumped in to Caroline and Daniel, who we’d met on the Milford Track. After dinner we joined them for some drinks following which a taxi home seemed like the most prudent choice. Guess a lovely holiday has to come to an end at some point. It’s a shame it is so soon........

Day 20 (06-Jan-2010) Kaikora

Today we managed to see both NZ’s largest mammal and bird. The Sperm Whale and various species of Albatross. Of course, this was a feat that could only be accomplished if we were, yet again, willing to sacrifice a lie in and get up at some unholy hour. Actually, having both had to suffer a night of incessant coughing by Q, we might as well have foregone any attempts at sleep whatsoever!

Anyway, alarm was set for 06:30 hrs as our whale watching experience was due to commence around 8 with a 07:15 hrs check-in. Whilst waiting for the bus that would drop us off at the boat, we watched part of an amazing docu-film: The Big Blue (note to self: try to get a copy).

Not sure how successful the whale spotting would be and expecting something similar to our Hawaiian experience of many years ago, we dutifully followed the other tourists on board our designated vessel. It was only 15 minutes into our journey out to sea when the first Whale was already spotted and quite near by for that matter. There she blows!!! (Actually, we were to see young male bulls only so perhaps “There he blows!” would be more appropriate) Great!!! Excitement all over!!! Stop the boat, open the cabin doors and rush out onto the deck. No kidding!!! There was a Spermy just nearby!!! No, there were two of them!!!

Unfortunately, unlike the humpbacks, Sperm Whales are not known for the breaching antics

and this occasion was no exception. However, we saw plenty of exposed back while the Whales were at surface and caught some good sights of tails when two of these giants dived. Wonderful!!!

Having floated around for quite some time, unfortunately we had to make our way back again. Way too soon as far as I’m concerned. Can’t have it all I’m afraid, but considering we’d seen Spermies on a calm sea, who’s complaining?

On the way back we made a quick stop at another Seal colony and were joined by a pod of Dusky Dolphins. We were back ashore by about 10:30 hrs and now had to start thinking about what to do with the rest of our time in Kaikoura. After all, who’d expected this instant success with our Whale spotting exploits? How about we book ourselves in for an Albatross trip at 1? Right! Cup of coffee and a spot of shopping for tonight’s dinners before heading back out to sea again.

Again, as we weren’t sure what to expect, we were both overawed being able to see some of the 21 species of Albatross that roam the seas of the world. The Albatrosses were joined by some big and small varieties of Petrel and various other seabirds. The effortless flight of these large birds, especially the Albatross, simply takes your breath away and it is not until you’re close to one of these giants that you realise how big they really are.

This had been an experience not to be missed and I think possibly even more impressive than what we saw this morning. As far as I was concerned, it was made even more special because of the much smaller size of boat and group.

We just had a cup of tea back at our cottage and I think I could do with a little snooze before our (intended) little run later on.

22:15 hrs now. Ok, the run didn’t materialise. The snooze, however, did and most pleasant it was too. After the snooze we had a cottage cooked meal of peas (guess who requested those) & pasta: jummy......

We then decided, around 7, to go for a walk from which we just returned. After all, we have to make the most of this beautiful weather and landscape while we can. The trip took us slightly longer than planned, or was perhaps slightly further than indicated on the map. Arriving back to our accommodation in pitch dark was actually quite nice as total darkness on this holiday usually didn’t take place until were well asleep.

Day 19 (05-Jan-2010) Punga Cove - Kaikora via Anikawa -18km+188km

Despite an early alarm call we didn’t hit the track until 08:15 hrs. This had nothing to do with the weather as today we again encountered nothing but blue and sunny skies. Today was to be our last day with any kind of serious activity whilst in NZ, unless we’ll be able to squeeze in some more short hikes somewhere during our last 2 days here. We’d better make the most of our time on the QCT therefore!

Lots of birdlife to take in which was a good thing as we needed plenty of distractions during the first 45 minutes which was an uphill battle all the way.

Like I said before, the Gods were smiling down on us again and the glorious sunshine was accompanied by a chorus of birdsong. Due to the great variance in times estimated in the various reference materials provided to us on the route, we weren’t sure how long it would take us to reach Anakiwa, which was the place from where we were hoping to catch a taxi to take us back to Picton.

At about 12:15 hrs we reached a point from where we thought we’d be able to reach Anakiwa in less than an hour and therefore called the taxi company in Picton to send a taxi to collect us, keeping our fingers crossed they would actually do so.

At 13:30 hrs a grandma with a raspy smoker’s voice collected us from Anakiwa and whizzed us around the corners of the very windy road back to Picton. Don’t think it was her first time on that road!

We had time to pick up a quick cup of coffee before we made off for Kaikoura which was estimated to be about a 2 hr drive away.

Dramatic changes of scenery and a multitude of NZ Fur Seal site stops later took us to our final destination by 17:30 hrs.

A quick shower and some unpacking later we were on our way into town for a bite to eat. We discovered that once the sun sets and a slight wind picks up, things can cool down quite quickly. Guess it was a good idea of Q’s to rush back to our accommodation to pick up our jackets while we waited (a long time) for our (not so great) dinner.

We managed to pick up some provisions for breakfast. Now, quickly off to bed so we’ll be able to see the whales all the quicker!

Day 18 (04-Jan-2010) - Picton - QCT Punga Cove - 25km

After getting up at 06:15, one would expect to start hiking by 8, say 9. Wrong!

Our boat (water taxi) to our starting point on the QCT did not leave until 8 and after numerous stops to drop off and collect various people along the track, a quick cuppa (we’d not had breakfast so a muffin was included with the cuppa) was quite enough to set us off on our 2 day hike by 10:15 hrs.

Unlike yesterday, we were greeted with beautiful sunshine which accompanied us all the way. Fortunately, there was still a considerable breeze (gale in some places) to cool us down whilst on the more exposed parts of the track. Regular gaps in the tree coverage afforded us more than just a fleeting glimpse of the many bays and coves whilst walking along the ridge of this windy outcrop.

Skies were so clear that at some point in our journey we believe we even caught sight of the North Island.

The track wasn’t exceedingly busy with other hikers or bikers nor was it too testing in most parts. Lots of sightings of Weka though!

At the end of the day I can confidently say: “Man, were my feet glad to get out of those hiking boots!” How did we ever manage to complete our 52 km mad dash in Spain? Today we only did 25 km. Pathetic!

As water and food supply on the track is zero (although the brochure would differ with me), we’ll need to go and get some provisions for tomorrow, including water as we did feel we were having to skimp on the 2 litres we had between us for the entire day. While we’re in town to do the shopping, we can perhaps pick up a beer on the way...?

Anyway, a quick rummage through the local “shop” for some food for tomorrow left us wondering what to do with the rest of our evening. The easy and obvious answer was drink and eat, and in that order.

I don’t think we’ve had a bad meal here yet, and this evening’s was no exception. Funny, how of all places, we were waited upon by a bevy of Dutch waiters.

21:30 hrs now and I think a short read of David Copperfield will leave me in good stead for the rest of the night.

Day 17 (03-Jan-2010) Greymouth - Picton - 400km

We reached Picton about 45 minutes ago after a mostly wet drive all the way from Greymouth. However, wet doesn’t necessarily mean awful!

We managed to get checked out and on the road by about 9. Around 10 o’clock we reached a spot which, according to the map, had something worth getting out of the car and wet for: pancake rocks. Some unexplained geological formation which remains unexplained even after our close examinations and analyses.

The gloomy day added some additional gloomy light to the coastal, windy scene and afforded us with more fabulous sights. However, weather being as it was, today we weren’t enticed to come out of the car too often.

We had a quick take-away coffee on the way out to warm us up and keep us going for the next few hours driving through the rain. Lunch was enjoyed on the way in the car after Quentin had taken over the driving and I was assigned kitchen duty. Sandwich preparation in a car moved by Quentin is not an easy thing, let me tell you that! However, once the sandwiches have been put together, they taste equally as nice as those prepared at a stationary kitchen station.

We did enjoy some clear skies and occasional dry patches on the way, but most of today’s drive did take place in the wet. What better day to pick to have to drive a whole day.....

Day 16 (02-Jan-2010) Franz Josef Glacier - Greymouth via Arthurs Pass - 330km

Just checked in to the hotel and made a cup of tea which readies us for the usual admin and IT chores that need attending to prior to ensuring we can go into town to enjoy whatever it is local nightlife in Greymouth may have to offer.

Today started with another natural early wake-up of 07:30 hrs. When opening the curtains we discovered the heavy rains of the night before had turned into a steady drizzle. Breakfast was quite a lush affair with toast, tea and juice. Having prepared today’s lunch ready for take-away-eat-as-you-go, we were good to go.

First stop would be the Franz Josef Glacier for a 1 to 1½ hr quick hike up to the base of the glacier. Alas! So much rain had fallen overnight, and was still coming down, that the path leading to the base of the glacier was flooded. No, let’s rephrase that: had turned into a wild flowing river!

Quentin wasn’t too positive about the views we’d be able to have from Arthur’s Pass, but as I’m a strong believer in “willing” things to be just right, Q also adopted this approach and we decided to stick to our original plan and make the detour via Arthur’s Pass. Although weather for most of the way was rather grey, scenery remains something to be admired, no matter what the weather. Once we reached the pass, however, it seemed as if we’d been transported to an entirely different continent, and not just a different country. It wasn’t long after crossing the pass, therefore, that we could be found drinking a cup of coffee on a terrace whilst basking in glorious sunshine and enjoying the antics of some local Keas.

As weather here was so greatly improved, we thought it would be a good idea to try to have a short hike on some of the tracks around the village. This excellent idea was soon undermined when we tried entering our chosen path, which was waterlogged.

As it was 2 o’clock by this time, we decided to head back to the car and slowly make our way to Greymouth. During one of the many stops that followed, the car was attacked by a group of very naughty Kea’s and some of the rubber on the car had to bear the brunt of their naughtiness.

As we approached the coast again and left the pass behind us, weather again started to close in. We’d noticed on the map we would be passing a Kiwi sanctuary/centre and as we’d still not laid eyes on NZ’s national bird, we thought it would be a good idea to stop off there. Don’t ask me how, but we seemed to have missed our turn (no sign???) as, before we knew it, we were in Greymouth. We’ll just have to wait until we get back to Christchurch where we should be able to see them at the Willowbanks Reserve, unless, of course, we’re lucky enough to bump into them somewhere in the wild.

P.S.: Had a great (huge) dinner at a local pub.