The same monotonous routine heralds yet another early start. This day will be special however as it takes us to Brigade Hill, site of the next major valiant defense of Militia and AIF ‘brothers in arms’ against the continuing onslaught of Japanese forces. Losses on both sides are high, with Australian positions again close to being encircled and annihilated before managing daring escapes under heavy fire. On route we pass excavations by Kokichi Nishimura, sole survivor from his platoon involved in the attack against Australians. Nicknamed the ‘Boneman of Kokoda’ he commits to honour a pact made with all his comrades to locate the remains of any who should fall in action. Kokichi’s survival against all odds along the Kokoda Track, his eventual escape from the final encirclement of Japanese forces at beaches on the north coast, and journey back to Japan, weighing just 28 kilos on his return, is a testament to his enduring spirit. More remarkable still was his sudden decision 40 years after end of WWII to sell his family business, leave his wife, and spend the next 20 years in PNG fulfilling the promise made to his war comrades. His story is a moving testament to the futility of war.
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At Brigade Hill itself it is difficult to imagine the desperate fighting 67 years previous as the site is now so tranquil, and affords spectacular panoramic vistas of the Owen Stanley’s to the east. The war memorial at the crest is small and simple, but full of pathos – none leave with any sense of complacency.
At Brigade Hill itself it is difficult to imagine the desperate fighting 67 years previous as the site is now so tranquil, and affords spectacular panoramic vistas of the Owen Stanley’s to the east. The war memorial at the crest is small and simple, but full of pathos – none leave with any sense of complacency.
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The journey continues downhill to Vabuiagi river, again becoming very steep as we leave the ridge line to drop down into the gully at the bottom. All the while great entwining savage tree roots try their best to hurl you into oblivion. We then face a long, and initially very steep, uphill ascent to the top of the next ridge, one of many ‘knocked off’ thus far. On the way we stop for lunch at Menari, site of the most famous photograph taken of the Kokoda Campaign. It is here that surviving remnants of the 39th Battalion militia, after almost 2 months constant frontline action, are officially relieved and take the salute from Col. Ralph Honner for their extraordinary gallantry – these ‘chocos’ that for many weeks were all that stood between Imperial Japan and Australian homeland. Standing on the same square where these boys, misfits and WWI vets. once stood was a personal highlight of the whole trek.
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The journey continues downhill to Vabuiagi river, again becoming very steep as we leave the ridge line to drop down into the gully at the bottom. All the while great entwining savage tree roots try their best to hurl you into oblivion. We then face a long, and initially very steep, uphill ascent to the top of the next ridge, one of many ‘knocked off’ thus far. On the way we stop for lunch at Menari, site of the most famous photograph taken of the Kokoda Campaign. It is here that surviving remnants of the 39th Battalion militia, after almost 2 months constant frontline action, are officially relieved and take the salute from Col. Ralph Honner for their extraordinary gallantry – these ‘chocos’ that for many weeks were all that stood between Imperial Japan and Australian homeland. Standing on the same square where these boys, misfits and WWI vets. once stood was a personal highlight of the whole trek.
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On leaving the next ridge we then faced ‘The Wall’, a vertiginous nightmare descent to a swamp below. Descending this feature required great effort and concentration as one small slip would definitely spell trouble - and no doubt lead to considerable pain. This was probably the one and only time Simon stopped talking!
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Once in the swamp we negotiated fetid waters and deep slime to finally arrive at our destination for the day, a pleasant small settlement by the Brown River. The descent also brought us back to mosquito country so long sleeves, nets, and ‘chemical WMD’ was mandated.
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