Following a shivering mostly sleepless night (due in part to the incessant snoring of bed-fellows) we found ourselves turfed out at 06:00hrs. There followed a hive of activity as we tended minor ailments, dressed (in cold wet clothes), packed, gobbled down breakfast, fertilised the jungle with whatever our stomachs deemed surplus to requirements and donned our packs, all by 07:00hrs. It was only then that we became aware of the eerie landscape emerging from the morning mist – a fabulous vista.
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Following obligatory photo shoot we embarked on the days’ hike, which in a few hours brought us to the site of the most famous battle on the Kokoda Track. It was at Isurava that former Australian PM Paul Ketting, on the 50th anniversary of the battle, famously knelt down to kiss the ground in a moving tribute to what many military historians refer to as the modern day Thermopylae. The legend of the 300 Spartans who held the pass at Thermopylae against thousands of Persians has lived on for nearly 2,500 years, as should the 5-day defence of Isurava by just 1000 militia and AIF troops against 6000+ fanatical Japanese soldiers. While the Australians ultimately lost the Battle of Isurava, the losses inflicted on the enemy were so massive – 2000 dead and wounded for the loss of just 76 men – that they had nonetheless sowed the seeds for final victory. And any who visit the war memorial erected here just 10 years ago will be profoundly moved by what they find and by the realisation that every step taken along the track through this site was bitterly contested, much of it in hand-to-hand fighting, and under circumstances that defy imagination.
Following obligatory photo shoot we embarked on the days’ hike, which in a few hours brought us to the site of the most famous battle on the Kokoda Track. It was at Isurava that former Australian PM Paul Ketting, on the 50th anniversary of the battle, famously knelt down to kiss the ground in a moving tribute to what many military historians refer to as the modern day Thermopylae. The legend of the 300 Spartans who held the pass at Thermopylae against thousands of Persians has lived on for nearly 2,500 years, as should the 5-day defence of Isurava by just 1000 militia and AIF troops against 6000+ fanatical Japanese soldiers. While the Australians ultimately lost the Battle of Isurava, the losses inflicted on the enemy were so massive – 2000 dead and wounded for the loss of just 76 men – that they had nonetheless sowed the seeds for final victory. And any who visit the war memorial erected here just 10 years ago will be profoundly moved by what they find and by the realisation that every step taken along the track through this site was bitterly contested, much of it in hand-to-hand fighting, and under circumstances that defy imagination.
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After a meagre lunch we then continued on our way to Alola, our next refuge. Again, the heavens opened in the afternoon. By the time we reached our destination, we were ready for a cuppa! Situated at 1340m altitude, we had also at long last managed to shake off the legions of mosquitos and other biting insects that had plagued us since our arrival in PNG. Rest of the day was taken up with usual ritual of unpacking, erecting beds, washing clothes and body parts, followed by candle-lit dinner for four, with lights-out at 21:00hrs.
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