28 Sept 2013

Day 7 (27-Sep-31) Arches NP (41 miles)



Following leisurely breakfast at 08:00hrs, Simon elected to spend the day entertaining himself – more on that escapade from himself later. The Morgans & Nowowiejskis instead spent a leisurely day back in Arches NP to visit some of the many other landmarks, in particular the famous Delicate Arch. Getting there however involves a strenuous 1 mile hike up the side of a large sandstone massif.  We thus decided to prepare our bodies first with a hike to the more accessible Windows, via a scramble to the Double Arch and Cove of Caves.

Following obligatory numerous photo stops, water stops and even greater number of toilet stops (none of us seemingly have particularly strong bladders) we drove to Wolfe Ranch; the starting point for the hike to the Delicate Arch. There, we first visited the small wooden cabin that was home to the Wolfe family at the turn of the last century. They ran a small cattle farm in this beautiful yet unforgiving place. The hard physical work required to survive in this arid terrain, and the tiny cabin that was home to two adults and four children, comes as a great shock to many park visitors. Emboldened by the hardiness of these settlers, we embarked on our hike up to the Delicate Arch (though for some reason David preferred to refer it as the Tender Arch). After much panting and weasing, we eventually reached our destination, with the NPS clearly intent on ensuring that only those willing to go the full distance be rewarded with spectacular views of the arch and its vertiginous surroundings.
 
After a few minutes spent taking photos of the arch, from various angles, Kerri decided she’d had enough and so retreated to the safety of a flat hollow. The rest of us followed after absorbing the fabulous vistas stretching in all directions to distant horizons. We then slowly descended back to the car, where we had ‘lunch’ (trail mix, beef jerky and a few energy bars).  Suitably rested and refreshed, we then drove slowly to the Devil’s Garden Trailhead for 0.5 mile hike to the Landscape Arch. This equally famous landmark, spanning 290.1ft, is the longest natural arch in the world, and almost appears to defy gravity. With Astrid and Kerri electing to stay behind to capture photos of this natural wonder, Dave & I scrambled up one of the rock fins to visit nearby Navajo Arch and Partition Arch, with the later affording spectacular views of the snow-covered mountains behind Moab. We then decided to explore the surrounding canyon to find a vantage point from which we could look back down onto Landscape Arch. After some false trails our efforts were duly, and suddenly, rewarded. The views of the arch, and Fiery Furnace labyrinth behind, were literally dizzying.
 
We hastily retreated from our perch to be back with our women, after which we made our way slowly out of the park, stopping now and then for photos of the late afternoon sun, casting big shadows over the many buttes, hoodoos, arches and pinnacles. On the way back to town we also stopped to view some ancient Petroglyphs, which sadly had been partially vandalised in 1980 – with many expletives uttered at this desecration. After a few beers at a local ‘spit-n-sawdust' joint, we showered and then feasted and wined at a fabulous Italian restaurant.
 
Captain Sweatpants Log - Supplemental
 
The arrival of crew re-enforcements from star base Houston enabled me to rent a shuttle RZR ATV vehicle, beam down alone to the planet's surface. The thought of this great solitude in this huge expanse of wilderness, after days of umpiring the Morgan marriage, made my spirits soar! I looked forward to exploring the veritable moonscape that lay outside of carefully manicured Arches National Park, particularly at speeds of up to 40 km ( heart rate 65 this time) on clearly marked tracks.
 
Despite specific map instructions not to attempt Seven Mile Rim! I found myself inexorably drawn to the challenge of the precipitous climbs, impassable ridges and long sandy up & downhills sections. As is often the case, I came to regret the moment when my over confidence met my inexperience and inability to manifest itself in pure terror!!
 
It had all begun so well when I headed at high speed to Uranium Arch and then more circumspectly over rocks & boulders along the ridge to Monitor Butte & Merrimac Butte, massive individual structures on a rocky outcrop. Of course that is where the trouble started....... Traversing this outcrop required climbing vertical walls above Wipeout Pass (they are not known for exaggerating with their descriptions in Utah), clinging to impossible ridges and over the pass before hurtling down into what days earlier had been a raging riverbed (Wadi) after the flash floods. There really were moments where I thought we were going to roll down the precipitous, smooth rock faces and came to understand why they had such re-in forced roll cages in these vehicles.......Well, me and RZR survived and sped off to Determination Towers (how very apt!!) at maximum warp speed to catch the now forming cotton wool cloud formations gathering around clearly distinguishable micro weather systems over the mountains.

To complete a fabulous 50km loop, I stopped at Tusher Tunnels and walked through the system to emerge into another valley in bright sunshine with stunning views. A massive downhill run back to base camp to meet the 5 o'clock deadline, transfer into the Murano and then a Deep Tissue Aromatherapy Massage by a lady who appeared to have a map of the entire Moab region tattooed across her body. Her powerful hands and deep kneading caused trauma to most of my internal organs with occasionally her thumb prints protruding through my chest.

A fabulous day, in wonderful solitude, destroyed only by the prospect of a full house Italian dinner and a scientific update from Quentin Attenborough....... 
 

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