Day 27 (30-Aug-07) - Arzua to Santiago de Compostela

 

Big day…… preceded by a very bad night’s sleep – the worst yet. It was difficult to tell if it was the anticipation of the road that lay ahead, the noise of the road or the plastic undercover sheets!
 

We got up to darkness at 5am and left shortly afterwards embarking on what was unintentionally a long pre-breakfast trek. The road was a little undulating and light on the feet, not least because we had been lightened of our loads by Nelly and Maarten the night before. Day finally broke after around 7kms to the rather strangled screech of a cockerel who like us must have been on his last legs.
 

Thankfully, owing to the early start, we had the Pilgrim’s route all to ourselves, adding to the tranquillity of the wooded scenery unfolding from the darkness. Our light loads made for speedy progress, enabling us to reach our breakfast stop just beyond Arco at 10:10hrs. At 20km distance from Arzua, this was further than originally planned, but the villages we passed on the way were little more than one-house hamlets.

 

Having recharged batteries with chorizo and queso boccadillos, we continued our effortless stroll into Santiago de Compostella. Legs, feet and fitness had by now been so toughened from 750km of hiking that we entered the city after 38km without any feeling of tiredness whatsoever. During the final 2km to the old city centre and the Cathedral itself excitement began to build, with arrival at the main entrance giving way to pure elation and flood of other feelings at finally arriving at journey’s end.

Nelly had been notified of our impending arrival from Motto de Gozo, and was waiting in Praza do Obradoiro to witness our last few steps. Pride and joy in her daughter’s achievement was very evident in her beaming smile. And what an achievement:-

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753.40km in 25 walking days, 3 days quicker than our original schedule and 6 days quicker than recommended minimum.

Nikki’s accomplishment was equally impressive, covering 311km in 11 days, an average of 28.27km/day.

The rest of the day was spent with Nelly and Maarten celebrating and reflecting on the month-long journey, with tiredness finally catching up just before midnight.

Day 26 (29-Aug-07) - Palas de Rei to Arzua

After having to nearly forego breakfast as the bartender who was to take our order was either not in the mood, or not sufficiently awake at the ungodly hour of 06:00, we managed to set off at 06:30 hrs. Leaving Palas de Rei in a slight drizzle, which occasionally gave way to short, alternating bouts of clear(ish) skies and dark clouds heavy with more rain, the first and only coffee stop for the day was scheduled in Melide.

 

As today was to be our penultimate day on The Camino, perhaps we should have savoured the here and now some more by dragging out our walking time to at least 6 hrs. Alas, this was not to be as we already reached the hotel before 13:00 hrs, spending a mere 5½ hrs on the road – not nearly enough by my reckoning!!!

 

In considering a ritual burning of used underwear (not needed anymore after tomorrow), it was unanimously decided to instead opt for the less dramatic disposal method of depositing them in the bin ( in the absence of an incinerator). After the body and luggage cleansing session it was time for a well earned lunch accompanied by the obligatory bottle of wine. This recalled the reverential ‘Sermon on the Mount’, in which Brian had misheard ‘Blessed are the Cheese Makers’, as Arzua is world famous for its cheese, and rightly so based on the plate had for lunch.

 

Awaiting final instructions from the bag collection service to be provided by Nelly & Maarten 2/3’s of our company have decided the best mental and physical preparation for tomorrow’s final push into Santiago is some serious zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzd’s (with the occasional loud snore from Q). As I am obviously the deeper thinker of the group, I have chosen the more cerebral alternative of contemplating the world through the inside of my eyelids

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Day 25 (28-Aug-07) - Portomarin to Palas de Rei

In order to blaze a trail for God’s Legions to follow we departed Portomarin under cover of darkness at 06:30hrs and in thick fog. The fog caused havoc with the light from our headtorches, with diffusion and backscatter (the result of internal reflection and refraction of light inside water droplets held in colloidal suspension with air – honestly!) blinding our progress. Nonetheless, we made steady progress, with sunrise revealing eerily beautiful landscapes draped in mist.

With legs now fully accustomed to the daily plodding ritual, and feet, shins, Achilles and knees in reasonable shape, we advanced rapidly towards our one and only stop on this stage for a hearty breakfast. We covered the 13km to this halfway point at Ventas de Naron by 09:30hrs, by which time, tummies were rumbling.

By 10:15hrs we could see The Masses descending on our position in full song, accompanied by the roar of a thousand tambourines - well so it seemed. We thus kitted up for the romp into Palas de Rei, with iPods again acting as marching metronome. A cool breeze, firm terrain and beautiful scenery enabled us to complete the day’s 25km trek at a very respectable average speed of 4.7km/hr.

Following hotel check-in and cleansing shower we were sitting down to lunch by 14:00hrs. Discussions naturally turned to the two remaining days into Santiago de Compestella, and what we would do as fitting tribute to end our physical and metaphysical journies. Or are we perhaps premature???

Day 24 (27-Aug-07) - Sarria to Portomarin

After sumptuous feast night before with Maarten and Nelly, featuring multiple different plates of exotic Galicia delicacies, we allowed ourselves to sleep in until 07:00hrs. Good job too, given the torrential downpour commencing 05:00hrs. After a meagre but vital fibre-filled breakfast we departed 08:25hrs, only to find ourselves mingling with legions of new Peregrinos intent on obtaining their Compostella by completing minimum of a mere 100km on the Camino de Santiago.

I’m not sure how many laps round the Rosary Beads would be needed as penance for the blood-curdling cussing that took place barging our way past these part-timers. That said, with this Pilgrimage being one of only three in Christendom resulting in total absolution of all personal sin, then I presume this includes all sins committed along the way!!! (If so maybe we should commit some more!).

Anyway, the hike itself carried us through very scenic rural landscape, with the vast majority of hikers left in our wake by our one and only tea stop at 12km, with short 22km total hike to Portomarin finished by 13:15hrs.

Being at much lower elevation, the traverse was by far the most sweltering to date, necessitating muchos cervasas to rehydrate on arrival at the hotel where we again bumped in to Enriqo and his girlfriend Titiana, who we first met on route at Villamayor. Lunch was followed by our first Siesta in 5 days – a blissful respite.

Day 23 (26-Aug-07) - Fonfria to Sarria

After waking up most of the bunks at the Albergue trying to find the pre-sparrow fart exit, we finally made it out into the blustery wind to head off on our morning’s descent in the dark. Don’t tell Q but I quite enjoy our early morning starts as it breaks up the day and watching the sun rise is magnificent.

 

The descent into Triacaleta was nowhere near as bad as expected much to our relief but being Sunday our arrival was not welcomed by the usual smell of coffee and bocadillos– even worse no one seemed to be at church so the village was just having a lie-in! So off we continued on the shorter 27km route only to be greeted by more hills! Thankfully the wooded route took us to eggs and bacon at Casa Franco where we saw the most gorgeous litter of Alsatian pups only days old, quite indignant at their first experience of Spanish rain.

 

Onwards we headed through quite a long thunderstorm to Sarria which put our wet weather gear to the test. Safely now nestled in our hotel we are ready to paint the town pink (well –tinto probably) with Astrid’s mum and Maarten who arrive today.

Day 22 (25-Aug-07) - Trabadelo to Fonfria

Up with slightly gingerly legs and on the road by 06:20 hrs, which put us in good stead to finish the day in Fonfria. This in turn would enable us to reach Santiago a day earlier than originally planned for some obligatory sightseeing. As there was a definite chill in the air at this early morning hour, Nikki opted to wear everything in her backpack, including the backpack itself, for additional warmth, while Quentin decided a T-shirt and shorts would suffice.

Passing through quite a number of very scenic villages set in an equally beautiful landscape made for extremely pleasant walking. After some 2 hrs en route the obligatory coffee/tea stop was called for. Onwards & (fortunately) upwards!

Nikki seemed to be undecided as to what or how much to wear due to the constantly changing weather conditions, which one minute were sunny and hot and the next minute positively blustery. Also, due to Nikki’s regular need for toilet stops, Quentin has decided Nikki has a bladder smaller than that of a Lesser Lorrie’s.

Reaching our ultimate destination just before 16:00 hrs, passing 600km mark in the process, we were forced to try our luck at the local Albergue. As it turned out we choose wisely since we ended up with our own private room with bathroom for € 12,00 a head.

After a quick phone call to various parents and loved ones (especially Mum & Maarten to ensure they will be available to ferry our considerable luggage to Santiago for the final push) all that’s left to do is ‘defungify’ ourselves and await the evening meal – accompanied by a bottle of wine……

Day 21 (24-Aug-07) - Ponferrada to Trabadelo

Congratulations to Nikki for breaking 30km barrier for first time, with the very scenic 33.78km route to Trabadelo covered in total time of 9.18hrs. Having scoffed very basic breakfast at the Hotel we embarked on our day’s journey at 06:50hrs, with brunch scoffed at Cacabelos 10:30hrs.

The route both before and after Cacabelos taunted us with field after field of vineyards. Little did I know until today that white wine is made from black grapes without the skin! Clearly dragging Nikki along has broadened my limited cultural education.

Lunch at Villafranca Del Bierzo gave us opportunity to be ruthless about ‘carry on’ luggage, with Nikki forced to shed her Encyclopedia Britannica (Nick’s rubbish novel) and face cream jar that featured more glass than the 1851 Crystal Palace world exhibition! Thereafter, we ‘raced’ past fellow Perigrinos, along the supposed dangerous final leg to Trabadelo. Fortunately, this section through a deep gorge valley proved to be very idyllic – marred only by a bl**dy wasp that stung my left Pinky!!!

The only effective pain remedy that I know of is to imbibe copious quantities of red wine…..