Day 21 (07-Jan-2010) Kaikora - Christchurch - 205km

The final day proper in NZ and as we’ve still not seen any Kiwi’s, seeing one is top priority. We had to do some planning on how to secure a sighting of one of these rare birds at this late stage in the game. Night creatures as they are and preferring a forestry-like undergrowth to rummage around in, having to drive back during the day and to a major city on major roads at that, didn’t bode well for spotting one of these rare creatures in the wild. What to do?

Well, it sounds obvious: a stop would have to be made at the Willowbanks Reserve.

Breakfast, load the car and on our way. Initially, we’d toyed with the idea of making a bit of a detour via Hanmer Springs but whilst en route, we decided against this idea and make straight for the Willowbanks Reserve in Christchurch, just to make sure we’d have all the time in the world we’d need to find this illusive Kiwi.

Shortly before 12 we reached our intended destination and we can now confirm having sighted Kiwis. Sad that we had to got to this extreme to spot them, but well worth it. What cuteness wrapped up in a little bundle of fluff, eh..... feathers. The little scurrying balls of sweetness! Honestly, to see them running around in their particular style really brings a big smile to your face.

So, after the Kiwi’s we could give the hotel check-in a bash. Success! A quick snooze until 15:30 hrs followed by a march into town in search of some very hard needed NZ ornaments for the house. Success again! Miracles never cease....

Back to the hotel to ensure the bags were packed for tomorrows return flight to Singapore. With that done and dusted it was back into town for our final supper. We yet again succeeded in securing a good feed and bumped in to Caroline and Daniel, who we’d met on the Milford Track. After dinner we joined them for some drinks following which a taxi home seemed like the most prudent choice. Guess a lovely holiday has to come to an end at some point. It’s a shame it is so soon........

Day 20 (06-Jan-2010) Kaikora

Today we managed to see both NZ’s largest mammal and bird. The Sperm Whale and various species of Albatross. Of course, this was a feat that could only be accomplished if we were, yet again, willing to sacrifice a lie in and get up at some unholy hour. Actually, having both had to suffer a night of incessant coughing by Q, we might as well have foregone any attempts at sleep whatsoever!

Anyway, alarm was set for 06:30 hrs as our whale watching experience was due to commence around 8 with a 07:15 hrs check-in. Whilst waiting for the bus that would drop us off at the boat, we watched part of an amazing docu-film: The Big Blue (note to self: try to get a copy).

Not sure how successful the whale spotting would be and expecting something similar to our Hawaiian experience of many years ago, we dutifully followed the other tourists on board our designated vessel. It was only 15 minutes into our journey out to sea when the first Whale was already spotted and quite near by for that matter. There she blows!!! (Actually, we were to see young male bulls only so perhaps “There he blows!” would be more appropriate) Great!!! Excitement all over!!! Stop the boat, open the cabin doors and rush out onto the deck. No kidding!!! There was a Spermy just nearby!!! No, there were two of them!!!

Unfortunately, unlike the humpbacks, Sperm Whales are not known for the breaching antics

and this occasion was no exception. However, we saw plenty of exposed back while the Whales were at surface and caught some good sights of tails when two of these giants dived. Wonderful!!!

Having floated around for quite some time, unfortunately we had to make our way back again. Way too soon as far as I’m concerned. Can’t have it all I’m afraid, but considering we’d seen Spermies on a calm sea, who’s complaining?

On the way back we made a quick stop at another Seal colony and were joined by a pod of Dusky Dolphins. We were back ashore by about 10:30 hrs and now had to start thinking about what to do with the rest of our time in Kaikoura. After all, who’d expected this instant success with our Whale spotting exploits? How about we book ourselves in for an Albatross trip at 1? Right! Cup of coffee and a spot of shopping for tonight’s dinners before heading back out to sea again.

Again, as we weren’t sure what to expect, we were both overawed being able to see some of the 21 species of Albatross that roam the seas of the world. The Albatrosses were joined by some big and small varieties of Petrel and various other seabirds. The effortless flight of these large birds, especially the Albatross, simply takes your breath away and it is not until you’re close to one of these giants that you realise how big they really are.

This had been an experience not to be missed and I think possibly even more impressive than what we saw this morning. As far as I was concerned, it was made even more special because of the much smaller size of boat and group.

We just had a cup of tea back at our cottage and I think I could do with a little snooze before our (intended) little run later on.

22:15 hrs now. Ok, the run didn’t materialise. The snooze, however, did and most pleasant it was too. After the snooze we had a cottage cooked meal of peas (guess who requested those) & pasta: jummy......

We then decided, around 7, to go for a walk from which we just returned. After all, we have to make the most of this beautiful weather and landscape while we can. The trip took us slightly longer than planned, or was perhaps slightly further than indicated on the map. Arriving back to our accommodation in pitch dark was actually quite nice as total darkness on this holiday usually didn’t take place until were well asleep.

Day 19 (05-Jan-2010) Punga Cove - Kaikora via Anikawa -18km+188km

Despite an early alarm call we didn’t hit the track until 08:15 hrs. This had nothing to do with the weather as today we again encountered nothing but blue and sunny skies. Today was to be our last day with any kind of serious activity whilst in NZ, unless we’ll be able to squeeze in some more short hikes somewhere during our last 2 days here. We’d better make the most of our time on the QCT therefore!

Lots of birdlife to take in which was a good thing as we needed plenty of distractions during the first 45 minutes which was an uphill battle all the way.

Like I said before, the Gods were smiling down on us again and the glorious sunshine was accompanied by a chorus of birdsong. Due to the great variance in times estimated in the various reference materials provided to us on the route, we weren’t sure how long it would take us to reach Anakiwa, which was the place from where we were hoping to catch a taxi to take us back to Picton.

At about 12:15 hrs we reached a point from where we thought we’d be able to reach Anakiwa in less than an hour and therefore called the taxi company in Picton to send a taxi to collect us, keeping our fingers crossed they would actually do so.

At 13:30 hrs a grandma with a raspy smoker’s voice collected us from Anakiwa and whizzed us around the corners of the very windy road back to Picton. Don’t think it was her first time on that road!

We had time to pick up a quick cup of coffee before we made off for Kaikoura which was estimated to be about a 2 hr drive away.

Dramatic changes of scenery and a multitude of NZ Fur Seal site stops later took us to our final destination by 17:30 hrs.

A quick shower and some unpacking later we were on our way into town for a bite to eat. We discovered that once the sun sets and a slight wind picks up, things can cool down quite quickly. Guess it was a good idea of Q’s to rush back to our accommodation to pick up our jackets while we waited (a long time) for our (not so great) dinner.

We managed to pick up some provisions for breakfast. Now, quickly off to bed so we’ll be able to see the whales all the quicker!

Day 18 (04-Jan-2010) - Picton - QCT Punga Cove - 25km

After getting up at 06:15, one would expect to start hiking by 8, say 9. Wrong!

Our boat (water taxi) to our starting point on the QCT did not leave until 8 and after numerous stops to drop off and collect various people along the track, a quick cuppa (we’d not had breakfast so a muffin was included with the cuppa) was quite enough to set us off on our 2 day hike by 10:15 hrs.

Unlike yesterday, we were greeted with beautiful sunshine which accompanied us all the way. Fortunately, there was still a considerable breeze (gale in some places) to cool us down whilst on the more exposed parts of the track. Regular gaps in the tree coverage afforded us more than just a fleeting glimpse of the many bays and coves whilst walking along the ridge of this windy outcrop.

Skies were so clear that at some point in our journey we believe we even caught sight of the North Island.

The track wasn’t exceedingly busy with other hikers or bikers nor was it too testing in most parts. Lots of sightings of Weka though!

At the end of the day I can confidently say: “Man, were my feet glad to get out of those hiking boots!” How did we ever manage to complete our 52 km mad dash in Spain? Today we only did 25 km. Pathetic!

As water and food supply on the track is zero (although the brochure would differ with me), we’ll need to go and get some provisions for tomorrow, including water as we did feel we were having to skimp on the 2 litres we had between us for the entire day. While we’re in town to do the shopping, we can perhaps pick up a beer on the way...?

Anyway, a quick rummage through the local “shop” for some food for tomorrow left us wondering what to do with the rest of our evening. The easy and obvious answer was drink and eat, and in that order.

I don’t think we’ve had a bad meal here yet, and this evening’s was no exception. Funny, how of all places, we were waited upon by a bevy of Dutch waiters.

21:30 hrs now and I think a short read of David Copperfield will leave me in good stead for the rest of the night.

Day 17 (03-Jan-2010) Greymouth - Picton - 400km

We reached Picton about 45 minutes ago after a mostly wet drive all the way from Greymouth. However, wet doesn’t necessarily mean awful!

We managed to get checked out and on the road by about 9. Around 10 o’clock we reached a spot which, according to the map, had something worth getting out of the car and wet for: pancake rocks. Some unexplained geological formation which remains unexplained even after our close examinations and analyses.

The gloomy day added some additional gloomy light to the coastal, windy scene and afforded us with more fabulous sights. However, weather being as it was, today we weren’t enticed to come out of the car too often.

We had a quick take-away coffee on the way out to warm us up and keep us going for the next few hours driving through the rain. Lunch was enjoyed on the way in the car after Quentin had taken over the driving and I was assigned kitchen duty. Sandwich preparation in a car moved by Quentin is not an easy thing, let me tell you that! However, once the sandwiches have been put together, they taste equally as nice as those prepared at a stationary kitchen station.

We did enjoy some clear skies and occasional dry patches on the way, but most of today’s drive did take place in the wet. What better day to pick to have to drive a whole day.....

Day 16 (02-Jan-2010) Franz Josef Glacier - Greymouth via Arthurs Pass - 330km

Just checked in to the hotel and made a cup of tea which readies us for the usual admin and IT chores that need attending to prior to ensuring we can go into town to enjoy whatever it is local nightlife in Greymouth may have to offer.

Today started with another natural early wake-up of 07:30 hrs. When opening the curtains we discovered the heavy rains of the night before had turned into a steady drizzle. Breakfast was quite a lush affair with toast, tea and juice. Having prepared today’s lunch ready for take-away-eat-as-you-go, we were good to go.

First stop would be the Franz Josef Glacier for a 1 to 1½ hr quick hike up to the base of the glacier. Alas! So much rain had fallen overnight, and was still coming down, that the path leading to the base of the glacier was flooded. No, let’s rephrase that: had turned into a wild flowing river!

Quentin wasn’t too positive about the views we’d be able to have from Arthur’s Pass, but as I’m a strong believer in “willing” things to be just right, Q also adopted this approach and we decided to stick to our original plan and make the detour via Arthur’s Pass. Although weather for most of the way was rather grey, scenery remains something to be admired, no matter what the weather. Once we reached the pass, however, it seemed as if we’d been transported to an entirely different continent, and not just a different country. It wasn’t long after crossing the pass, therefore, that we could be found drinking a cup of coffee on a terrace whilst basking in glorious sunshine and enjoying the antics of some local Keas.

As weather here was so greatly improved, we thought it would be a good idea to try to have a short hike on some of the tracks around the village. This excellent idea was soon undermined when we tried entering our chosen path, which was waterlogged.

As it was 2 o’clock by this time, we decided to head back to the car and slowly make our way to Greymouth. During one of the many stops that followed, the car was attacked by a group of very naughty Kea’s and some of the rubber on the car had to bear the brunt of their naughtiness.

As we approached the coast again and left the pass behind us, weather again started to close in. We’d noticed on the map we would be passing a Kiwi sanctuary/centre and as we’d still not laid eyes on NZ’s national bird, we thought it would be a good idea to stop off there. Don’t ask me how, but we seemed to have missed our turn (no sign???) as, before we knew it, we were in Greymouth. We’ll just have to wait until we get back to Christchurch where we should be able to see them at the Willowbanks Reserve, unless, of course, we’re lucky enough to bump into them somewhere in the wild.

P.S.: Had a great (huge) dinner at a local pub.

Day 15 (01-Jan-2010) Wanaka - Franz Josef Glacier - 310km

Despite the excesses of last night (we finished a bottle of bubbles all by ourselves!), we were up at the crack of dawn.

Oh, before I forget: Happy New Year, and may 2010 bring everyone what they could possibly wish for.

Right, back to today’s proceedings. The crack of dawn was 8 o’clock, which, considering the considerable amounts of alcohol imbibed over the course of last night (beer, bottle of wine, bottle of bubbles), was very early indeed. Especially if you also know we didn’t actually go to bed until about 01:30 hrs (we had to watch the fireworks – using our imagination - and make some calls). Cup of tea, throw our belongings in the car, check out of the hotel, fill the car up with petrol and on our way we went.

Weather wasn’t too great but it was perfect for driving. We made regular stops, some with some walks, others just to pick up a cup of coffee/tea. Around 3 o’clock we reached Fox Glacier after a failed attempt to sight one of NZ’s Fjordland Crested Penguin colonies. The beach where they were to be found was not only secluded but also deserted, which may have had something to do with the time we were there: too early in the day.

When we reached Fox Glacier we were able to walk right up to the bottom of the glacier. Very impressive and you can only get a sense of scale when you actually spot people in close proximity to, or on the glacier.

Onwards and upwards again to see the next big glacier in the area which would also be our stop for the night. As we didn’t reach our final destination until 17:00 hrs, we decided to first check in to our accommodation before having a look at this glacier. The Franz Josef Glacier was equally as impressive as the Fox Glacier and after scouting a route for a short hike tomorrow, we decided to retire to our chambers and cook dinner in the communal kitchen. After all that excitement we can finally start to think about having a shower and potentially an early night.

The one thing that keeps amazing us about NZ is that wherever you turn and look, there is beautiful vista after even more beautiful vista to be taken in. Also, the country seems to be filled with very pleasant people, although slightly inebriated at times, e.g. New Year’s Eve. A great country in short! Could be rather brutal during wintertime though, I can imagine......

Day 14 (31-Dec-2009) Te Anau - Wanaka - 240km

We have acquired a mascot for the car. Just as we were about to get into the car this morning, I noticed a poor little bird wedged into the grill, dead obviously. I haven’t investigated the matter any further so cannot give you details of the poor little munchkin’s pedigree, nor have I been able to positively identify the murderer. I have, however, been able to narrow down the list of suspects to either Quentin or myself, with Quentin taking 1^st place as he’s got a previous record for road kills.

Today’s drive was to take us to our New Year Eve celebrations and wasn’t expected to cause any major hassles. At around 11 o’clock we were already well on our way to Wanaka and had reached Queenstown, where we decided to go for a little detour and where lo and behold, a Starbucks appeared out of nowhere (ok, we thought Queenstown looked large enough on the map to perhaps have a Starbucks).

Town was very busy and obviously preparing itself for this evening’s festivities. The short walk through town gave us the impression that Queenstown during wintertime could be quite a nice little ski resort. As it was nearly lunchtime and we’d heard so much about this particular burger place, Quentin simply had to try a Fergburger and put his mind at rest with regard to the name of the place.

The final 50 km of today’s drive to Wanaka took us across another pass. Scenery was stunning. Actually, where in NZ is the scenery anything but stunning? It was very windy though and we nearly got blown out of our pants. Some people were starting their New Year’s celebrations early and were attempting to drink beers using some obscure construction whilst standing on top of this very windy pass.

When we arrived at our hotel in Wanaka at 14:00 hrs, our room wasn’t ready yet so we decided to walk the 3 km into town and back out again. As was to be expected, making a booking in a restaurant wouldn’t be quite as easy, what with it being 31 December, or so we suspected. We were, however, assured that we’d be able to get a table if we’d be willing to perhaps wait a little while so decided to take our chances and walk back into town again later to see what we could get.

We’ve got a bottle of local bubbles in the fridge, just in case we have to be totally sad gits and commemorate 2009 in our room by ourselves and bring in 2010 in our room by ourselves.

Now, what could we do before celebrating New Year’s Eve at midnight? Gym, swim or sleep? Ok: sleep for me, some work for Q followed by dinner and then (now, 23:15 hrs) wait for midnight to finally arrive so we can make the customary phone calls to our family back home – who still have ½ day to go before they’re time is up.

Day 13 (30-Dec-2009) Milfolrd Sound Te Anau - 0km

We’re currently making our way up to Wanaka and have just finished our Subway breakfast, which was very painful to obtain as some people in the queue in front of us were apparently not entirely familiar with the Subway concept. Quentin did very well in staying in the queue, or is it Q? Yesterday was simply too busy a day to keep up with the admin side of things so here goes.

We had a kayak trip planned for yesterday morning, which was the reason for spending an additional night in Te Anau. I’m not sure anymore why, when planning this trip, I thought it’d be a good idea to have another early morning. All the packing had to be done prior to our 07:15 hrs pickup as we had to check out of the hotel before 10 o’clock. I was really questioning the wisdom of wanting to do a kayaking trip after being woken up in the middle of the night by a severe gale and rain storm. Fortunately, by the time we made it to our boating departure point, weather had cleared up sufficiently to believe that exposing ourselves to the elements in our fashionable kayaking gear shouldn’t cause us too much frostbite.

As we’d be making our way up Milford Sound under only our own peddle steam power, we’d obviously be able to cover only a short section of this beautiful fjord in the short time allotted for this trip. From the kayak we were able to spot some seals along the banks of the fjord and generally were able to enjoy the peace and tranquillity of the quiet on the water.

After roughly 4½ hrs of peddling and not too many moments with sufficient potential for a divorce (we had to share a 2-man sea kayak), we were back on land and only wet in the feet and bum areas, which are larger areas in some of us than in others.

Time for breakfast and lunch! Although, wouldn’t it be a better idea to see if we’d perhaps be able to catch an earlier bus back to Te Anau, rather than just hang around Milford Sound, waiting for the 5 o’clock bus, especially as weather wasn’t too great to be wanting to contemplate any long hikes?

Right! Let’s see what we can do! Walk up to the bus terminal, ask a bus driver of the company we’d be using if there would be any spaces on the earlier bus. Yes! we could come on the 14:30 hrs bus. However, this meant we had to rush back to the hotel to pick up our packs, rush back to the terminal to catch our bus (45 minutes were given us to complete all this) and thus skip breakfast/lunch. Ah well, we hadn’t had enough exercise yet so off on our mad dash we went.

Now trust me when I say it isn’t easy running with a full (in my case 20 kg at least) pack on your back. Fun, but not easy! Fortunately, we managed to hitch a ride on a local shuttle bus for part of the way back. This actually left us with time to spare and we could have had a quick bite after all, were it not for the fact that there was no food to be had at the terminal. Fortunately for Quentin, we were able to obtain some chocolate bars which satiated his need for a fix of something.

The bus ride back was uneventful but scenic. We were back at the hotel around 5 o’clock which left us with plenty of time for a cuppa, shower and some domestic chores in the form of washing prior to meeting up with Brigitte for dinner, one of the women in our group on the Milford Track.

We managed to achieve all set tasks, and more as Q worked his way through out IT stuff, before heading off for dinner at the Redcliff in Te Anau. We had a most wonderful meal there with some very innovative food combinations. Of course, the wine flowed freely and a most enjoyable evening was had by one and all.

By midnight Q’s eyes were nearly falling shut, with the rest of his aging body in close pursuit, so off to bed we went. With no major plans for tomorrow, except a drive to our New Year’s stop in Wanaka, we were under no obligation to set the alarm for an early rise.

Day 12 (29-Dec-2009) - Dumpling Hut - Milford Sound via Sandfly Point - 18km

What a miserable night’s sleep I had, and some of the people sleeping close to me would probably say the same. At some point during the night, the stuffiness of the hut caused a coughing fit that just wouldn’t let off. There was me thinking that Quentin at least, was sleeping through my splutterings since no water was offered to alleviate my suffering. As it turns out, he was quite awake, but couldn’t be bothered to be associated with me in any shape or form. Shameful! And that after only 15 years of marriage!

Anyway, after having suffered through the night, the usual morning ritual followed, further lightening our loads by finishing the remnants of our final foodstuffs. As per precedent set on previous days, we were on our way by 8 o’clock and today were actually some of the last people to leave the hut.

Our steady pace, general walking prowess and overall fitness quickly enabled us to catch up with the first of the early leavers. It wasn’t long before we’d overtaken most of the walkers in our group.

Although we’d always said it wouldn’t matter what the weather would be like on our last day, we didn’t mean that as a free for all for the rain to start pouring down on us. Not a proper rain, but a steady drizzle did keep us cool for the first four hours of our trek. After that, weather remained overcast and therefore pleasantly cool. Overall, not bad weather at all for a good old hike in the country.

The track mainly lead us downhill the few remaining 150-odd metres and although vistas weren’t as stunning as those of yesterday, we still had a most enjoyable walk. As is always the case on the last day of any hike, be it long or short, on the one hand I’m always glad (and rather chuffed) to be finishing but on the other hand I’m sad to be finishing. Finish we had to and as we’d been assured that there should be no problem trying to catch an earlier boat than the one we’d been booked on originally, we decided to try to reach Sandfly Point (guess where the place derives its name from) by 13:00 hrs which would allow us to take the earlier boat of 14:00 hrs, rather than the one of 15:15 hrs.

We didn’t expect not to be able to make that earlier time so didn’t feel the need to rush, or run as one of the members in our group felt compelled to do. We made it to the appointed spot by 12:30 hrs and feasted on our final crunch bar. The 1½ hr wait was occupied with chattering to our fellow travellers, whilst waiting for the remainder of the group to arrive.

Fortunately, the boat wasn’t fully booked so were able to sneak onto the 2 o’clock return ferry to Milford Sound. A short boat ride and wait for our bus took us to our luxurious 4 bunk “private” sleeping quarters for the night. A quick bottle of wine and a review of the pictures and video shot en route, prior to a most luxurious shower and 1 hr snooze, lead us to our dinner of fish & chips/burger with plenty of beer to celebrate our achievements.

We’ll make it an early night tonight as tomorrow’s kayaking trip has another early pickup of 07:15 pencilled in for us.

Day 11 (28-Dec-09) Mintaro Hut - Dumpling Hut - 14km

Being awakened by Kea’s banging their beaks against the window was an entirely novel experience and not a wholly unpleasant one. I think Kea’s should be renamed to Cheeky Troubles or something of the sort. You wouldn’t believe the things they get up to and manage to destroy with just their beaks. Last night, they’d managed to chip their way through a hard thick plastic water container! Anyway, this morning, if nothing else, they at least got us up in time.

This morning’s regimen was pretty much the same as yesterday’s: get dressed, have breakfast, pack pack and off by about 8 o’clock.

The descriptions provided in the various books and brochures of today’s trek do not do any justice whatsoever to the actual route. The first hour’s walk (for us at least) was entirely uphill towards Arthur’s Pass where we were greeted by yet more naughty Kea’s. Once across the pass, we were expecting some nasty downhill sections as the ranger at Mintaro Hut had warned us to pay special attention on the descend during his talk the previous night. However, as it turned out, we had nothing to worry about, especially if compared to some of the hikes we’d done in Switzerland and Italy. The thing that made it hard was the length of the descend: >1 km.

A beautiful walk on yet another glorious day with a stunning side trip to Sutherland Falls, which we had almost resigned ourselves to not being able to do following the alarmist descriptions the night before of today’s hike.

As there was no point in reaching the Dumpling Hut early, a (bunk) bed would be there for us anyway, we took our time making numerous stops to photograph and video local birdlife and reached the hut by 15:30 hrs. A quick cursory wash of the extremities and a cup of tea saw us in good stead for the evenings’ entertainment: food and a sip of whisky, followed by bed at 21:30 hrs.

Day 10 (27-Dec-2009) Clinton Hut - Mintaro Hut - 16.5km

As it turned out, both huts were filled to capacity so all we could hope for was that there would either be no snorers in our hut or if there were, please let them be quiet ones. Actually, after our experience in Spain, I think I could possibly sleep through any snorer, although I still admire Julia for being able to sleep next to Howard every night.

The “hut master”, a very lanky guy who goes by the name of Ross and has the skinniest but longest legs I’ve ever seen on a guy who doesn’t display them on the catwalks of Europe, gave a talk on what to look out for and expect during tomorrow’s walk. A great storyteller!

Considering what time we’d arrived at the hut yesterday and having sat ‘round for a large part of the day, going to bed by 21:30 hrs was a very acceptable time. I think my bottom was just glad to get a more evenly weight distribution but we didn’t want to go to bed too early for fear of waking up at too un‑Godly and hour. Those fears, however, were totally ungrounded as we didn’t wake up until around 6, 6.30.

I will admit I had an unexpected good night in my little sleeping bag, with my new comfy pillow, even verging on the hot side. Quentin had given me the bottom bunk bed just in case I would take another tumble in the middle of the night, as happened to me before when sleeping in a mummy style sleeping bag.

Breakfast was 2 wraps with salami and cheese, washed down with a cup of tea. With all the morning chores seen to, we were on the trail by 08:00 hrs with the reassurance of Ross that we should be able to keep our feet dry today as no further rain had fallen overnight and the track usually dries out pretty quick once the rain stops. It was a beautiful day for a hike with the sun starting to poke its head out at around 11 o’clock. We decided to forget about an extensive lunch stop and have a nutty bar at the half-way point so we could continue on our merry way without any major stops. Not that we needed the extra time, but hunger or food doesn’t seem to feature large on the calendar when walking, until you stop walking that is.

It was almost as if the timings used in the various brochures were set by us. At 14:00 hrs on the nose, we walked into the Mintaro Hut, having had the pleasure, en route, of having seen the very rare Blue Duck, and many other birds of a feather.

As all the energy consumed with this morning’s frugal breakfast had been more than expended during our 6 hr “tramp”, our first task when arriving at the hut was to throw something together for lunch. Of course, bed selection having taken care of as an absolute first priority. As we’re planning to have a rather luxurious dinner of Thai Green Curry and Rice tonight, we managed to stop eating after a few cream cheese and peanut butter crackers with a nice cup of tea/coffee. With quite a bit of afternoon still left and plenty of daylight hours remaining, as the sun doesn’t set until about 21:30 hrs, we decided to have a quick wonder down to the nearby lake.

Quentin felt brave, after having been sufficiently egged on, and jumped in to a little stream which looked very tempting and clean but was, obviously, and in hind sight, very, very cold. Perhaps a little bit too cold.....

17:00 hrs now and dinner is starting to call out to me.... Probably nothing much exciting happening until bedtime unless the Kea’s decide to show themselves and wreak some havoc.

And they did!

Day 9 (26-Dec-2009) Te Anau - Milford Track Clinton Hut - 5km

A quick read through the brochure provided on the Milford Track as part of our final pre-departure checks told us there would be no electricity available in any of the huts we’d be staying at, therefore, dump computer, nor would there be any showers available whilst en route, therefore, dump shower gel. I can already tell you that even if the shower we’ll be able to get on the 30^th is the most pathetic trickle of cold-ish water, it’ll be one of the most anticipated events of that day, and possibly this holiday.

As we were up quite early and didn’t have to be at the bus collection point until 09:30 hrs, we had time for yet another sit down breakfast. We’d better make sure we don’t make a habit out of this as this ready supply of additional nourishment might suddenly cease to be.

A quick whiz through town to drop me and the luggage off at the bus stop so we didn’t already have to lumber around with our backpacks strapped to our back, following which Quentin could safe park the car back at the hotel and run back to where he’d just dropped me off. Due to some X-mas excesses of some of the bus drivers used on this route we were slightly late leaving Te Anau but as the ferry that would take us to the starting point of our walk would not leave without us, or so we hoped: no worries. Oh, in case I didn’t mention it before: it’s been raining, something that apparently is not very uncommon in this area.

Our bus dropped us off at the boat terminal at around 11:30 hrs and we reached our first stop of the Track, the Clinton Hut, by around 13:00 hrs. As rain is not the most ideal weather for bird watching and generally ensures people walk in the plod position, i.e. head down, there is nothing much special to report from today’s hike.

What do you mean “we got wet”? For the duration of the 5.5 km short hike to the hut, it rained (and is continuing to do so as we speak). The hut sleeps up to 40 people in 2 shelters with bunk-bed type accommodation. Pick your bed and hope you don’t end up sharing your sleeping quarters with the loudest snorer on the block. We’re keeping our fingers crossed for tonight.

Lunch was a frugal affair but the cup of hot tea was most welcome. With nothing much happening between now (14:30 hrs) and 17:00 hrs when there might be a ranger guided walk, we have no other choice but to watch the rain come done. Except watch the rain fall down, or did I already mention that, and hope not too many more walkers will arrive and want to share our hut.

Day 8 (25-Dec-2009) Invercargill - Te Anau - 192km

Ho, ho, ho! (not sure what that is these days in the good old politically correct mad US of A). Merry Christmas! However, the season to be merry does not mean that idleness can be allowed, especially whilst on holiday. Organisation thrice over! (read: ho, ho, ho!).

We were up by 07:00 hrs (before the alarm, believe it or not) to already do the bulk of the packing and divvying up the various bits and pieces for our hike on the Milford Track.

At about 08:15 hrs we were having our first sit down breakfast of this holiday. Whilst enjoying our breakfast, what started as a quick SMS exchange with Howard, to wish him and Julia a merry X-mas, soon turned into a full fledged telecon. Most enjoyable but very confusing. Off to Te Anau!

As the washing wasn’t quite dry yet, the car’s backseats were turned in to a Chinese laundry for the drive to Te Anau, which we wanted to reach before 13:00 hrs so we could already collect our tickets for the Milford Track, rather than having to rush around tomorrow morning.

By 12:00 hrs we reached Te Anau and thus had plenty of time to complete the necessary formalities to join the track tomorrow. Although slightly early, The Village Inn already had our room ready, so bag dump completed and back out to see if we could still get a booking somewhere for our Christmas dinner. 18:30 hrs was the latest time still available in one of the only 2 restaurants open on this special evening and considering that we have an exciting (although not too early) day ahead of us tomorrow, this would probably be a good time to start a buffet style dinner. Plenty of eating time!!!

Next stop; a local shop we’d spotted open on this special day, where we could buy some proper warm head gear and something warm to wear for Q (just for peace of my mind as all he’d brought were T-shirt style garments). Although Q keeps insisting he won’t need it, I might need some additional layers, but just to make sure I don’t have to carry it.... Clever he!?!

With all the things on our shopping list ticked off we could go for a traipse to a local wildlife centre to stretch our legs and get a taste of the Te Anau scenery. As we were both feeling a little bit drowsy, we thought we should perhaps also go for a quick snooze. So, following our bird spotting and the coffee on the go, it was back to the inn. However, by the time the electronics updated and charge and the diary write up were completed, whilst watching Marry Poppins, the clock pointed to 17:15 hrs, not leaving us much time for a proper snooze before having to report for dinner.

21:30 hrs now. By the time I finally felt myself dozing off this afternoon, with MP still playing in the background, the alarm went off. Off we went for our dinner. The restaurant setting was very nice with 180° views of the surrounding mountain ranges. Food was plentiful and not bad at all. The extensive dessert choice especially, more than tickled Quentin’s fancy and required a second visit. A quick walk to get rid of the worst of the food excesses followed by a phone call home got us back to bed at this time of 22:00 hrs.

Day 7 (24-Dec-09) Stewart Island - Invercargill

We’re just sipping our cuppa in the Shiny Paua hotel, trying to let our wary bones recover after a full day of tramping on the various tracks of Stewart Island. Some of the tendons/muscles can do with a bit of extra recovery time. I sprained my hand when sliding down a slippery slope and Quentin sprained his ankle when hot on my heels (I was worried the last track for the day might not get us back in “town” in time for our 16:50 hrs flight check in).

The bikes we’d rented for the day proved to be somewhat of a burden as there is only a total of 27 km of road surface on which you are allowed to ride them, of which more than half only seems to have one direction: up, and very steep at that.

Anyway, having given the cycling a bash and deciding that walking uphill is our forte, rather than climbing them on, (or was it with?) a bike, we decided shortly after lunch time to return the bikes. We had a quick beer and were off again for our afternoon hike. Oh, before I forget: during our morning hike we encountered what we initially believed to be a Kiwi. Very cute, brown, flightless and totally fearless bird. We were elated! Actually, we were over the moon, which I believe is higher off the ground than simple elation. Who would have thought we’d actually spot one of these in the wild? As it turned out (identified by the barmaid later that evening), we’d had an encounter with a Weka. No less special but this leaves the Kiwi still on the list to be ticked off as having “seen .that”.

Anyway, good day today. Started with a mild drizzle and ended up quite nice with again with plenty to look at and see on the way.

The flight back to Invercargill was uneventful although it left 5 minutes late. As Q and his Blackberry were uncontactable during our stay on Stewart Island, he’s currently catching up on all the missed fun in the office. I’d better have a quick shower and try to do the final washing before we head off into the wilds of NZ the day after tomorrow.

Tonight, X-mas eve, I’ll finally be able to give Q his present. I hope it won’t turn out to be a case of me as the giver liking the present more than the receiver. Right! Time for a shower so we can go out for dinner.

22:10 hrs now and just back from dinner (great again) followed by a stroll through a very drunken town. Don’t think we’ll make it too late tonight. Although.....

Day 6 (23-Dec-2009) Dunedin - Stewart Island via Invercargill - 270km

It’s been one of those days again: where to begin? – mainly because I’m suffering a severe moment of old age pensioners blondness. Ok, let’s try to jog my memory. I do remember falling asleep with the lovely prospect of a good breakfast as was promised me, having skipped dinner the previous night owing to some little Blue critters. As happens when food is involved in this manner, I fell asleep and woke up with a huge smile on my face just because of the thought of food. This expression, however, was quickly wiped off once I realised we’d not have enough time for a sumptuous breakfast considering all that had to be achieved today if we had any hope of making our check-in time of 16:30 hr at Invercargill airport.

1. Pack separate pack for our day on Stewart Island tomorrow
2. Check-out of the hotel in Dunedin
3. Shop for food to be taken on the Milford Track, as we’d not expecte X-mas day was a good day to find shops open
4. Fill the car up with petrol
5. Visit the steepest street in Dunedin (in the world I believe) and try to set a new record running uphill
6. Reach Invercargill Airport by 16:00 hrs (preferably for peace of mind)
7. Enjoy the drive

It became clear, quite early on, that in order to maintain peace of mind, we’d better skip our attempt at the Guinness Book of Records by having to forgo our attempt to run up the steepest street in the quickest time ever recorded.

Like I said before, I’m suffering a senior blond moment so I can’t remember to where along the Southern Scenic Tourist Route we made a little detour to visit an absolutely gorgeous outcrop which provided us with a leg stretching opportunity.

After this pleasurable little side-trip to this unnamed location, we decided to make straight for Invercargill, picking up our first bit of rain for the holiday. We reached Invercargill with plenty of time to spare so decided on a quick exploratory drive through town and a stop at the local Starbucks. We also managed to get a replacement watchstrap for Q’s statistical measuring device.

When we got to the airport we were able to check in early and board the plane even earlier! Don’t worry about switching off your phone, just make sure you’re wearing you’re seatbelt and don’t try to walk through the plane whilst in the air! The short flight over stranded us on Stewart Island before 17:00 hrs, which was the time we were supposed to take off from Invercargill! I’m sure there is some sort of a time machine operational in NZ....

Checked in to the hotel, went for a short walk followed by a lovely dinner, followed by a longer walk. Bedtime after a quick stop at the local pub where we witnessed local fashion in action: men in shorts wearing wellies! Fortunately, the females were dressed more appropriately.

Day 5 (22-Dec-2009) Otago Peninsula - 130km

Pretty late already and to be honest, I’m feeling quite tired. Must have something to do with the fact that my body has only just managed to recover from the freezing temperatures I’ve had to endure for at least the past 2 hours.

Anyway, not to worry. I’m recovering with my 2^nd cup of tea and I can already say it was well worth the agony, hardship and all that lark Tomorrow morning I’ll wake up not even remembering why I thought I’d not been this cold, ever!

Now, if I look at the total km’s (mileage for those amongst us with no metric understanding), I wonder again at how it is possible to do so many km’s on a peninsula that stretches for only 30, maybe 40 km’s. Also, or should I say “especially”, as part of the afternoon was spent using the alternative transport provided by our tour company. Perhaps we’ll get to the bottom of this rather poignant question during the following analysis of today’s events.

We were up by, I believe, 8 and, following a quick cup of tea/coffee, were in the car to try and find a shop where we could buy and external HD so we’d have a safe way of storing the megatons of footage Q is capturing with his new HD video camera. Mission accomplished so off to the Otago Peninsula.

First port of call: the Albatross colony on the most north-easterly tip of the peninsula. Not seeing much action when we got there, we decided that the best way to have some guaranteed sightings would be to sign up for a guided tour. 12 o’clock was still available so let’s go for that one.

The introductory video and lady guide were very informative and helpful but we were after the real thing. Once actually at the observatory we were afforded with views of 3 nesting Albatrosses. Unfortunately, no aerial happenings as there was still no wind to speak of. Still, no disappointment really because who can actually say they’ve seen a Royal Albatross on its nest?

With another guided tour booked for the afternoon which wasn’t due to commence until 16:15 hrs, we opted for a take-away coffee/tea and decided to visit some of the remote beaches to try and spot some other critters. Beautiful vistas on our drive and we were rewarded with views of some Fur Seals on one of the beaches.

We arrived at our tour pickup point with some time to spare so time for a quick drink. The tour company picked us up at 16:15 hrs sharp and first took us back to the Albatross Centre where we, this time, did have the pleasure of witnessing some fly-by action as wind had picked up slightly and the time to return for the night was neigh upon us. The drive to the Fur Seal colony did take us back across some terrain we’d already covered earlier in the day, but again, with vistas like that, who’s complaining?

At the end of the drive we were taken to a substantial Seal colony with quite a number of pups. Just around the corner from the Seals was a Yellow Eyed Penguin colony. Although very antisocial, on this occasion the creatures decided to play ball and show themselves, one by one. What absolutely gorgeous creatures! There were also a number of chicks that decided to show themselves. The plump little puddings! So cute!

We were dropped off at our car again at around 20:30 hrs and were hoping we’d be able to make it back up to the Albatross Centre in time for the return of the Blue Penguins who have their colony near by. Well, we made it back in more than enough time! By 21:00 hrs we were on the beach, eagerly looking out for some beachings. It wasn’t until nearly 22:00 hrs (just after sunset on this the longest day of the year in the Southern hemisphere – how did we manage to pick this day to go and see the Penguins?) that the 1^st individual of the 1^st group of 3 waves of little Blue Penguins decided it was time to come on shore. The +1 hr wait to see this spectacle in the “freezing” cold was more than worth the wait though! However, Hotel; here we come!