Day 7 (13-May-2011) Shangri La - Stone Drum Town

This was by far the coldest day, with air temperature hovering around 8C, with wind chill adding to the misery once we got underway. Even with multiple layers of clothing it was not long before the cold cut through to numb extremities, though some had been deprived of any sensation in some 'crucial' extremities for some days! From the Nanka Hotel the route ascended immediately uphill to Lesser Zhongdian, before levelling off, with morning tea provided after completing 38km. On route Darren had a puncture, with the rest of the team stopping so Lee could affect repairs. In so doing however, Bryan The Invincible failed to detach his right cleat before the bike came to a halt, causing both he plus bike to plummet down the embankment at the side of the road, with Bryan let facing uphill pinned beneath the bike. Instantly, with no regard for personal safety, and in an exemplary demonstration of his commitment to his amateur profession, Simon rushed forward to capture Bryan’s embarrassment and struggles on film, offering no assistance whatsoever to preserve a fully detached voyeuristic sense of realism.

After tea we continued for a further 3km on flat terrain, before commencing a gentle 5km uphill ascent to the edge of the plains at 3300m (10,826ft). We then embarked on an exhilarating 40km downhill ascent along steep and winding roads down to Qiaotou on the banks of the Yangtze at 1840m (6036ft). As with previous long descents team members were careful not to take much risk, as any mishaps could be potentially fatal. Nonetheless, cycling speeds routinely exceeded 50km/hr, overtaking many lorries in the process, with Simon recording the highest speed, approaching 70km/hr. However, as a stark reminder of what could happen in case of mechanical failure or reckless driving, our downward progress was brought to an abrupt halt 10km short of the village, with both sides of the road barracked by the police, while a large crane pulled a crushed 25 ton 4-axle lorry from the river coursing alongside the road.

Following lunch at Qiaotou, we travelled by bus along the banks of the Yangtze river to Stone Drum Town, situated at the first major bend in the river as it crosses into China from Tibet. This town derives its name from a white marble carved monument in the shape of a drum, (diameter 15m, thickness 0.7m). This monument memorializes the victory and subsequent spread of power of Baizhuang, the Tusi of Mu Family of Lijiang, during the Jiajin years of the Ming Dynasty. The bus route to the village is very scenic, with numerous stop-offs arranged to capture photos and video. We also stopped at a roadside market to buy locally grown fresh strawberries which are famed throughout China. A 2 kilo bucket of these very sweet and tasty gems cost just US$4.00!

On arrival at the village we booked into the Shi Hong Hotel, after which we recounted the day’s experiences between mouthful’s of fresh strawberries, washed down with a few beers. Following yet another banquet dinner we went for a short walk through town and watched the sunset along the corniche by the mighty Yangtze river.

Day 6 (12-May-2011) Bai Shui Tai - Shangri La

Fortunately, we were given the option of a bus transfer across the first two high passes, conserving tired legs, and also reducing distance travelled from 100km to a more palatable 65km. During the transit there was a marked change in scenery. The surrounding hills were no longer cut through with cultivated terraces, with arable farming by the Naxi giving way to cattle farming by Tibetan peoples. From the drop-off point, we first descended, before then embarking on an epic 600m (1968ft) ascent to the highest point on the expedition at 3735m (12,253ft). We then embarked on an exhilarating 5km steep descent onto flat grassland plains for our morning tea break.

As we dismounted Lee was spotted dashing across a grass field filled with grazing Yaks towards the hills on the far side. It was then we saw two large Gryphons take to the skies – a magnificent site of the largest bird in Asia. I then leaped across the field myself hoping to catch them on video. Fortunately, one of the Gryphons landed close by, allowing me to film the bird as he first hopped up the side of a steep slope before taking to the skies once more - huge wow factor!

After tea, we continued on our journey, travelling a further 14km on a gentle downward gradient on the main road to Shangri La, the capital of Diqing Tibeten Autonomous Prefecture, and which was formally named Zhongdian until 2001. It was then renamed after the fictional land featured in the 1933 movie Lost Horizon in an effort to promote tourism to the area. Along the way we passed many large newly constructed houses built in classical Tibetan style, with thick wooden pillars fronting a large timber frame, covered with local stone, and finished in plaster. By the time we commenced the last 3km uphill section the cycling team had again spread out, with the gap then widening still further as the front riders sprinted up the hill and down the other side for another 4km. The team then regrouped for the final 12km ride along the plains into town, arriving at the opulent Nanka Hotel just in time for lunch.

Following another sumptuous feast we then descended on a local cafe situated in a small square close to the Hotel. There we imbibed on our first cup of real coffee in 4 days, chased down by a selection of cakes that alas more than offset the calories burned on the day’s bike ride! While others then went shopping, Astrid & I set off to tour the old town, and in particular the Tibetan temple located on the main square. To the left is a museum, providing a fascinating insight into the history, life and customs of the various local ethnic groups. It also houses an excellent exhibit on the audacious and epic Long March, featuring firsthand accounts of the hardships and depravations experienced by soldiers of the Communist armies desperately trying to avoid encirclement by Chiang Kai Shek’s forces. Regardless of one’s view about Mao Ze Dong or Chinese Communism, he was undoubtedly a brilliant military strategist. Not only was he responsible for pulling off one of the greatest military disengagements in history, he then marshalled the surviving remnants of the Long March to attack and ultimately defeat the vastly more numerous and better equipped forces under Kai Shek.

Dinner was yet another sumptuous feast, after which we then retired to the Hotel for a few more beverages and to check e-mails.

Day 5 (11-May-2011) Tiger Leaping Gorge - Bai Shui Tai

Though not the longest day, or the longest leg of the cycling expedition, this day would turn out to be the most arduous. We departed the hotel in Walnut Grove at 07:00hrs and descended 10km back to the village of Heika at 1760m (5774ft) where we emerged after the 2km hike from the gorge 2 days previous. We then began a long 24km ascent towards the pass at 2848m (9343ft) above the Naxi village of Haba. The first 3km was steep, with the road snaking its way up the mountainside around numerous hairpin bends.

As we ascended, the views back along Tiger Leaping Gorge and across the plains above Daju behind us was absolutely stunning, compelling some to make frequent stops at different vantage points along the route to record the changing landscape, while others stopped simply to prevent cardiac arrest! We thus split into smaller groups that slowly spread out over +/- 2km by the time we reached our first tea break after further 9km. We then embarked on the final 12km uphill section, reaching the pass at 10:15hrs in blistering sunshine. Following brief rest to regroup and take in the breathtaking view of the valley below us, we then descended at speed down to Haba, which was situated near the head of the valley at 2666m (8747ft). With just 30m to go, Mighty Mitchel managed to break his chain - yet again.

Lunch was, as ever, sumptuous, and, as ever, washed down with a few local ales. We then embarked on a second but shorter 4.5km uphill ascent to another pass at 2875m (9432ft). For some, this proved to be far more arduous than the longer morning ascent, in part due to the oppressive heat, but also due to creeping exhaustion and full stomachs. After further obligatory photos of fellow wheezing cyclists and landscapes, we continued along a slow undulating 28km descent in to Bai Shui Tai. This village is the birth place of the Naxi ethnic minority’s Dongba religion. There are also springs here high in calcium carbonate that run down the mountain slopes, forming calcified salt terraces covering an area of 3km2.

Despite covering a mere 70km for the day, we arrived tired, jaded and very thirsty. Indeed, such was our thirst that, before retiring to the Hotel to wash and change, we drank the entire stock of cold beer available in the village!

Day 4 (10-May-2011) Tiger Leaping Gorge

There are no words to adequately describe the enormity and majesty of Tiger Leaping Gorge. Quoting numbers and statistics instead would also fail to adequately capture the overwhelming sense of personal insignificance and the immensity of natural forces that have clashed over eons to create this landmark. The sight of shear granite walls rising 2000m (6561ft) above the Yangtze river, and extending a further 1900m up to the summit of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain at 5596m (18360ft) on one side, and to the summit of Haba Snow Mountain at 5396m (17703ft) on the other side, would not be amiss in Tolkien’s mythical Middle Earth. To render this place in anything other than pictures would simply beggar belief and be a grave injustice to one of Nature’s Great Wonders. And so today’s blog is devoted more to pictures than narrative.

A very similar, and more frightening experience, involving size and scale of a more anthropogenic origin, was encountered shortly before breakfast. Andy, who until now, had suffered quiescent bowel movement, at last managed to initiate an all out pre-emptive strike, and in so doing launched the single largest weapon of mass destruction known to mankind. Alas, early in its trajectory, it stubbornly refused to traverse the S-bend, and only after much prodding, did it continue on its stealth mission to blockade the Yangtze river. Indeed, so large was this ‘floater’ that we felt compelled to christen it during orbit insertion around the dining hall, after which it was hurled by the Hotel plumber in a final course correction down the terraced slopes to the gorge below.

After breakfast, we embarked on a brief hike down through the beautiful terraces in front of the hotel towards the roar of the Yangtze at the bottom of the gorge. Once there we found ourselves engulfed in a ‘surround-sound’ experience induced by the rhythmic pounding of waves crashing against rocks through Grade 5 rapids. We also found ourselves intimidated by the apparent way in which the vertiginous granite wall on the far side crouched over us to leave just a small slice of blue sky far above.

Following slow ascent back to the hotel we settled down to lunch, followed by brief Siesta. At 14:00hrs a few foolhardy souls (including myself) set off on our bikes, in blistering afternoon heat, to visit the narrowest section of the gorge. It is at this location that, according to local legend, a tiger leaped from one side to the other to escape the murderous arrows of a mythical hunter. Alas, the trip proved to be more arduous than envisaged, as aside to the heat, our legs were very fatigued and we found ourselves having to negotiate several steep inclines. However, our efforts were duly rewarded with fantastic views of raging waters being funnelled through an impossibly small outlet, with the resulting torrent creating an ear-splitting cacophony and a menacing vibration that weakened the knees.

Fortunately, sense rather than valour prevailed, and so we then opted to have Mr. Wong collect us in the minivan for the return journey to the Hotel. Dinner was another sumptuous feast, washed down with a few beers. As there was no electricity, there was no light pollution, except for the dim glow of candles. As eyes slowly adjusted to the dark, the heavens revealed a bright starry sky, with the Milky Way through the centre of our galaxy clearly visible. Against this backdrop, it was also possible to identify the occasional satelite in low earth orbit as it traversed the night sky.

Day 3 (09-May-2011) Lijiang - Tiger Leaping Gorge

We left the Hotel at 08:00hrs and were taken by bus to the entrance of Laojunshan National Park. Following 30 minute wait for the 2nd bus carrying our bikes to catch up we continued our journey into the park for the start of the day’s ride at a small reservoir. This very scenic location was mobbed by hundreds of Chinese tourists, queuing for a Yak ride across the river that empties over salt terraces into the reservoir and to have their photo taken in front of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, dressed in local costume.

The first 1.3km of the bike route rose gently up the side of a hill to the top of the valley, which afforded spectacular views over the entire national park. We then hurtled downhill along a winding road for 3.7km towards ‘hell on Earth’ – a 4.5km uphill ascent on cobble stones. Even with shock absorbers and gel saddles the ride proved debilitating, jarring teeth and crushing genitals alike. Indeed, only those with no genitals were able to progress at any speed – with Simon reaching the top of the next pass 30 minutes before anyone else! Andy on the other hand, known to those within his ‘circle of trust’ as The Man Called Horse, was last, feigning a puncture and a slipped chain to deflect suspicions that the family jewels packed a major hindrance....i.e. his meat and two veg were scrambled into bubble-and-squeak!

We then continued uphill for another 11.5km to the highest point of the day at 3280m (10761ft) for morning tea, after which we began an exhilarating 30km race to Daju at 1700m (5577ft). Cathy proved to be the most fearless, reaching a top speed of over 65km/hr. I and other mere mortals free-wheeled at more sedentary speeds in order to capture video and photos of the ever changing landscape and stunning terraced hills, cradling a vast plateau. The culmination was our first view of the raging Yangtze river. Collateral damage during the descent was quite minor, with only one puncture, a broken chain and one set of stuck front brakes.

Following a pleasant lunch at Daju we cycled to the edge of the plateau, which ends dramatically in a steep drop-off into a gorge etched by the Yangtze. We then handed our bikes to waiting porters and followed them on foot down the side of the gorge to a jetty at the bottom. Following short ferry ride across the river we then had to hike out the far side of the gorge, which proved very exhausting.

Reunited with our bikes we then cycled further 14km uphill to our final destination at Walnut Grove, along the famous Tiger Leaping Gorge; the deepest scar on the surface of the Earth. This last 14km sapped the will to live, with a strong biting headwind arresting our progress and reducing progress to a near crawl. However, perseverance ultimately paid off, with the team arriving at the Hotel just before 18:30hrs, having covered a total of 72km.

Day 2 (08-May-2011) Lijiang

Following early breakfast we departed the Hotel at 08:00hrs to be assigned our bikes and adjust settings. At 09:00hrs we departed on a short 45km acclimatisation tour to Yu Feng Monastery nestled in the foothills below Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, home to the southernmost glaciers in the northern hemisphere. The cool breeze and dry air on route was a complete and welcome contrast to the stifling humid conditions encountered on our last cycling expedition from Saigon to Angkor Wat. The outward leg along quiet backroads took us through Baisha, a small Naxi town famed for its Ginger tea. While we did not stop for tea, we did however take time out to listen to local music played by a Quartet – with Mitchell helping out on the cymbals.

We were then subjected to our first ‘moderate climb’ on the last 2km to the monastery. This left us all panting and weazing on arrival, with the thin air at the 2715m (8907ft) elevation making it impossible to curse, other than through an inner monologue. After a well earned tea break, we then entered the Buddhist monastery, which had miraculously survived the ravages of the Cultural Revolution. The incantations of the resident priests served to augment the austere yet peaceful setting .

The return journey to Lijiang was mostly downhill, but not without incident, with Mitchel managing to break the bike chain (and not for the first time), and Simon managing to wedge his bike in a plant box at the side of the road while we all took photographs of a statue of Mao Ze Dong. On arrival back at the starting point we dumped our bikes with our support team, Lee & Mr. Wong, and were then treated to a delicious Chinese banquet – the first of many.

With the rest of the day to ourselves we split up to visit number of other tourist and shopping destinations, before then reconvening at 19:30hrs for a Steamboat feast. Notwithstanding the fact that most found the concoction to be nothing more than a vial primordial soup, comprising extremophiles, char broiled in amino acids, garnished with diatomaceous RNA, and phalanxed by remnants of numerous failed evolutionary life forms, I at least found the meal to be very sumptuous!

Day 1 (07-May-2011) Singapore - Lijiang

Yunnan province in China is the most diverse in the country, both biologically as well as culturally. It is said to possess as much flowering plant diversity as the rest of the northern hemisphere put together. The province also accounts for only 4% of China’s surface area, but is home to half of China’s bird and animal wildlife. It is situated in the southwest of the country, and borders Laos, Burma and Vietnam. Ethnic minorities, some with historical links to these bordering countries, account for 34% of Yunnan’s population, but 50% of all the officially recognised ethnic groups in China. It’s capital Kunming assumed great strategic significance as the gateway for trade with the Indian subcontinent and Central Asia, and in more recent times as the terminus for the Burma Road.

Kunming was also to be our initial arrival destination for our next cycling adventure, organised again through Spice Roads. The Antipodean contingent flew into Singapore on various flights over the previous two days, with all expedition members arriving on time for check-in on the 03:00hrs flight to Kunming. We had hoped to check luggage all the way through to Lijiang, with tickets issued for both legs. Alas, this was not permitted, with everyone having to first clear Immigration and Customs in Kunming, and then check-in again for the domestic flight to Lijiang. With only two hours to spare between flights, I for one fretted over the possibility of missing the connecting flight through lengthy queues. However, to everyone’s pleasant surprise, we sailed through the various formalities, and found ourselves sitting down to a breakfast banquet at Kunming airport with an hour to spare.

The onward flight to Lijiang afforded us our first spectacular views of the Hengduan Shan mountain range. Our initial excitement however was immediately replaced by a sense of foreboding, as the sight of vertiginous winding roads through deep valleys and over giant peaks seemed to contrast greatly with the ‘moderately undulating’ description given to use by the expedition organisers. This thinly veiled perpetration of terminological inexactitudes left many fleeing for the emergency exits!

Having barely contained all-out panic, we disembarked at Lijiang’s brand new airport and were met by our expedition leader, Cathy, and her 2iC, Thai Chun. Given the newly anticipated arduous nature of our cycling expedition, we had expected to be met by someone with Tour de France credentials and huge lungs encased in a sinuous body atop Lawrence Dallaglio’s legs. We were thus utterly dismayed to discover that Cathy, a Chinese national, is half the size of Andy, a quarter of Simon’s weight, with calf muscles smaller than Darren’s wrists. However, in the days ahead, we learned the hard way not to underestimate her svelte diminutive frame and cute smile – Genghis Khan incited less fear than her cruel embrace.

The bone-shattering journey to the Hexi Hotel located in Lijiang’s Ancient Dayan Town district afforded us our first views of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, which was a pleasant distraction not only for us, but clearly for the city planners too, who had omitted to build a road connecting the new airport to the city. The rest of the day was spent exploring the Old Town, a UNESCO World Heritage site, that is a preserve of Naxi culture, art and architecture. A journey through this maze of canals and narrow streets far eclipses a tour through any overseas ‘China Towns’.