Fortunately, we were given the option of a bus transfer across the first two high passes, conserving tired legs, and also reducing distance travelled from 100km to a more palatable 65km. During the transit there was a marked change in scenery. The surrounding hills were no longer cut through with cultivated terraces, with arable farming by the Naxi giving way to cattle farming by Tibetan peoples. From the drop-off point, we first descended, before then embarking on an epic 600m (1968ft) ascent to the highest point on the expedition at 3735m (12,253ft). We then embarked on an exhilarating 5km steep descent onto flat grassland plains for our morning tea break.
As we dismounted Lee was spotted dashing across a grass field filled with grazing Yaks towards the hills on the far side. It was then we saw two large Gryphons take to the skies – a magnificent site of the largest bird in Asia. I then leaped across the field myself hoping to catch them on video. Fortunately, one of the Gryphons landed close by, allowing me to film the bird as he first hopped up the side of a steep slope before taking to the skies once more - huge wow factor!
After tea, we continued on our journey, travelling a further 14km on a gentle downward gradient on the main road to Shangri La, the capital of Diqing Tibeten Autonomous Prefecture, and which was formally named Zhongdian until 2001. It was then renamed after the fictional land featured in the 1933 movie Lost Horizon in an effort to promote tourism to the area. Along the way we passed many large newly constructed houses built in classical Tibetan style, with thick wooden pillars fronting a large timber frame, covered with local stone, and finished in plaster. By the time we commenced the last 3km uphill section the cycling team had again spread out, with the gap then widening still further as the front riders sprinted up the hill and down the other side for another 4km. The team then regrouped for the final 12km ride along the plains into town, arriving at the opulent Nanka Hotel just in time for lunch.
Following another sumptuous feast we then descended on a local cafe situated in a small square close to the Hotel. There we imbibed on our first cup of real coffee in 4 days, chased down by a selection of cakes that alas more than offset the calories burned on the day’s bike ride! While others then went shopping, Astrid & I set off to tour the old town, and in particular the Tibetan temple located on the main square. To the left is a museum, providing a fascinating insight into the history, life and customs of the various local ethnic groups. It also houses an excellent exhibit on the audacious and epic Long March, featuring firsthand accounts of the hardships and depravations experienced by soldiers of the Communist armies desperately trying to avoid encirclement by Chiang Kai Shek’s forces. Regardless of one’s view about Mao Ze Dong or Chinese Communism, he was undoubtedly a brilliant military strategist. Not only was he responsible for pulling off one of the greatest military disengagements in history, he then marshalled the surviving remnants of the Long March to attack and ultimately defeat the vastly more numerous and better equipped forces under Kai Shek.Dinner was yet another sumptuous feast, after which we then retired to the Hotel for a few more beverages and to check e-mails.
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