19 May 2011

Day 3 (09-May-2011) Lijiang - Tiger Leaping Gorge

We left the Hotel at 08:00hrs and were taken by bus to the entrance of Laojunshan National Park. Following 30 minute wait for the 2nd bus carrying our bikes to catch up we continued our journey into the park for the start of the day’s ride at a small reservoir. This very scenic location was mobbed by hundreds of Chinese tourists, queuing for a Yak ride across the river that empties over salt terraces into the reservoir and to have their photo taken in front of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, dressed in local costume.

The first 1.3km of the bike route rose gently up the side of a hill to the top of the valley, which afforded spectacular views over the entire national park. We then hurtled downhill along a winding road for 3.7km towards ‘hell on Earth’ – a 4.5km uphill ascent on cobble stones. Even with shock absorbers and gel saddles the ride proved debilitating, jarring teeth and crushing genitals alike. Indeed, only those with no genitals were able to progress at any speed – with Simon reaching the top of the next pass 30 minutes before anyone else! Andy on the other hand, known to those within his ‘circle of trust’ as The Man Called Horse, was last, feigning a puncture and a slipped chain to deflect suspicions that the family jewels packed a major hindrance....i.e. his meat and two veg were scrambled into bubble-and-squeak!

We then continued uphill for another 11.5km to the highest point of the day at 3280m (10761ft) for morning tea, after which we began an exhilarating 30km race to Daju at 1700m (5577ft). Cathy proved to be the most fearless, reaching a top speed of over 65km/hr. I and other mere mortals free-wheeled at more sedentary speeds in order to capture video and photos of the ever changing landscape and stunning terraced hills, cradling a vast plateau. The culmination was our first view of the raging Yangtze river. Collateral damage during the descent was quite minor, with only one puncture, a broken chain and one set of stuck front brakes.

Following a pleasant lunch at Daju we cycled to the edge of the plateau, which ends dramatically in a steep drop-off into a gorge etched by the Yangtze. We then handed our bikes to waiting porters and followed them on foot down the side of the gorge to a jetty at the bottom. Following short ferry ride across the river we then had to hike out the far side of the gorge, which proved very exhausting.

Reunited with our bikes we then cycled further 14km uphill to our final destination at Walnut Grove, along the famous Tiger Leaping Gorge; the deepest scar on the surface of the Earth. This last 14km sapped the will to live, with a strong biting headwind arresting our progress and reducing progress to a near crawl. However, perseverance ultimately paid off, with the team arriving at the Hotel just before 18:30hrs, having covered a total of 72km.

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