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Day 4 (10-May-2011) Tiger Leaping Gorge
There are no words to adequately describe the enormity and majesty of Tiger Leaping Gorge. Quoting numbers and statistics instead would also fail to adequately capture the overwhelming sense of personal insignificance and the immensity of natural forces that have clashed over eons to create this landmark. The sight of shear granite walls rising 2000m (6561ft) above the Yangtze river, and extending a further 1900m up to the summit of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain at 5596m (18360ft) on one side, and to the summit of Haba Snow Mountain at 5396m (17703ft) on the other side, would not be amiss in Tolkien’s mythical Middle Earth. To render this place in anything other than pictures would simply beggar belief and be a grave injustice to one of Nature’s Great Wonders. And so today’s blog is devoted more to pictures than narrative.
A very similar, and more frightening experience, involving size and scale of a more anthropogenic origin, was encountered shortly before breakfast. Andy, who until now, had suffered quiescent bowel movement, at last managed to initiate an all out pre-emptive strike, and in so doing launched the single largest weapon of mass destruction known to mankind. Alas, early in its trajectory, it stubbornly refused to traverse the S-bend, and only after much prodding, did it continue on its stealth mission to blockade the Yangtze river. Indeed, so large was this ‘floater’ that we felt compelled to christen it during orbit insertion around the dining hall, after which it was hurled by the Hotel plumber in a final course correction down the terraced slopes to the gorge below.
After breakfast, we embarked on a brief hike down through the beautiful terraces in front of the hotel towards the roar of the Yangtze at the bottom of the gorge. Once there we found ourselves engulfed in a ‘surround-sound’ experience induced by the rhythmic pounding of waves crashing against rocks through Grade 5 rapids. We also found ourselves intimidated by the apparent way in which the vertiginous granite wall on the far side crouched over us to leave just a small slice of blue sky far above.
Following slow ascent back to the hotel we settled down to lunch, followed by brief Siesta. At 14:00hrs a few foolhardy souls (including myself) set off on our bikes, in blistering afternoon heat, to visit the narrowest section of the gorge. It is at this location that, according to local legend, a tiger leaped from one side to the other to escape the murderous arrows of a mythical hunter. Alas, the trip proved to be more arduous than envisaged, as aside to the heat, our legs were very fatigued and we found ourselves having to negotiate several steep inclines. However, our efforts were duly rewarded with fantastic views of raging waters being funnelled through an impossibly small outlet, with the resulting torrent creating an ear-splitting cacophony and a menacing vibration that weakened the knees.
Fortunately, sense rather than valour prevailed, and so we then opted to have Mr. Wong collect us in the minivan for the return journey to the Hotel. Dinner was another sumptuous feast, washed down with a few beers. As there was no electricity, there was no light pollution, except for the dim glow of candles. As eyes slowly adjusted to the dark, the heavens revealed a bright starry sky, with the Milky Way through the centre of our galaxy clearly visible. Against this backdrop, it was also possible to identify the occasional satelite in low earth orbit as it traversed the night sky.
There are no words to adequately describe the enormity and majesty of Tiger Leaping Gorge. Quoting numbers and statistics instead would also fail to adequately capture the overwhelming sense of personal insignificance and the immensity of natural forces that have clashed over eons to create this landmark. The sight of shear granite walls rising 2000m (6561ft) above the Yangtze river, and extending a further 1900m up to the summit of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain at 5596m (18360ft) on one side, and to the summit of Haba Snow Mountain at 5396m (17703ft) on the other side, would not be amiss in Tolkien’s mythical Middle Earth. To render this place in anything other than pictures would simply beggar belief and be a grave injustice to one of Nature’s Great Wonders. And so today’s blog is devoted more to pictures than narrative.
A very similar, and more frightening experience, involving size and scale of a more anthropogenic origin, was encountered shortly before breakfast. Andy, who until now, had suffered quiescent bowel movement, at last managed to initiate an all out pre-emptive strike, and in so doing launched the single largest weapon of mass destruction known to mankind. Alas, early in its trajectory, it stubbornly refused to traverse the S-bend, and only after much prodding, did it continue on its stealth mission to blockade the Yangtze river. Indeed, so large was this ‘floater’ that we felt compelled to christen it during orbit insertion around the dining hall, after which it was hurled by the Hotel plumber in a final course correction down the terraced slopes to the gorge below.
After breakfast, we embarked on a brief hike down through the beautiful terraces in front of the hotel towards the roar of the Yangtze at the bottom of the gorge. Once there we found ourselves engulfed in a ‘surround-sound’ experience induced by the rhythmic pounding of waves crashing against rocks through Grade 5 rapids. We also found ourselves intimidated by the apparent way in which the vertiginous granite wall on the far side crouched over us to leave just a small slice of blue sky far above.
Following slow ascent back to the hotel we settled down to lunch, followed by brief Siesta. At 14:00hrs a few foolhardy souls (including myself) set off on our bikes, in blistering afternoon heat, to visit the narrowest section of the gorge. It is at this location that, according to local legend, a tiger leaped from one side to the other to escape the murderous arrows of a mythical hunter. Alas, the trip proved to be more arduous than envisaged, as aside to the heat, our legs were very fatigued and we found ourselves having to negotiate several steep inclines. However, our efforts were duly rewarded with fantastic views of raging waters being funnelled through an impossibly small outlet, with the resulting torrent creating an ear-splitting cacophony and a menacing vibration that weakened the knees.
Fortunately, sense rather than valour prevailed, and so we then opted to have Mr. Wong collect us in the minivan for the return journey to the Hotel. Dinner was another sumptuous feast, washed down with a few beers. As there was no electricity, there was no light pollution, except for the dim glow of candles. As eyes slowly adjusted to the dark, the heavens revealed a bright starry sky, with the Milky Way through the centre of our galaxy clearly visible. Against this backdrop, it was also possible to identify the occasional satelite in low earth orbit as it traversed the night sky.
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