19 May 2011

Day 7 (13-May-2011) Shangri La - Stone Drum Town

This was by far the coldest day, with air temperature hovering around 8C, with wind chill adding to the misery once we got underway. Even with multiple layers of clothing it was not long before the cold cut through to numb extremities, though some had been deprived of any sensation in some 'crucial' extremities for some days! From the Nanka Hotel the route ascended immediately uphill to Lesser Zhongdian, before levelling off, with morning tea provided after completing 38km. On route Darren had a puncture, with the rest of the team stopping so Lee could affect repairs. In so doing however, Bryan The Invincible failed to detach his right cleat before the bike came to a halt, causing both he plus bike to plummet down the embankment at the side of the road, with Bryan let facing uphill pinned beneath the bike. Instantly, with no regard for personal safety, and in an exemplary demonstration of his commitment to his amateur profession, Simon rushed forward to capture Bryan’s embarrassment and struggles on film, offering no assistance whatsoever to preserve a fully detached voyeuristic sense of realism.

After tea we continued for a further 3km on flat terrain, before commencing a gentle 5km uphill ascent to the edge of the plains at 3300m (10,826ft). We then embarked on an exhilarating 40km downhill ascent along steep and winding roads down to Qiaotou on the banks of the Yangtze at 1840m (6036ft). As with previous long descents team members were careful not to take much risk, as any mishaps could be potentially fatal. Nonetheless, cycling speeds routinely exceeded 50km/hr, overtaking many lorries in the process, with Simon recording the highest speed, approaching 70km/hr. However, as a stark reminder of what could happen in case of mechanical failure or reckless driving, our downward progress was brought to an abrupt halt 10km short of the village, with both sides of the road barracked by the police, while a large crane pulled a crushed 25 ton 4-axle lorry from the river coursing alongside the road.

Following lunch at Qiaotou, we travelled by bus along the banks of the Yangtze river to Stone Drum Town, situated at the first major bend in the river as it crosses into China from Tibet. This town derives its name from a white marble carved monument in the shape of a drum, (diameter 15m, thickness 0.7m). This monument memorializes the victory and subsequent spread of power of Baizhuang, the Tusi of Mu Family of Lijiang, during the Jiajin years of the Ming Dynasty. The bus route to the village is very scenic, with numerous stop-offs arranged to capture photos and video. We also stopped at a roadside market to buy locally grown fresh strawberries which are famed throughout China. A 2 kilo bucket of these very sweet and tasty gems cost just US$4.00!

On arrival at the village we booked into the Shi Hong Hotel, after which we recounted the day’s experiences between mouthful’s of fresh strawberries, washed down with a few beers. Following yet another banquet dinner we went for a short walk through town and watched the sunset along the corniche by the mighty Yangtze river.

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