Day 5 (11-May-2011) Tiger Leaping Gorge - Bai Shui Tai

Though not the longest day, or the longest leg of the cycling expedition, this day would turn out to be the most arduous. We departed the hotel in Walnut Grove at 07:00hrs and descended 10km back to the village of Heika at 1760m (5774ft) where we emerged after the 2km hike from the gorge 2 days previous. We then began a long 24km ascent towards the pass at 2848m (9343ft) above the Naxi village of Haba. The first 3km was steep, with the road snaking its way up the mountainside around numerous hairpin bends.

As we ascended, the views back along Tiger Leaping Gorge and across the plains above Daju behind us was absolutely stunning, compelling some to make frequent stops at different vantage points along the route to record the changing landscape, while others stopped simply to prevent cardiac arrest! We thus split into smaller groups that slowly spread out over +/- 2km by the time we reached our first tea break after further 9km. We then embarked on the final 12km uphill section, reaching the pass at 10:15hrs in blistering sunshine. Following brief rest to regroup and take in the breathtaking view of the valley below us, we then descended at speed down to Haba, which was situated near the head of the valley at 2666m (8747ft). With just 30m to go, Mighty Mitchel managed to break his chain - yet again.

Lunch was, as ever, sumptuous, and, as ever, washed down with a few local ales. We then embarked on a second but shorter 4.5km uphill ascent to another pass at 2875m (9432ft). For some, this proved to be far more arduous than the longer morning ascent, in part due to the oppressive heat, but also due to creeping exhaustion and full stomachs. After further obligatory photos of fellow wheezing cyclists and landscapes, we continued along a slow undulating 28km descent in to Bai Shui Tai. This village is the birth place of the Naxi ethnic minority’s Dongba religion. There are also springs here high in calcium carbonate that run down the mountain slopes, forming calcified salt terraces covering an area of 3km2.

Despite covering a mere 70km for the day, we arrived tired, jaded and very thirsty. Indeed, such was our thirst that, before retiring to the Hotel to wash and change, we drank the entire stock of cold beer available in the village!