Day 8 (14-May-2011) Stone Drum Village - Shaxi Village

A few brave souls, led by Astrid, opted to cycle the entire 90km route to Shaxi, involving an initial 600m (1968ft) ascent out of Shaxi to the ‘Old Tibet’ road in the heart of rural Yunnan. This first group left at 07:30hrs in a cool breeze, with the rest departing an hour later by bus to rejoin us at the morning tea stop after 25km. The initial uphill stage was arduous but enjoyable, with stunning landscapes encountered below a cloudless blue sky.

Following morning tea, we then continued as a single group along the busy ‘Old Tibet’ road, which runs alongside, and in some places crosses, a brand new 6-lane highway and rail track under construction; one of many examples encountered during our cycling trek of the massive investment by the Chinese government in infrastructure projects. Clearly seeking both attention and sympathy, Donna managed to inflict three punctures in her rear tyre, prior to, and even during, lunch! However, such distractions paled compared to the many ‘close encounters’ with oncoming traffic, which seemed to lack both spatial or visual awareness. None of this however detracted from the vistas of ploughed and sown cultivated terraces that extended in all directions as far as the eye could see – truly a marvel of intensive organic agriculture, using little if any modern mechanisation.

After lunch we veered off the main road to traverse what was meant to be our last major ‘mountain stage’ – a 3km ascent, gaining 400m altitude. As such, there were a few determined to claim the ‘King of the Hill’ green jersey. Following some initial jockeying for position on a short steep downhill section prior to the climb, it soon became evident that only three were left with any chance of securing the title. Simon was in pole position, with myself and Mitchel in close hot pursuit. Shortly after the first hairpin bend I found myself alongside Simon, and, with a look of suitable disdain at a spent force, picked up a gear to take the lead, with the pitiful sounding lament of ‘so we’re not cycling together then?’ echoing in my ears.

Not long after I heard Simon curse again, this time in a very surprised tone, as Mitchel burst from behind for the first time, clearly intent on saving family honours following the demise of his Dad; now also a has-been. I first felt, rather than heard, Mitchel close the gap on my position, as he tried, in vain, to run me off the road by deliberately crashing into my rear tyre. However, before I could respond, he raced past me at phenomenal speed, opening a gap of 50m in a matter of seconds. Slowly but surely however I managed to cut the gap, and found myself on his tail after another 1km. At that point, it was evident Mitchel was now bored with racing, and so opted instead to stop for a view of the mountain scenery. I continued to the top unchallenged, though with Simon not far behind.

On regrouping at the summit, we then embarked on a 10km steep descent to the charming village of Shaxi, stopping once on route for a spectacular view of the valley, before then arriving at the Lao Mandian Hotel; a converted barn, yet easily the most luxurious accommodation of the entire trip. Shaxi once played an important role as a bustling trade station on the Tea and Horse Caravan Road, an important branch of the Silk Road. Just over one thousand years ago, this ancient trade route connected Tibet with Eastern China. In exchange for teas from Yunnan, Tibetans traded their famous breed of horse to Song Dynasty officials in eastern China, who were busy defending their territory from invaders from the north. Thus the Tea and Horse Caravan was born. Shaxi became the main trade station along this route.Though today Tibet and China don’t trade along this route, Shaxi still has that border-town feel. Old cobble-stoned alleyways still look like they did a thousand years ago. And different minorities, including the Yi and Bai, still clash every Friday during the Sideng Market when mountain villagers come down from the hills to trade their goods. The World Monuments Fund has listed Shaxi as one of the 100 most endangered sites in the world; therefore, Shaxi has recently undergone massive efforts to preserve ancient architecture and culture.

Equally appreciated was the coffee shop on the opposite side of the town square, owned and run by a charming couple, serving divine Arabia coffee, brewed in every style imaginable. While devouring a few hot Mochas it soon became evident that this village was a popular tourist place, not only for other Chinese, but for foreigners also. And certainly both the Bai and Yi people in this district were charming and very polite, and had an obvious love of animals, with a very cute and playful puppy quickly becoming the centre of attention. We also befriended a very cute kitten, which took to sleeping on Astrid’s lap whenever possible. After yet another sumptuous banquet, we retired to the coffee shop for some ‘hard liquor’, devouring between us more alcoholic beverages in one night than at any time since the cafe opened in 2006!!!