Day 10 (16-May-2011) Er Yuan - Dali

This was to be our last day of cycling, with again an alternative and more scenic route chosen to that stated in our original itinerary. Instead of travelling the more direct route on major roads to Dali, we would instead take a more circuitous route on the back roads along the shores of Er Hai Lake. Alas, on transfer by bus to the start of the day’s ride at the shores of the lake, the heavens opened, with low hanging clouds obscuring visibility. Undeterred, we nonetheless donned our wet weather clothing and set off along the dirt road.

The incessant rain however soon transformed the dirt road into a quagmire, with bikes and clothing soon covered in mud, and with bodies drenched and chilled to the bone. After just 15km of difficult and bone-jarring cycling we opted to abandon the bicycles in favour of a quicker and more comfortable bus transfer over the remaining 60km to Dali. Despite protection from the elements, we nonetheless arrived at the Landscape Hotel still shivering. Our immediate priority therefore was to wash clothes and warm bodies in a hot shower, before then meeting in the Hotel restaurant for a late lunch.

The rest of the day was spent drinking more coffee, touring the old town in Dali, and searching for some final souvenirs. Dali is situated in the foothills of the Himilayas and is the ancient capital of the Bai kingdom during the 8th and 9th centuries, and the Kingdom of Dali, which flourished from the 9th to 13th centuries. Situated in a once significantly Muslim part of South China, Dali was also the center of the Panthay Rebellion against the reigning imperial Qing Dynasty, and is still home to a large Muslim population.

We then assembled at 19:00hrs for yet another banquet, with Cathy and her accomplices presenting me with a sumptuous mint chocolate birthday cake! Needless to say everybody was eager for a slice, with only the candles left after the first serving. This birthday celebration also served to mark the end of a memorable trek, with everyone completing the entire route on bikes, with no injury or sickness encountered, and with nothing taken away except fond memories. We were also left with a new and enlighted respect and appreciation for both the old and new Chinas, rubbing shoulder to shoulder in an uneasy alliance in some places, and with amazement tempered with the ever present concern for both the human cost and environmental impact of China's meteoric pace towards modernity. Set against this chaos however was the serene and stoic smiles of the many people from the many different ethnic minorities that we encountered on our journey.This, in the face of so many adversities, is perhaps their greatest achievement of all.

Day 9 (15-May-2011) Shaxi Village - Er Yuan

After tearful farewell to canine and feline critters, we embarked on very pleasant 38km gradual descent down the valley. In a change to the original itinerary, we then opted to become the first expedition to cycle an alternative route along back roads, rather than the main road, to Er Yaun. This alternative route involved having to ascend a daunting 1260m (4133ft) to the saddle separating the two valleys, along a 32km winding, and in some places very steep, uphill road, littered with pot holes.

Tackling this route would prove to be as much of a mental challenge as a physical one, given none had ever attempted a climb of this magnitude before, and with legs already quite exhausted from the cumulative exertion of the previous 7 days. To make matters worse, we also faced a strong head wind up the lower slopes, and heavy driving rain up the middle traverse.

But this was to be Simon’s day of triumph. Owing to a misunderstanding on group strategy, he found himself in front and alone, with no alternative but to continue the ascent solo, lest he succumb to potential hypothermia from the driving cold rain. That he managed to do so is a testament to his intestinal fortitude, and to accomplish this feat without stopping, arriving an hour before the rest of us, speaks volumes about his mental toughness also. The rest of us limped up in a more sedate manner, stopping every 5km to regroup and rest, eventually reaching the summit at 16:00hrs.

We then embarked on another exhilarating descent from the saddle down into the next valley, descending 845m (2772ft) in less than an hour. If anything, this descent was also the most difficult attempted to date, given that much of the road had been washed away, causing loss of traction on a number of occasions. Finally, when Simon’s bike was struck by yet another puncture, we opted to cover the final 18km to Er Yuan by bus, arriving at 18:30hrs. In total, we had cycled 88km, with many suffering from aching necks, shoulders, wrists and also tired legs as we jumped into the famous hot springs at the hotel.

Having foregone lunch during our epic ascent, we were also starving, and so while soothing aches and pains, we also scoffed several large packets of crisps, washed down with a few beers to anesthetise ailing body parts beyond the reach of any spa treatment. We then barely managed to consume dinner before sleep overwhelmed us all.

Day 8 (14-May-2011) Stone Drum Village - Shaxi Village

A few brave souls, led by Astrid, opted to cycle the entire 90km route to Shaxi, involving an initial 600m (1968ft) ascent out of Shaxi to the ‘Old Tibet’ road in the heart of rural Yunnan. This first group left at 07:30hrs in a cool breeze, with the rest departing an hour later by bus to rejoin us at the morning tea stop after 25km. The initial uphill stage was arduous but enjoyable, with stunning landscapes encountered below a cloudless blue sky.

Following morning tea, we then continued as a single group along the busy ‘Old Tibet’ road, which runs alongside, and in some places crosses, a brand new 6-lane highway and rail track under construction; one of many examples encountered during our cycling trek of the massive investment by the Chinese government in infrastructure projects. Clearly seeking both attention and sympathy, Donna managed to inflict three punctures in her rear tyre, prior to, and even during, lunch! However, such distractions paled compared to the many ‘close encounters’ with oncoming traffic, which seemed to lack both spatial or visual awareness. None of this however detracted from the vistas of ploughed and sown cultivated terraces that extended in all directions as far as the eye could see – truly a marvel of intensive organic agriculture, using little if any modern mechanisation.

After lunch we veered off the main road to traverse what was meant to be our last major ‘mountain stage’ – a 3km ascent, gaining 400m altitude. As such, there were a few determined to claim the ‘King of the Hill’ green jersey. Following some initial jockeying for position on a short steep downhill section prior to the climb, it soon became evident that only three were left with any chance of securing the title. Simon was in pole position, with myself and Mitchel in close hot pursuit. Shortly after the first hairpin bend I found myself alongside Simon, and, with a look of suitable disdain at a spent force, picked up a gear to take the lead, with the pitiful sounding lament of ‘so we’re not cycling together then?’ echoing in my ears.

Not long after I heard Simon curse again, this time in a very surprised tone, as Mitchel burst from behind for the first time, clearly intent on saving family honours following the demise of his Dad; now also a has-been. I first felt, rather than heard, Mitchel close the gap on my position, as he tried, in vain, to run me off the road by deliberately crashing into my rear tyre. However, before I could respond, he raced past me at phenomenal speed, opening a gap of 50m in a matter of seconds. Slowly but surely however I managed to cut the gap, and found myself on his tail after another 1km. At that point, it was evident Mitchel was now bored with racing, and so opted instead to stop for a view of the mountain scenery. I continued to the top unchallenged, though with Simon not far behind.

On regrouping at the summit, we then embarked on a 10km steep descent to the charming village of Shaxi, stopping once on route for a spectacular view of the valley, before then arriving at the Lao Mandian Hotel; a converted barn, yet easily the most luxurious accommodation of the entire trip. Shaxi once played an important role as a bustling trade station on the Tea and Horse Caravan Road, an important branch of the Silk Road. Just over one thousand years ago, this ancient trade route connected Tibet with Eastern China. In exchange for teas from Yunnan, Tibetans traded their famous breed of horse to Song Dynasty officials in eastern China, who were busy defending their territory from invaders from the north. Thus the Tea and Horse Caravan was born. Shaxi became the main trade station along this route.Though today Tibet and China don’t trade along this route, Shaxi still has that border-town feel. Old cobble-stoned alleyways still look like they did a thousand years ago. And different minorities, including the Yi and Bai, still clash every Friday during the Sideng Market when mountain villagers come down from the hills to trade their goods. The World Monuments Fund has listed Shaxi as one of the 100 most endangered sites in the world; therefore, Shaxi has recently undergone massive efforts to preserve ancient architecture and culture.

Equally appreciated was the coffee shop on the opposite side of the town square, owned and run by a charming couple, serving divine Arabia coffee, brewed in every style imaginable. While devouring a few hot Mochas it soon became evident that this village was a popular tourist place, not only for other Chinese, but for foreigners also. And certainly both the Bai and Yi people in this district were charming and very polite, and had an obvious love of animals, with a very cute and playful puppy quickly becoming the centre of attention. We also befriended a very cute kitten, which took to sleeping on Astrid’s lap whenever possible. After yet another sumptuous banquet, we retired to the coffee shop for some ‘hard liquor’, devouring between us more alcoholic beverages in one night than at any time since the cafe opened in 2006!!!

Day 7 (13-May-2011) Shangri La - Stone Drum Town

This was by far the coldest day, with air temperature hovering around 8C, with wind chill adding to the misery once we got underway. Even with multiple layers of clothing it was not long before the cold cut through to numb extremities, though some had been deprived of any sensation in some 'crucial' extremities for some days! From the Nanka Hotel the route ascended immediately uphill to Lesser Zhongdian, before levelling off, with morning tea provided after completing 38km. On route Darren had a puncture, with the rest of the team stopping so Lee could affect repairs. In so doing however, Bryan The Invincible failed to detach his right cleat before the bike came to a halt, causing both he plus bike to plummet down the embankment at the side of the road, with Bryan let facing uphill pinned beneath the bike. Instantly, with no regard for personal safety, and in an exemplary demonstration of his commitment to his amateur profession, Simon rushed forward to capture Bryan’s embarrassment and struggles on film, offering no assistance whatsoever to preserve a fully detached voyeuristic sense of realism.

After tea we continued for a further 3km on flat terrain, before commencing a gentle 5km uphill ascent to the edge of the plains at 3300m (10,826ft). We then embarked on an exhilarating 40km downhill ascent along steep and winding roads down to Qiaotou on the banks of the Yangtze at 1840m (6036ft). As with previous long descents team members were careful not to take much risk, as any mishaps could be potentially fatal. Nonetheless, cycling speeds routinely exceeded 50km/hr, overtaking many lorries in the process, with Simon recording the highest speed, approaching 70km/hr. However, as a stark reminder of what could happen in case of mechanical failure or reckless driving, our downward progress was brought to an abrupt halt 10km short of the village, with both sides of the road barracked by the police, while a large crane pulled a crushed 25 ton 4-axle lorry from the river coursing alongside the road.

Following lunch at Qiaotou, we travelled by bus along the banks of the Yangtze river to Stone Drum Town, situated at the first major bend in the river as it crosses into China from Tibet. This town derives its name from a white marble carved monument in the shape of a drum, (diameter 15m, thickness 0.7m). This monument memorializes the victory and subsequent spread of power of Baizhuang, the Tusi of Mu Family of Lijiang, during the Jiajin years of the Ming Dynasty. The bus route to the village is very scenic, with numerous stop-offs arranged to capture photos and video. We also stopped at a roadside market to buy locally grown fresh strawberries which are famed throughout China. A 2 kilo bucket of these very sweet and tasty gems cost just US$4.00!

On arrival at the village we booked into the Shi Hong Hotel, after which we recounted the day’s experiences between mouthful’s of fresh strawberries, washed down with a few beers. Following yet another banquet dinner we went for a short walk through town and watched the sunset along the corniche by the mighty Yangtze river.

Day 6 (12-May-2011) Bai Shui Tai - Shangri La

Fortunately, we were given the option of a bus transfer across the first two high passes, conserving tired legs, and also reducing distance travelled from 100km to a more palatable 65km. During the transit there was a marked change in scenery. The surrounding hills were no longer cut through with cultivated terraces, with arable farming by the Naxi giving way to cattle farming by Tibetan peoples. From the drop-off point, we first descended, before then embarking on an epic 600m (1968ft) ascent to the highest point on the expedition at 3735m (12,253ft). We then embarked on an exhilarating 5km steep descent onto flat grassland plains for our morning tea break.

As we dismounted Lee was spotted dashing across a grass field filled with grazing Yaks towards the hills on the far side. It was then we saw two large Gryphons take to the skies – a magnificent site of the largest bird in Asia. I then leaped across the field myself hoping to catch them on video. Fortunately, one of the Gryphons landed close by, allowing me to film the bird as he first hopped up the side of a steep slope before taking to the skies once more - huge wow factor!

After tea, we continued on our journey, travelling a further 14km on a gentle downward gradient on the main road to Shangri La, the capital of Diqing Tibeten Autonomous Prefecture, and which was formally named Zhongdian until 2001. It was then renamed after the fictional land featured in the 1933 movie Lost Horizon in an effort to promote tourism to the area. Along the way we passed many large newly constructed houses built in classical Tibetan style, with thick wooden pillars fronting a large timber frame, covered with local stone, and finished in plaster. By the time we commenced the last 3km uphill section the cycling team had again spread out, with the gap then widening still further as the front riders sprinted up the hill and down the other side for another 4km. The team then regrouped for the final 12km ride along the plains into town, arriving at the opulent Nanka Hotel just in time for lunch.

Following another sumptuous feast we then descended on a local cafe situated in a small square close to the Hotel. There we imbibed on our first cup of real coffee in 4 days, chased down by a selection of cakes that alas more than offset the calories burned on the day’s bike ride! While others then went shopping, Astrid & I set off to tour the old town, and in particular the Tibetan temple located on the main square. To the left is a museum, providing a fascinating insight into the history, life and customs of the various local ethnic groups. It also houses an excellent exhibit on the audacious and epic Long March, featuring firsthand accounts of the hardships and depravations experienced by soldiers of the Communist armies desperately trying to avoid encirclement by Chiang Kai Shek’s forces. Regardless of one’s view about Mao Ze Dong or Chinese Communism, he was undoubtedly a brilliant military strategist. Not only was he responsible for pulling off one of the greatest military disengagements in history, he then marshalled the surviving remnants of the Long March to attack and ultimately defeat the vastly more numerous and better equipped forces under Kai Shek.

Dinner was yet another sumptuous feast, after which we then retired to the Hotel for a few more beverages and to check e-mails.

Day 5 (11-May-2011) Tiger Leaping Gorge - Bai Shui Tai

Though not the longest day, or the longest leg of the cycling expedition, this day would turn out to be the most arduous. We departed the hotel in Walnut Grove at 07:00hrs and descended 10km back to the village of Heika at 1760m (5774ft) where we emerged after the 2km hike from the gorge 2 days previous. We then began a long 24km ascent towards the pass at 2848m (9343ft) above the Naxi village of Haba. The first 3km was steep, with the road snaking its way up the mountainside around numerous hairpin bends.

As we ascended, the views back along Tiger Leaping Gorge and across the plains above Daju behind us was absolutely stunning, compelling some to make frequent stops at different vantage points along the route to record the changing landscape, while others stopped simply to prevent cardiac arrest! We thus split into smaller groups that slowly spread out over +/- 2km by the time we reached our first tea break after further 9km. We then embarked on the final 12km uphill section, reaching the pass at 10:15hrs in blistering sunshine. Following brief rest to regroup and take in the breathtaking view of the valley below us, we then descended at speed down to Haba, which was situated near the head of the valley at 2666m (8747ft). With just 30m to go, Mighty Mitchel managed to break his chain - yet again.

Lunch was, as ever, sumptuous, and, as ever, washed down with a few local ales. We then embarked on a second but shorter 4.5km uphill ascent to another pass at 2875m (9432ft). For some, this proved to be far more arduous than the longer morning ascent, in part due to the oppressive heat, but also due to creeping exhaustion and full stomachs. After further obligatory photos of fellow wheezing cyclists and landscapes, we continued along a slow undulating 28km descent in to Bai Shui Tai. This village is the birth place of the Naxi ethnic minority’s Dongba religion. There are also springs here high in calcium carbonate that run down the mountain slopes, forming calcified salt terraces covering an area of 3km2.

Despite covering a mere 70km for the day, we arrived tired, jaded and very thirsty. Indeed, such was our thirst that, before retiring to the Hotel to wash and change, we drank the entire stock of cold beer available in the village!

Day 4 (10-May-2011) Tiger Leaping Gorge

There are no words to adequately describe the enormity and majesty of Tiger Leaping Gorge. Quoting numbers and statistics instead would also fail to adequately capture the overwhelming sense of personal insignificance and the immensity of natural forces that have clashed over eons to create this landmark. The sight of shear granite walls rising 2000m (6561ft) above the Yangtze river, and extending a further 1900m up to the summit of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain at 5596m (18360ft) on one side, and to the summit of Haba Snow Mountain at 5396m (17703ft) on the other side, would not be amiss in Tolkien’s mythical Middle Earth. To render this place in anything other than pictures would simply beggar belief and be a grave injustice to one of Nature’s Great Wonders. And so today’s blog is devoted more to pictures than narrative.

A very similar, and more frightening experience, involving size and scale of a more anthropogenic origin, was encountered shortly before breakfast. Andy, who until now, had suffered quiescent bowel movement, at last managed to initiate an all out pre-emptive strike, and in so doing launched the single largest weapon of mass destruction known to mankind. Alas, early in its trajectory, it stubbornly refused to traverse the S-bend, and only after much prodding, did it continue on its stealth mission to blockade the Yangtze river. Indeed, so large was this ‘floater’ that we felt compelled to christen it during orbit insertion around the dining hall, after which it was hurled by the Hotel plumber in a final course correction down the terraced slopes to the gorge below.

After breakfast, we embarked on a brief hike down through the beautiful terraces in front of the hotel towards the roar of the Yangtze at the bottom of the gorge. Once there we found ourselves engulfed in a ‘surround-sound’ experience induced by the rhythmic pounding of waves crashing against rocks through Grade 5 rapids. We also found ourselves intimidated by the apparent way in which the vertiginous granite wall on the far side crouched over us to leave just a small slice of blue sky far above.

Following slow ascent back to the hotel we settled down to lunch, followed by brief Siesta. At 14:00hrs a few foolhardy souls (including myself) set off on our bikes, in blistering afternoon heat, to visit the narrowest section of the gorge. It is at this location that, according to local legend, a tiger leaped from one side to the other to escape the murderous arrows of a mythical hunter. Alas, the trip proved to be more arduous than envisaged, as aside to the heat, our legs were very fatigued and we found ourselves having to negotiate several steep inclines. However, our efforts were duly rewarded with fantastic views of raging waters being funnelled through an impossibly small outlet, with the resulting torrent creating an ear-splitting cacophony and a menacing vibration that weakened the knees.

Fortunately, sense rather than valour prevailed, and so we then opted to have Mr. Wong collect us in the minivan for the return journey to the Hotel. Dinner was another sumptuous feast, washed down with a few beers. As there was no electricity, there was no light pollution, except for the dim glow of candles. As eyes slowly adjusted to the dark, the heavens revealed a bright starry sky, with the Milky Way through the centre of our galaxy clearly visible. Against this backdrop, it was also possible to identify the occasional satelite in low earth orbit as it traversed the night sky.

Day 3 (09-May-2011) Lijiang - Tiger Leaping Gorge

We left the Hotel at 08:00hrs and were taken by bus to the entrance of Laojunshan National Park. Following 30 minute wait for the 2nd bus carrying our bikes to catch up we continued our journey into the park for the start of the day’s ride at a small reservoir. This very scenic location was mobbed by hundreds of Chinese tourists, queuing for a Yak ride across the river that empties over salt terraces into the reservoir and to have their photo taken in front of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, dressed in local costume.

The first 1.3km of the bike route rose gently up the side of a hill to the top of the valley, which afforded spectacular views over the entire national park. We then hurtled downhill along a winding road for 3.7km towards ‘hell on Earth’ – a 4.5km uphill ascent on cobble stones. Even with shock absorbers and gel saddles the ride proved debilitating, jarring teeth and crushing genitals alike. Indeed, only those with no genitals were able to progress at any speed – with Simon reaching the top of the next pass 30 minutes before anyone else! Andy on the other hand, known to those within his ‘circle of trust’ as The Man Called Horse, was last, feigning a puncture and a slipped chain to deflect suspicions that the family jewels packed a major hindrance....i.e. his meat and two veg were scrambled into bubble-and-squeak!

We then continued uphill for another 11.5km to the highest point of the day at 3280m (10761ft) for morning tea, after which we began an exhilarating 30km race to Daju at 1700m (5577ft). Cathy proved to be the most fearless, reaching a top speed of over 65km/hr. I and other mere mortals free-wheeled at more sedentary speeds in order to capture video and photos of the ever changing landscape and stunning terraced hills, cradling a vast plateau. The culmination was our first view of the raging Yangtze river. Collateral damage during the descent was quite minor, with only one puncture, a broken chain and one set of stuck front brakes.

Following a pleasant lunch at Daju we cycled to the edge of the plateau, which ends dramatically in a steep drop-off into a gorge etched by the Yangtze. We then handed our bikes to waiting porters and followed them on foot down the side of the gorge to a jetty at the bottom. Following short ferry ride across the river we then had to hike out the far side of the gorge, which proved very exhausting.

Reunited with our bikes we then cycled further 14km uphill to our final destination at Walnut Grove, along the famous Tiger Leaping Gorge; the deepest scar on the surface of the Earth. This last 14km sapped the will to live, with a strong biting headwind arresting our progress and reducing progress to a near crawl. However, perseverance ultimately paid off, with the team arriving at the Hotel just before 18:30hrs, having covered a total of 72km.

Day 2 (08-May-2011) Lijiang

Following early breakfast we departed the Hotel at 08:00hrs to be assigned our bikes and adjust settings. At 09:00hrs we departed on a short 45km acclimatisation tour to Yu Feng Monastery nestled in the foothills below Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, home to the southernmost glaciers in the northern hemisphere. The cool breeze and dry air on route was a complete and welcome contrast to the stifling humid conditions encountered on our last cycling expedition from Saigon to Angkor Wat. The outward leg along quiet backroads took us through Baisha, a small Naxi town famed for its Ginger tea. While we did not stop for tea, we did however take time out to listen to local music played by a Quartet – with Mitchell helping out on the cymbals.

We were then subjected to our first ‘moderate climb’ on the last 2km to the monastery. This left us all panting and weazing on arrival, with the thin air at the 2715m (8907ft) elevation making it impossible to curse, other than through an inner monologue. After a well earned tea break, we then entered the Buddhist monastery, which had miraculously survived the ravages of the Cultural Revolution. The incantations of the resident priests served to augment the austere yet peaceful setting .

The return journey to Lijiang was mostly downhill, but not without incident, with Mitchel managing to break the bike chain (and not for the first time), and Simon managing to wedge his bike in a plant box at the side of the road while we all took photographs of a statue of Mao Ze Dong. On arrival back at the starting point we dumped our bikes with our support team, Lee & Mr. Wong, and were then treated to a delicious Chinese banquet – the first of many.

With the rest of the day to ourselves we split up to visit number of other tourist and shopping destinations, before then reconvening at 19:30hrs for a Steamboat feast. Notwithstanding the fact that most found the concoction to be nothing more than a vial primordial soup, comprising extremophiles, char broiled in amino acids, garnished with diatomaceous RNA, and phalanxed by remnants of numerous failed evolutionary life forms, I at least found the meal to be very sumptuous!

Day 1 (07-May-2011) Singapore - Lijiang

Yunnan province in China is the most diverse in the country, both biologically as well as culturally. It is said to possess as much flowering plant diversity as the rest of the northern hemisphere put together. The province also accounts for only 4% of China’s surface area, but is home to half of China’s bird and animal wildlife. It is situated in the southwest of the country, and borders Laos, Burma and Vietnam. Ethnic minorities, some with historical links to these bordering countries, account for 34% of Yunnan’s population, but 50% of all the officially recognised ethnic groups in China. It’s capital Kunming assumed great strategic significance as the gateway for trade with the Indian subcontinent and Central Asia, and in more recent times as the terminus for the Burma Road.

Kunming was also to be our initial arrival destination for our next cycling adventure, organised again through Spice Roads. The Antipodean contingent flew into Singapore on various flights over the previous two days, with all expedition members arriving on time for check-in on the 03:00hrs flight to Kunming. We had hoped to check luggage all the way through to Lijiang, with tickets issued for both legs. Alas, this was not permitted, with everyone having to first clear Immigration and Customs in Kunming, and then check-in again for the domestic flight to Lijiang. With only two hours to spare between flights, I for one fretted over the possibility of missing the connecting flight through lengthy queues. However, to everyone’s pleasant surprise, we sailed through the various formalities, and found ourselves sitting down to a breakfast banquet at Kunming airport with an hour to spare.

The onward flight to Lijiang afforded us our first spectacular views of the Hengduan Shan mountain range. Our initial excitement however was immediately replaced by a sense of foreboding, as the sight of vertiginous winding roads through deep valleys and over giant peaks seemed to contrast greatly with the ‘moderately undulating’ description given to use by the expedition organisers. This thinly veiled perpetration of terminological inexactitudes left many fleeing for the emergency exits!

Having barely contained all-out panic, we disembarked at Lijiang’s brand new airport and were met by our expedition leader, Cathy, and her 2iC, Thai Chun. Given the newly anticipated arduous nature of our cycling expedition, we had expected to be met by someone with Tour de France credentials and huge lungs encased in a sinuous body atop Lawrence Dallaglio’s legs. We were thus utterly dismayed to discover that Cathy, a Chinese national, is half the size of Andy, a quarter of Simon’s weight, with calf muscles smaller than Darren’s wrists. However, in the days ahead, we learned the hard way not to underestimate her svelte diminutive frame and cute smile – Genghis Khan incited less fear than her cruel embrace.

The bone-shattering journey to the Hexi Hotel located in Lijiang’s Ancient Dayan Town district afforded us our first views of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, which was a pleasant distraction not only for us, but clearly for the city planners too, who had omitted to build a road connecting the new airport to the city. The rest of the day was spent exploring the Old Town, a UNESCO World Heritage site, that is a preserve of Naxi culture, art and architecture. A journey through this maze of canals and narrow streets far eclipses a tour through any overseas ‘China Towns’.

Day 13 (04-Jan-2011) Halls Gap - Melbourne

Following another 10km early morning run, we filled tummies with the last of our breakfast rations, and then departed on return trip to Melbourne. With yet another BBQ planned for the evening, we stopped off at yet another vineyard, for yet more wine. During the car journey, ears were again pinned to the radio to monitor England's progress at the SCG. Australia were still batting, but were steadily loosing wickets - come on England!!!

Close to Melbourne, N&N took the ring road back home, while Astrid & I continued into the town centre to drop off the rental car. Having arrived earlier than anticipated, and with the skies sunny and a cool breeze blowing, we opted to stroll through town and snap more photos. We then took the train back to Egelmont and spent rest of the afternoon glued to the TV watching the Ashes test at the SCG – an imperious start to England’s reply, with Cook and Strauss still at the wicket by stumps.

The evening BBQ with more of Nick’s friends was very pleasant, and an excellent way to end a memorable holiday. On arrival back in Singapore the following afternoon, I logged onto BBC World to discover Cook had amassed a huge score at the SCG, with England well on their way to achieving a record 1st innings total - a great achievement, and a great start to 2011!

Day 12 (03-Jan-2011) Halls Gap

Astrid & I awoke at 06:00hrs for hike up to The Pinnacles from Sundial car park, while N&N went for a run instead. The panorama from The Pinnacles so early in the morning was stunning, though a somewhat chilly experience also, given air temperatures were still below 10C. The lack of humidity and air pollution in this remote region made it possible to view landscapes more than 40km distant, into the flat golden farmlands beyond the Grampians.

Following a quick shower and breakfast, we all then headed off for a hike up Mt. Staplyton in the northern Grampians, a moderately strenuous hike, with again great views from the summit. On return to the car, we had a pleasant picnic lunch, before then heading over to Stawall, via Hwy 8, for more groceries. We then dropped by a vineyard for some wine tasting, with the elegant bouquet luring us into purchase of several large bottles - classical Pavlovian conditioning. Throughout the day, the tranquil setting was punctuated by loud riotous shouting each time Australia lost a wicket in the 1^st innings at the final Ashes test at the SCG, which was listened to intently on the radio.

Back in Halls Gap, though quite exhausted (and partially inebriated), Astrid & I then elected to go for one final hike; a circular route from the Brambuk NP and Cultural Centre. This proved to be the most exciting hike of all, involving numerous encounters with various wallabies, kangaroos, different bird species, and to cap it off, a very rare sighting of an echidna – huge wow factor! Fortuitously, Astrid had brought along her Canon D5 MKII, with a high powered lens fitted that would make the Hubble space telescope look decidedly short sighted. We thus managed to capture all on camera and camcorder.

Dinner was (another) sumptuous affair, washed down with some of the wine purchased earlier, leaving time free for the now ritual viewing of more Benidorm episodes.

Day 11 (02-Jan-2011) Lorne - Halls Gap

After (very) early morning 10km run along the coast, we returned for a quick breakfast. Then it was all hands on deck to tidy up the house so graciously loaned to us by John and Kirsty Henderson. We then saddled up for a pleasant cross country drive to Halls Gap in Grampians national park, via Cotac, Mortlake and Penshurst, before breaking north through the mountains at Dunkeld. The trip was interrupted for a pleasant picnic at Caramut, with the open roads, cool winds, cloudless skies and panoramic vistas stretching to the horizon in all directions a stark contrast to the humid, noisy and claustrophobic conditions back home in Singapore.

On arrival at our cabin in Halls Gap, our immediate priority was to provision up for the days ahead – which ostensibly involved a trip to the local liquor store only! During the walk back, we encountered some very cute wallabies, who were obviously very habituated to the presence of campers, and loved having their necks scratched just behind the ears. That said, when startled, the larger males quickly assume very aggressive upright postures, towering menacingly over unsuspecting onlookers.

While Nick prepared a sumptuous curry back at our cabin, the remainder of us drove up to Reed Lookout car park and then hiked the short route to The Balconies. Watching the sunset over the Wonderland Range in the central Grampians from this elevated vantage point, overhanging a large cliff face, was truly breathtaking, with songs and chatter from thousands of exotic birds filtering up on warm air thermals from the valley below.

On arrival back at the cabin we gorged on Nick’s curry, washed down with some local plonk, before finishing off the day with yet more episodes of Benidorm.

Day 10 (01-Jan-2011) The 12 Apostles

Following healthy breakfast we embarked on a days drive to see the ’12 Apostles’, a famous geological coastline feature close to Port Campbell, further west along the Great Ocean Road. We first stopped off at Cape Otway for tour inside the most famous light house in Australia, involving 10km detour along a track lined with eucalyptus trees full of koalas. For many emigrees making the 3-4 month perilous journey to Australia, the lighthouse was their first sight of land since departing England. Sadly, many ships ran aground along the notoriously dangerous coastline between Cape Otway and Torquay, drowning many within sight of a new life.

While the distance to Port Campbell is not great, the winding narrow coastal road meant driving conditions were more tortuous than the Monaco grand prix, delaying our arrival until mid afternoon. Journey time would have been much longer, were it not for the expletives hurled by Astrid at grandmothers and other cautious and gentile drivers holding up traffic. However, our efforts (and impatience) were magestically rewarded with fantastic views of solitary limestone monoliths carved out from the cliffs by wave action over many eons. The result speaks more to native legend than grinding geological processes.

To alleviate boredom on the return journey, we left the Great Ocean Road at Lavers Hill, passing through Beach Forrest and thence along an old logging road, through spectacular primary coastal woodland to Tanbryn and sharp right to Skenes Creek. We eventually reached Lorne early evening, after which we cooked dinner, and then watched a few more episodes of Benidorm